Dahua 4MP IP Camera setting look poor
- Thread starter RDB85
- Start date
I will give that a try.
From the NVR and I also have DMSS installed. I’ve noticed that I can’t have all the cameras on the Mainstream.
Those pictures seem ok, but I would drop the FPS down to 15. Movies are shot at 24FPS and we don't need more than that on our TV and mobile devices. Most here run at 10-15FPS. These are not Hollywood movies we are making. The purpose is to get a clean still image. Shutter speed is much more important than FPS.
It looks like your NVR is limiting your bitrate, so now have the bitrate being spread over 25FPS instead of 15FPS. The picture will get better with the same bitrate at 15FPS. Can you not go to 8192 bitrate?
Now you do have some problematic views with those big objects reflecting infrared and messing with the exposure, but that is a different story.
It looks like your NVR is limiting your bitrate, so now have the bitrate being spread over 25FPS instead of 15FPS. The picture will get better with the same bitrate at 15FPS. Can you not go to 8192 bitrate?
Now you do have some problematic views with those big objects reflecting infrared and messing with the exposure, but that is a different story.
The garden furniture was added at a later date. They maybe getting moved. If I drop it to 15fps then I only 4096 as the highest bitrate. Change it to 25 fps and it’s 6144 but then I lose on getting a full months recording.
Anything that needs changing on the Image to improve it?
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looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
When you have the quad screen displayed on your tv, you are viewing substreams from the cameras.
In the substream portion of settings.
Depending on the cameras, you can try to select Substream 2, instead of 1.
This will allow you to choose higher resolution and a higher bitrate for the substream.
In the dropdown for bitrate, see if there is a "custom" selection, if so, then choose it, then manually type in a higher bitrate.
In the substream portion of settings.
Depending on the cameras, you can try to select Substream 2, instead of 1.
This will allow you to choose higher resolution and a higher bitrate for the substream.
In the dropdown for bitrate, see if there is a "custom" selection, if so, then choose it, then manually type in a higher bitrate.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
Leaving cameras at their default settings, like it appears you have, will never give the best performance from the camera.
Each camera needs to adjusted for it's field of view for best results.
It's also best to make any and all adjustments to camera settings, directly in the camera's setup interface, not in the NVR.
Sometimes settings from the NVR do not get synced to the camera properly.
paul@austins.tv
Getting comfortable
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Turn off the not so smart "smart codec". And as others have stated, up the bit rate for the main recording stream. Then take Wittaj's advise on fine tuning the camera for optimal exposure/image settings for the location views.
How did you mean the Camera settings?
You do not want to run these cameras on auto/default settings. When the perp comes by in the middle of the night, auto settings will fail you. That is not as good as it gets.
Here is my "standard" post that many use as a start for dialing in day and night that helps get the clean captures. These are done within the camera GUI thru a web browser.
Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.
We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
Here is my "standard" post that many use as a start for dialing in day and night that helps get the clean captures. These are done within the camera GUI thru a web browser.
Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.
We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
So I need to leave smart codec on? In an old post I’ve taken a photo of my cameras that I have with the model etc.