Camera locating, not easy as first thought...

JohnP274

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Having issues determining exact locations for my cameras as well as how to mount them to the home and still look pleasing and not like we live in a combat zone, lol. I believe the difficulty I'm having has to do with the fact the house has eves that don't extend past the sides of the house

I was originally thinking of posting two sets of pics - one with red dots for where I'm thinking of locating them and another without the dots so you can maybe see the issues I'm having but that will be too many photos, so I'm just sending the pics w/o dots.
 

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zero-degrees

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You have some challanges with this project.

You have potential on almost each side of the house if you can get cable to the proper location. If the house is on a crawl space this should make things a little easier if your comfortable with fiching lines from the crawl up into the walls, if your on a slab your either going to be running conduit outside somewhere or cutting drywall inside.

Either way cameras on front porch, garage doors, and possibly an over watch camera high on the front of the house to ID make and model of cars passing by during the day with something on that back door/deck as well.
 

JohnP274

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Have a full unfinished basement for a couple of months (2 or 3 - in process of finishing and will have sheetrock ceilings, ugh), but my real concern was how to mount the cameras without using large, ugly brackets.
 

zero-degrees

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If your using turrets you should be able to get by with no mounting boxes unless you don't want to drill 3/4 holes into the siding. If your willing to drill 3/4 holes you can tuck connectors and fittings back into the wall then seal the hole and calk around top half of camera for added protection. It all out skill and creativity.

For example a few weeks ago I needed two lines from the attic of a two story home into a crawl space. So I took the two lines from the attic over to a small walk in attic above a garage. From there I located an interior wall and drilled into it. Put my magnet from my magna pull in the wall. Went down to the first floor and pulled the magnet down to the base of that wall, pulled the carpet back and drilled a 1/32 hole in the floor by the baseboard and stick a single piece of cat 5 copper though it, got into the crawl found that micro scopic hole and copper then drilled up into the wall cavity 2 inches over, shoved a coat hanger up to hear the click of the magnet attaching and pulled down. Magically two lines from two floors above are in the crawl with no drywall cuts or damage to the home.

Spend some time looking at everything, over analyzing, and if your comfortable with hands on stuff like this you'll find a way to make this work and look great.
 

JohnP274

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So I'm a little confused. If I drill a hole in the sheathing of my house behind the siding and plan to run my CAT 6 behind the siding - won't that be too sharp of a bend on the CAT 6 ?

I'm not sure how to prevent to tight a bend on the exterior side of the house once I get the CAT 6 thru the sheathing and keep it behind the siding.
 

Kawboy12R

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Leave some slack on the far end. That way if the cable doesn't work and you are sure it's not the crimps on the hands, then you can look at that sharp bend as the next most likely place to be the failure, then pull some extra through and not have to rerun an entire cable. You will probably be okay though.
 

JohnP274

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Thanks Kawboy, probably over thinking it a bit but don't want to screw it up if I can help it. Also just reading about do's & don'ts with regards to CAT 6 ... said up to 90 degree bends are ok. I thought that was a problem, that's why I wrote post above.
 

Kawboy12R

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Odds are good it won't fail with a tight bend like that but leave some slack just in case. Then, if it's working perfectly for a bit then you can cut off the extra slack on the far end if you want and recrimp the right length.
 

JohnP274

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I can grill the hole on a slight angle too, so bend will be less than 90 degrees.
 
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