Camera Project #2 !! System Design Blue Iris NVR

CaliGirl

Getting comfortable
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
659
Reaction score
252
Location
California
My brother asked me to help him design and setup a camera system for his house. Wohoo

Looking for product recommendations, feedback and constructive criticism on this thread to design it. I had good success for my previous build and from many of you on here! Looking to build something similar, but improve upon it. I've read the Cliff Notes several times over.

1. Needs to mount flush and look clean, thinking Turrets mounted on a junction box on stucco walls
2. Needs to detect movement for intruders well in BI software
3. Needs to be semi easy to install since this will be DIY and we have very little experience running the cable
4. CPU needs to handle 9+ cameras
5. There is a very bright LED street light in the culdesac that should help at night
6. Looking at Dahua and Hikivision (never tried hiki)
7. Budget about $1,500 for cameras, CPU, POE switch, cables
8. Trying to keep the cameras mounted below 8 ft (better recognition) except on one camera
9. Would like to mount BI machine and switch in the garage to avoid attic work and keep things simple, we can run 6 camera's cabling via the garage ceiling exposed and easy to get to.
10. Doesn't really want cameras peering down in the pool, at least up close since its an invasion of privacy for his guests, wish there was a way to cover them up when guest come over said.
11. No way to hard wire the BI CPU to the router, will need to be wifi 5ghz, strong signal avail
12. Very much struggling with how to run cat 5 to the back of the house. Access via the attic but no easy way to get it down lower that we can think of. No basement. Any ideas here? Would be great to have a camera on the back fence looking back at the house, but not sure how to get a cable to this location.


QUESTIONS for Stage1:

1. What are the latest Dahua and HIKI turret offerings that have decent low light and excellent daylight image quality? Varifocal wanted if a viable option. Easier to install and get dialed in. Should I forgo 4mp and get 2mp on this system? I have 4mp on the last project and I feel like I never get to use the extra resolution bc the BI bogs down or needs to be reduced for remote viewing. Just cumbersome. A fairly bright front driveway at night with the LED street light. The backyard is dark at night. Everywhere I look lately from modern hotels to model homes I am seeing Hikivision turrets.....

2. What do you recommend for a good 9+ POE switch?

3. Anything I need to determine before moving onto to stage B? What am I not thinking about?

(stage B will decide what BI CPU computer and cabling)
 

Attachments

bp2008

Staff member
Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
12,666
Reaction score
14,005
Location
USA
I know Dahua has a 4MP starlight coming up, but other than that I know nothing about it. Not when they'll be available or their price or their performance.

These are the popular 2MP starlight.
White: http://amzn.com/B07B7K1P28
Black: http://amzn.com/B07JHSHRK2

There is a cheaper version where the only difference that really matters for Blue Iris is that the cheaper model doesn't have a built-in microphone: http://amzn.com/B07DRC93S8

For a switch this would probably be appropriate: http://amzn.com/B01MQHD54L
If you want a managed switch instead there is this: http://amzn.com/B0721V1TGV
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.

bp2008

Staff member
Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
12,666
Reaction score
14,005
Location
USA
There are also some low-cost 8 megapixel (4K) cameras that do okay in low light. Not as well as the 2MP starlights, but substantially better than your older 4MP models. These aren't available in turret form unfortunately so may be a little more trouble with spiders and other bugs.

2.8mm lens: http://amzn.com/B07KQ4Z4QP
4mm lens: http://amzn.com/B07FP5HHSQ
6mm lens: http://amzn.com/B07NVK3DNG
varifocal lens: http://amzn.com/B07FP4P8PZ

This one has white light LED: http://amzn.com/B07MH42JTX

With any of these cameras, @EMPIRETECANDY may be able to offer a better price if you buy straight through him so he doesn't have to pay an aliexpress/amazon fee on the sale.

Do be aware that 8 MP cameras are much more CPU-intensive for Blue Iris so if you were going to install more than a few of them you might need to pay a lot more for a stronger CPU.
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.

Kameraad

Pulling my weight
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
162
Reaction score
136
I think you really want to run a cable to the BI PC, wifi is gonna give you trouble. If not now then certainly later..
 

TonyR

IPCT Contributor
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
16,442
Reaction score
38,158
Location
Alabama
11. No way to hard wire the BI CPU to the router, will need to be wifi 5ghz, strong signal avail
I'd suggest instead of Wi-Fi using this: TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT)

I had it's older, slower cousin running from my switch to a cam over the garage with no access for almost 6 years before lightning got it. It ran flawlessly until then and was a lot more dependable than any Wi-Fi cam I've ever been around.
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.

TonyR

IPCT Contributor
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
16,442
Reaction score
38,158
Location
Alabama
Looking at the aerials as well, it appears you might be able to use those gutter downspouts to hide cable behind and originate from your attic, then hide under trim.
Be sure to use CAT-5e or 6 that is outdoor-rated for exposure to moisture and UV; hiding it behind the gutter and the side away from the west or south would be best also.

If you decide that highest cam is too high (it very well may be), you could come out of attic wall between that vertical chimney and the other downspout and come down to a box a better height of 7 ft. between downspoutand chimney.

caligirl_small8.jpg
 

CaliGirl

Getting comfortable
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
659
Reaction score
252
Location
California
Ok, making good headway on this project. Thanks for all the great suggestions.

We ordered the POE adapter. Reviews were pretty good and reliability is important over wifi. Thanks for the idea. I forgot about those. We got the managed TPLINK switch bc it was available fast and a name brand I have had good success with…

Looking into the wire options using the downspouts. Never even thought of that idea. What do you guys use for securing cat 5 to the walls inside the garage and on the outside of the stucco house? I have leftover exterior grade cable from the last project you to use outside.

We got the IPC-HDW5231R-ZE and a IPC-HDW2231R-ZS and started testing them at the locations he wants to mount. They performed pretty close to each other but we realized it is nice to have the mic should we need it down the road.

Other than these two cameras, really struggling to find a more basic starlight that is available on amazon or aliex that won’t take 25 days. The bullet cameras suggested are great, however he is stuck on turret cameras for aesthetic reasons. They look less intimidating and not as noticeable on a nice house. No one else really has exterior cameras not the street, so trying to make it not look like a fortress.

Driveway will have two 2mp Varifocal Starlights each mounted criss cross around 8ft. up

We need more basic 2.8mm 2-4mp turrets for the front door, side gate and backyard with audio. Starlight preferred but I suppose not a requirement if night vision is decent. Any suggestions here that are available to ship in a week or so? I feel like the $176 varifocal starlights would be overkill for those locations and it would better to use that money for other items in the project.
 

CaliGirl

Getting comfortable
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
659
Reaction score
252
Location
California
What does the community think of using the highpoint on the side of the house to install a small PTZ 12x dome to be used to look around, enjoy the view and stream it on their TV? I know @nayr always says dont put a dome outside. But this would be in the shade almost all day and very little direct sunlight. US $320.0 5% OFF|Aliexpress.com : Buy SD42212T HN( S2) 2MP 12x Starlight PTZ Network Camera without Logo SD42212T HN , free DHL shipping from Reliable camera ip66 suppliers on Empire Technology Co., Ltd
 

CaliGirl

Getting comfortable
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
659
Reaction score
252
Location
California
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.

bp2008

Staff member
Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
12,666
Reaction score
14,005
Location
USA
http://amzn.com/B07L8SBB4V This is the fixed lens starlight model which is cheaper and still keeps a built-in microphone. You can talk to @EMPIRETECANDY about ordering several, to make sure they are in stock and will arrive quickly. (he may also be able to offer other lens sizes not listed on amazon: 2.8mm, 3.6mm, or 6mm). He ships via DHL and things tend to arrive in 2 or 3 days all the way from China.
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.

Sybertiger

Known around here
Joined
Jun 30, 2018
Messages
4,538
Reaction score
13,066
Location
Orlando
I had the same problem of not being able to easily run an ethernet line from the BI system to the router so I used a powerline ethernet adapter. You can read about it HERE. I currently have 120Mbps internet speed and that's the speed I'm getting through the powerline adapter but the connection wizard currently shows that the connection is theoretically capable of over 800Mbps.

 
Last edited:

Sybertiger

Known around here
Joined
Jun 30, 2018
Messages
4,538
Reaction score
13,066
Location
Orlando
120 Mbps...that's what I'm getting from the cable company. The adapter is supposedly a 2Gbps system but that's ideal lab setup and not expected from a typical house. The adapter config tool is reporting an 800Mbps connection but I'll never find out with my internet service...but 120Mbps is already overkill for what I do.
 

CaliGirl

Getting comfortable
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
659
Reaction score
252
Location
California
Thanks for the heads up. We ordered the 2000 model as you suggested in the other thread. $95 isn’t cheap but if that link is weak or slow, it will bog down the entire system. Can’t wait to try it out. Been relying on a $20 WiFi adapter to the switch while we set everything up.

I’m getting a bit lost on the networking. That have an Eero WiFi system that works amazing. But there’s no way to do normal networking inside the device which is 192.168.7.1. So we piggy backed it to an ASUS WiFi router running 192.168.1.1. So if you have a device connected to EEro, it can’t find it on the local network. Must be connected to the weaker asus WiFi to find the POW switch and cameras. Need to find a way to streamline that part better.
 

TonyR

IPCT Contributor
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
16,442
Reaction score
38,158
Location
Alabama
What do you guys use for securing cat 5 to the walls inside the garage and on the outside of the stucco house?
I use these mounting clips, mostly the single, black version from Steren. They are also available from other vendors in white, grey and for a double cable. I prefer the single, I can stretch tight then run it down with a cordless driver. You can use a Philips bit or 1/4" hex head driver bit, IMO the 1/4" hex head driver bit works the best.

They drive right into wood. For stucco, cement siding (like Hardishake) or brick grout, get a kit of the plastic push-in plastic anchors that come with a masonry drill bit that matches the clip's included screw size...I think the bit is 1/4". Drill your holes, push in the plastic anchor, put the cable into the clip, put the clip's screw into the anchor, tighten to suit. I pull the cable tight with one hand before I tighten with the driver, work in the direction where slack can be hidden or cut.

I put the cable nearest the groove or protective moulding with the screw more outward/exposed (hard to explain what I mean here).

I use the black, UV-resistant nylon wire ties, usually about 8" length, to add a second cable or assist with drip loops, etc. I feel like I can pull 2 cables tighter in parallel using the single clip than I can if I use the double clip....YMMV.


Steren_200-963BK.jpg
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.

CaliGirl

Getting comfortable
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
659
Reaction score
252
Location
California
Hey guys. I’m having issues with my brothers Wi-Fi routers. They have an Eero mesh network AND an ASUS WiFi router.

Modem> EEro > Asus > TP Link switch is how it’s plugged in.

Problem lies in that Eero is running at 192.168.7.1 while the Asus is running as 192.168.1.1 as well as the TP Link POE Switch.

The Asus is there bc it allows the normal port forwarding im used to and other custom networking options. The Eero doesn’t have all those items, it’s much more basic but does have port forwarding menu. But very powerful and very fast. They get good reception through the whole house with it. I do see that Eero has a “bridge mode” option. Would that mean make the Asus router the main guy, then piggy back an Ethernet port to the Eero and fast Internet will be shared through the house? Or put the Asus into bridge mode? And I can still apply all port forwarding in the Asus?

1. Should we plug things in differently?
2. Should we make the Asus match the eero ip?
3. Any YouTube videos threads or documentation on how to do all of this?

Thank you!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 3, 2015
Messages
3,791
Reaction score
12,182
Location
Charlotte
Hey guys. I’m having issues with my brothers Wi-Fi routers. They have an Eero mesh network AND an ASUS WiFi router.

Modem> EEro > Asus > TP Link switch is how it’s plugged in.

Problem lies in that Eero is running at 192.168.7.1 while the Asus is running as 192.168.1.1 as well as the TP Link POE Switch.

The Asus is there bc it allows the normal port forwarding im used to and other custom networking options. The Eero doesn’t have all those items, it’s much more basic but does have port forwarding menu. But very powerful and very fast. They get good reception through the whole house with it. I do see that Eero has a “bridge mode” option. Would that mean make the Asus router the main guy, then piggy back an Ethernet port to the Eero and fast Internet will be shared through the house? Or put the Asus into bridge mode? And I can still apply all port forwarding in the Asus?

1. Should we plug things in differently?
2. Should we make the Asus match the eero ip?
3. Any YouTube videos threads or documentation on how to do all of this?

Thank you!
Typically, you'd put the Eero in bridge mode, and allow the Asus to be your primary router. Bridge mode is essentially a dumb, 100% pass-through mode. You'd use it in cases exactly like this, where you want a more flexible and capable device connected behind it.

1. Should we plug things in differently?
No, no need to re-arrange things.

2. Should we make the Asus match the eero ip?
There should not be any need to do so.

3. Any YouTube videos threads or documentation on how to do all of this?
Bridge mode is typically used with combo modem/router units dispensed from ISPs. Search for "cable modem bridge mode" and you should find forum threads elsewhere with descriptions of it.
 
Last edited:
Top