The jerk even gave you a sporting chance by looking directly up at the camera. As mentioned already though, it's your shutter speed that's the problem. Most cams have "auto" mode set for too slow a shutter speed for moving targets, ESPECIALLY at night. That includes cameras that COULD have a great image at even faster shutter speeds. It makes the background look nice (I bet that sells more cameras than images with some noise) but moving targets are uselessly blurred. That makes manual control, particularly at night, almost essential. Also, add more light. That'll give you back the sharpness you had at a slower shutter speed while cutting way down on the motion blur.
And what did you mean by having BI set at 1440? I expect you mean 1440P (4mp) resolution for the camera. Changing that won't change the blur, just give you less pixels in your picture. Adding enough light so that you can force the camera to run a faster shutter speed while still having a clean picture is what you need to do. Even crappy cameras can usually be tweaked to give a good picture at night if you can add lots more light than is needed by a "starlight" cam unless the firmware is completely useless. With a 4mp sensor and a night image that clean, that Reolink was running a seriously slooooow shutter speed in that video.
I've got one of the Dahua starlight varifocal turrets watching my car. I still need to force it to 1/60th at night to speed up the shutter a bit for my liking for the given lighting but it'll do auto in the day and it's smart enough to freeze passing cars on the road behind it on a cloudy day. The cheapo Dahuas and other cams set to auto generally require full sunlight to freeze a vehicle unless you manually force them to 1/500 or faster. The default noise reduction on the starlight was too aggressive though so I turned it down to help give more detail on moving targets. You know SOMETHING is set wrong for moving targets even with a good cam when the background is nice and sharp at night unless you have TONS of light.
