12V power through Cat5e?

[mik]

I have ran 2 cat5e cables to where i'd like to install a PTZ camera - this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Security-30x-IR-2-Megapixel-HD-PTZ-Mini-Onvif-IP-Camera/32281787873.html. I initially pulled both wires thinking i'd only need one (installing a standard POE IP camera) and use the other wire for backup, but in looking at this new PTZ, i'm hoping to be able to use the other wire as the power source for the PTZ. My plan is to use 3 wires each from the cat5e as positive and 3 for the negative. I'm using non stranded wire so I'm hoping it will have the ability to do this with no issues. The length of wire is probably 100'.

Anyone done this before? I can't run the other 12v wire as i've already buried the cable.

Thoughts?

 

[unbahlievable]

It should work but the only potential issue is voltage drop. Calculate what it will look like at the other end of the cable given the camera's maximum power draw and see if it's still within operating spec. 100' is really 200' of wire distance

The other option is running 48V poe with a poe power converter/splitter at the far end to regulate it down to 12V

 

[Q™]

This do-dad may help you mik. I use one of these to run power to a non-poe wireless access point way out in our warehouse and it's been running for several years with zero issues. With one of these widgets one simply plugs the device power brick/adapter into one end and the power comes out the other end and plugs into your device. It runs over Cat5 or 6 cable...

Adapter Injector Power over Ethernet Passive + Splitter Kit 5v 12v 24v 48v

 

[Zorac]

This do-dad may help you mik. I use one of these to run power to a non-poe wireless access point way out in our warehouse and it's been running for several years with zero issues. With one of these widgets one simply plugs the device power brick/adapter into one end and the power comes out the other end and plugs into your device. It runs over Cat5 or 6 cable...

Adapter Injector Power over Ethernet Passive + Splitter Kit 5v 12v 24v 48v

View attachment 6185

i use those too, running 75' with 12v and data using them for a camera (no ir on it though, so the draw is probably lower). have shorter runs that are powering ir cameras too.

 

[unbahlievable]

Here's the link to what I was referring. It works well

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

Note this is spec'd to only output 12W @12V, 9W@9V, and 10W @ 5VDC, post DC-DC conversion.

Hope this helps!

 

[Q™]

i use those too, running 75' with 12v and data using them for a camera (no ir on it though, so the draw is probably lower). have shorter runs that are powering ir cameras too.

That is an excellent device unbahlievable, but it only delivers 802.3af compliant power over ethernet. However, if 802.3af compliant poe is what one needs then that is a very good solution.

The advantage of the device I posted earlier is that it delivers the precise type of power that you put into it (the power it delivers is driven by the power adapter you utilize to feed it).

The downside of the device I posted earlier is certainly that a $3.00 device cannot be of the best build quality

Furthermore, if one is going to use a single-line poe injector then one may want to instead consider using an inexpensive 4-port poe switch which provides the option to power 3 more additional cameras at a later date if needed.

Alternatively, "the IEEE's 802.3at standard, known as POE Plus, aims to provide a much-needed boost to the existing 15-watt 802.3af standard. It should provide 30 watts, enough for many devices that currently demand dedicated AC power runs"...

http://www.networkcomputing.com/wireless-infrastructure/a-look-at-poe-plus/d/d-id/1223359?

 

[Tinman]

The link to the cam states that cam uses 38w total @ 12v. I don't think your cable will run this. I have attached a pic with the specs plugged in and it recommends 10awg wire. But here is a link to calculator if you want to dbl check.

http://www.bulkwire.com/wireresistance.asp

 

[Q™]

The link to the cam states that cam uses 38w total @ 12v. I don't think your cable will run this. I have attached a pic with the specs plugged in and it recommends 10awg wire. But here is a link to calculator if you want to dbl check.

http://www.bulkwire.com/wireresistance.asp

Good post Tinman!

It is possible that the manufacturer *may* have overstated the power requirements of the Huisun DM-RDC205FHPT-KS20HB-W1 unit (which has referred to in the OP). This was indeed the case for another (Huisun?) model which a member put a meter on and was able to confirm that the camera drew much less power than the camera spec said was required...but I'm afraid I can't locate the post I am referring to. :-(

 

[Tinman]

Good post Tinman!

It is possible that the manufacturer *may* have overstated the power requirements of the Huisun DM-RDC205FHPT-KS20HB-W1 unit (which has referred to in the OP). This was indeed the case for another (Huisun?) model which a member put a meter on and was able to confirm that the camera drew much less power than the camera spec said was required...but I'm afraid I can't locate the post I am referring to. :-(

Thanks, that may be case.

It can depend what type of cat5 wire he is using as well. I have twisted 4 of the cat5 wires together making one pair to carry power before. The cable I was using was 24 awg solid copper and I am sure that would handle the power.

 

[Q™]

...The cable I was using was 24 awg solid copper and I am sure that would handle the power.

Yikes...I recently bought a spool of Shireen CC-1021 outdoor shielded solid copper cable recently and that stuff is so tough I think I could run it from my 9500 watt generator to my circuit panel!

(jus' kiddin' I assure you)

 

[Tinman]

That looks like some fun cable to work with

 

[Q™]

That looks like some fun cable to work with

It actually wasn't Tinman. Because it is thicker and more rigid than other cable I've worked with it was a pain in the ass to pull it...but I'm confident that I'd be dead and that cable will still be functioning because that cable is built like a tank!

 

[mik]

First off, thanks all for the help, this forum is damn awesome... So, my plan is to use the power supply that comes with the camera. I had done some research and i thought i had seen that cat5e can transmit 65w total? Here's some pics of the wire I've used.

 

[unbahlievable]

My bad... I missed the 38W requirement from the camera. All 4 24AWG twisted pairs used together is about the same as a single pair of 18AWG. 3 pairs twisted together is about the same as a 20AWG pair. Feeding 12V on the end of 100ft (times 2) will probably work at light loads, but if the camera decides to draw 38W instantaneously, the voltage will drop significantly, probably out of the camera's spec.

The 65W number you're quoting is likely from the uPoE spec which doubles up on standard 802.3at by using all 4 pairs for data/power and drives 54V. It's typically regulated downwards at the PD at the far end so line loss is transparent, so actual usable power is a tad less. It isn't commonly found in consumer equipment (yet...to my knowledge).

My suspicion is you probably have no choice but to run a separate 110V AC line out there :-(

 

[mik]

Well....damn

 

[korakora]

mik hello, I also had that speed dome camera but 2MP models
My suggestion was to wear with 802.3af compliant POE Splitter
I had once with a distance of 5 meters almost 1/2 volt of voltage drop, you can calculate how much LOSS voltage with the distance that you'll need if not wearing poe splitter


voltage drop without poe splitter (5 meters cat5)



Now I wear poe splitter like this, a distance of 20 meters OSD stay on 12v Info

 

[CamFan]

Not so fast.

You need to deliver 38 watts at 12V plus or minus 10%, which gives you a range of 10.8V to 13.2V.

Worst case is you need to deliver 3.5 Amps (38W/10.8V) at the lowest voltage.

So using the bulk cable calculator, put in 3.5 A and 13.2V.

14AWG will droop to 11.4V at 200 ft.

If it were me, I'd use a 36VDC supply and a 50W DC/DC converter with a 18-36 V input with 12V output.



Edit: oops, drop was for one way. This calculator is better.

Http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=20.95&voltage=13.2&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=100&distanceunit=feet&amperes=3.5&x=68&y=16