I need the multi pin cable for a DS-2DF8223I-AELW the idea of hanging off the side of a parapet wall 20 feet in the air and making a splices in not to appealing to me at all.
thanks mike
thanks mike
any Hikvision pro series dealers on here? I need a cable
- Thread starter Coldair
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Bueller? anyone at home?
tangent
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It's probably easiest to take the camera down and then reinstall. If I were splicing something like this I'd use skotchloks http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/313619O/3m-scotchlok-family-brochure.pdf
Good advice, I think I would also dismount it, repair and re-mount. If I were to fall off a ladder these days they'd have to sweep me up with a broom and a dustpan!
Those 3M Scothloks are great, I have used a boatload on POTS lines but I'm fairly certain all the ones with sealant are for solid wire only, not stranded.
I'm thinking of trying these myself (below) and ==>> here. They use a standard crimp (where stranded IS recommended) but they have heat-activated adhesive inside and a heat shrink collar at the ends. You would need a standard heat gun.
I'm a little leery of some I saw another forum member posted a while back that are also supposed to be waterproof inline splices BUT a heat gun is used to "melt" the solder! I'm sorry...I can't trust anything that claims to be provide a solid "solder" connection, mechanically and electrically, with a standard heat gun.
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tangent
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They also aren't great for data connections with twisted pairs. The description of needing a "multi-pin cable" is pretty ambiguous. There are gel filled b-splice crimp connectors that are gel filled and work with stranded cable, also not so great for data connections.
I know what I'd be doing...shrink tubing, inline manual wire twist-together, 60/40 rosin-core solder @ 700 degrees F with my Weller iron, then pull the shrink tubing over and shrink it. More work but time-proven and reliable. I just don't know other people's skill set or ability.
Depending on the number of conductors, I may have a large piece of shrink tubing slid on first that when all the conductors above are done, I'd slide that big one over all and shrink it last. BUT.....if I was planning to put on that overall large piece, I'd seriously consider staggering those multiple shrink-solder connections so they'd lay nice next to each other so the final piece wouldn't make it look like a python swallowed a goat.
maybe a little more information on the cable would help, I am looking for the 16 pin flat ribbon cable that is used for audio in and out, alarms 1,2,3, in and out and a few others connections like tamper alarms in and out. i know that I can use scotch locks, solderless connectors or heat shrink. The problem is the camera sits on a pole out by the street surrounded by big trees and needs to be taken down for storms and put back up. instead of clipping wires and then redoing them while standing on a 10 foot ladder in sugar sand every time we have a tropical storm coming it would be so cool to just unplug the cables and take down the camera then when the storm passes put it right back up in 5 minutes. for some reason the shipper had removed the cable from the box and I have not been successful in getting that part or a part number. I would gladly pay for the cable so that removal of the camera could be done in less than 2 minutes instead of trying to fight mosquitoes and other bugs for an half an hour or more in 100 degree heat
Well now that you've described your issue and what you'd like to do, not only does it make perfect sense it may aid someone in making a suggestion.
It sounds like you need a male to female, weatherproof, 16 circuit connector that you un-thread, and put a dummy plug in the cam's place to protect the left-behind connector from the elements until you re-mount after the storm.
It sounds like you need a male to female, weatherproof, 16 circuit connector that you un-thread, and put a dummy plug in the cam's place to protect the left-behind connector from the elements until you re-mount after the storm.
AMP/ Tyco Electronics makes a 16 circuit, circular plastic connector that screws together. You could use self-fusing rubber tape where wires enter at rear of clamp, over connector body up to the part that spins to unscrew, cover tightly with 3M 33+ or 88 until the self-fusing tape cures (but leave on). Do that to BOTH male-female halves. After the male-female connectors are screwed together and all tests good, you could put another self-fusing with 33+ or 88 setup that covers close to the above tape job, over the part that screws, and over to the other half, stopping short of the other tape job. This way, when you go back to unscrew and pull down the cam, you slice with a knife only the band of self-fusing rubber tape with 33+/88 that covers the middle, leaving the 2 outside tape jobs intact. When you return the cam and re-mate the 2 halves, you only have to re-do the middle tape job.
Yes, some work initially but it should last a long time.
I did a similar thing using the same AMP CPC (Circular Plastic Connector) in CA circa 1984 to a weather-proof an outdoor mechanical sign that had to be taken down and repaired every 2 or 3 years. The only diff was it was about 8 circuits, I think. I pulled down twice in 6 years and both times I saw no corrosion. If only wish that @#$% sign had been worth a crap.
Yes, some work initially but it should last a long time.
I did a similar thing using the same AMP CPC (Circular Plastic Connector) in CA circa 1984 to a weather-proof an outdoor mechanical sign that had to be taken down and repaired every 2 or 3 years. The only diff was it was about 8 circuits, I think. I pulled down twice in 6 years and both times I saw no corrosion. If only wish that @#$% sign had been worth a crap.