Camera setup - settings help

Covy · May 6, 2024

I've read a bit on the forums here, but still confused a bit on how to tweak the settings of each camera to optimal. I have not really done any settings adjustments for the most part (analysis paralysis, probably). Here is an example of my EmpireTech Cameras:

I have ready that 30FPS is overkill, so assume I should at least adjust that. And I heard about KEY, which I would like to understand and absolutely do not at all. I have no idea how to calculate that, but it seems important based upon discussions. Here is another camera that I have and its settings:

This one is an older Amcrest that I use in my garage.

And finally, the very much hated REOLink Cameras:

Right now my camera system is:
(2) IPC-Color4K-X-3.6MM - Side Yard and Basement Window
(1) Amcrest AD410 (doorbell) -Front Door
(1) Amcrest IP8M-T2669EW-AI - Garage Steps / Side Door (Inside Camera)
(2) Reolink RLC-510A - Basement Bar and Garage View

I'm also looking for at least 2 more cheap cameras (outdoor). I've looked based upon the MP/Sensor ratio diagram (love that) and am having a difficult time finding something in my range (which is REAL low at the moment). I really don't want to spend more than $100 per camera - we are on a very tight budget right now, but also summer is here and I want all areas of the house covered. 1 = teenagers, 2 = recent car break ins.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

wittaj · May 6, 2024

KEY is the ratio of FPS and iframes. You have FPS at 30 and iframes at 60, so your KEY would be 0.50

Yes, 15FPS and 15 iframes is all that is needed.

But that doesn't address that you will get motion blur. Still more to do:

In terms of getting the most out of the camera, here is my "standard" post that many use as a start for dialing in day and night that helps get the clean captures and help the camera recognize people and cars.

Start with:

H264
8192 bitrate
CBR
15FPS
15 iframes

Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.

We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.

In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.

Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.

Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.

Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.

You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image. But try not to go above 70 for anything and try to have contrast be at least 7-10 digits higher than brightness.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.

Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.

After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.

Covy · May 6, 2024

awesome, thank you. I have made some of those settings adjustments on the EmpireTech cameras and will do some testing today (and tonight at dark). I'll get my other cameras adjusted also.

looney2ns · May 6, 2024

You can get the Fixed lens version of cameras, if the focal length will work for your field of view for a little less money.
This can be had in 2.8mm, 3.6mm, and 6mm.