Looking for off-grid NVR/PoE IP camera solution

Lass

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We lose power for days on end when strong coastal storms blow through. I am looking for an NVR/PoE IP camera setup that can run off 12 volt LiFePO4 batteries. The batteries will be maintained using 12 VDC portable solar panels and a small wind turbine. Seems like most NVR’s are 48 VDC. HOA rules do not allow portable generators or permanent solar panels. Wind turbine can only be used at night then taken down in the morning, so battery power is key. Have to be discrete. I am an amateur radio operator so 12 volt batteries are standard equipment. I am considering the Hikvision DS-MP5604N (9-32 VDC) but it’s huge money just for the NVR. But it is compatible with many different cameras which is a bonus. I was considering pairing the DS-MP5604N with 4 Reolink RCL-811A’s bc I want IR cameras. The 811A’s are inexpensive and have pretty good nighttime video quality. Would appreciate suggestions regarding if I’m going about this the right way or any other 12 volt battery compatible systems I haven’t discovered yet. I’m a newbie!
 

wittaj

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You have a lot to learn LOL....

It is best to match camera brand to NVR brand to ensure compatibility. Reolinks work "best" with only Reolink NVRs and would likely struggle with the Hik NVR...

If you want to use different camera brands, then you need to consider a computer based solution like Blue Iris.

Reolinks give HORRIBLE night time quality....well they do give a great static image, but motion is a complete blur/ghost/invisible. If you only care about what time something happened, then go for it LOL...But if you want to be able to IDENTIFY who did it, look elsewhere...

What Reolink makes up in for static image quality (and the static image is what almost every NOOB gets fascinated with), they lack when it comes to motion at night...

What you mean a missing hand isn't normal LOL :lmao:




1643481441182.png





How about missing everything but the head and upper torso :lmao:

The invisible man, where can he be. Thank goodness he is carrying around a reflective plate to see where he is LOL (hint - the person is literally in the middle of the image at the end of the fence)

I've seen better images on an episode of ghost hunters :lmao:




1643488485807.png





And of course, this is an example from Reolink's marketing videos - do you see a person in this picture...yes, there is a person in this picture.... Could this provide anything useful for the police other than the date and time something happened? Would this protect your home? The still picture looks great though except for the person and the blur of the vehicle... Will give you a hint - the person is in between the two columns:




1642215852060.png




Bad Boys
Bad Boys
Watcha gonna do
Watcha gonna do
When the camera can't see you


See the "master" thread full of people getting burned on Reolink cameras....

 

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Lass

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You're more likely to find a 12VDC NVR if it's not POE and then you can also run most cams on 12VDC as well.
Just an example, it's powered by an external 12VDC @ 2.0 amp power supply.==>> Amcrest NV4108-HS 4K 8CH NVR (1080p/3MP/4MP/5MP/6MP/8MP) Network Video Recorder - Supports up to 8 x 4K (8MP) IP Cameras @30fps, Supports up to 6TB HDD (Not Included) (No Built-in WiFi) 2020 Version
Thanks so much for the info and the link! I didn’t even realize I was approaching this whole thing the wrong way. So most of the NVR’s seem to use PoE. How do I go about searching for NVR’s that do not have PoE and are 12 volt? Seems like it’s looking for a needle in a haystack when I look online
 
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sebastiantombs

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I'd just drop an email to Andy, forum member and Dahua/Hikvision supplier. He can answer your question probably right off the top of his head. Any decent surveillance camera that I've seen will run on 12VDC or PoE. I know that Dahua make many non PoE NVRs but I don't know what their power requirements are, so check with Andy.

Email
Andy Wang kingsecurity2014@163.com
 

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See video for ideas. The inverter used is a grid tie inverter but since you are going off grid you are looking for an inverter without this feature to power a mains powered NVR / CCTV set up.

Note a disadvantage of the grid tie version is that it will not provide back up power in the event of a power outage. This is a built in safety feature to prevent you back feeding into the grid and frying a utility worker.

Good luck

 

concord

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Step-up transformer 12v to 48v?


Or aligin your batteries to output 48v?
 
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Teken

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We lose power for days on end when strong coastal storms blow through. I am looking for an NVR/PoE IP camera setup that can run off 12 volt LiFePO4 batteries. The batteries will be maintained using 12 VDC portable solar panels and a small wind turbine. Seems like most NVR’s are 48 VDC. HOA rules do not allow portable generators or permanent solar panels. Wind turbine can only be used at night then taken down in the morning, so battery power is key. Have to be discrete. I am an amateur radio operator so 12 volt batteries are standard equipment. I am considering the Hikvision DS-MP5604N (9-32 VDC) but it’s huge money just for the NVR. But it is compatible with many different cameras which is a bonus. I was considering pairing the DS-MP5604N with 4 Reolink RCL-811A’s bc I want IR cameras. The 811A’s are inexpensive and have pretty good nighttime video quality. Would appreciate suggestions regarding if I’m going about this the right way or any other 12 volt battery compatible systems I haven’t discovered yet. I’m a newbie!
Here are some things to consider as you walk down this path. If this is a serious installation the appropriate amount of finances must be invested in the same. Everything you consider must be spec'd to work and integrate with one another as this will reduce wasted time, resources, and finances.

Given you live in a HOA which makes no sense to me what so ever as you already know the extreme limits applied to you. It makes little sense in investing and employing a solar / wind powered system. If for no other reason just to have one or where its a SHTF scenario. And in that case I'm pretty sure the HOA or anyone else isn't going to be ringing your bell to tell you - you're in breach of some Nazi covenant / bylaw! :facepalm: :lmao:

Regardless of the above here are some basics to consider as this will directly relate to over all costs, human risks, and electrical impact.

Running a 48 VDC battery system is more efficient and better than any 12 VDC setup. The advantages are smaller diameter wires, longer distances, less current / amperage, and less conversion. Even if you used a step down converter to 24-12 VDC you're still further ahead than if using a 12 VDC battery pack.

Regardless of what anyone ever tells you running a parallel battery pack is worth the expense, storage space, and time.

Use an accurate tool to learn how much each piece of equipment draws (power - watts) / consumes (KWH). Don't simply take the name plate on the e-doc or advert as gospel! Once you know the total consumption validate this same information in all extreme working scenarios whether it be winter, summer, etc.

Once you know this information double, triple, quadruple the (AH) Amp Hour / Ampacity of the battery bank. If your goal is 8 hours insure the battery bank can sustain no less than 24 hours! Even better 32-48 hours of real world run time - why???

It doesn't matter what type of battery you're considering as every type of battery chemistry has a life cycle. Whether that be 100 cycles to 8000 cycles which is based on some in lab (Ideal) condition of 20 ~ 25'C. It also doesn't address depending upon the type / chemistry of the cells the DOD or Depth of Discharge.

Some chemistry allow 50 ~ 80% DOD . . .

As it relates to any battery bank insure proper fusing (within 12" of the positive terminal. If the cells are lithium / LifPO4 a BCM must be in place. Any battery chemistry is a hazard but Lithium / LifePO4 cells are the most dangerous cells to be around should they go nuclear!

Any and all cells should be enclosed in a properly rated battery box to contain any potential explosion / fire. Don't even consider ever using a wet primary cell as used in a automotive vehicle.

Much more to talk about but the last nugget I'll leave you with is that given the HOA restrictions. It's better to use a invertor system and charge the same via 120 VAC POCO line. No worries about HOA rules / regulations, no taking down anything, moving things around, etc.

Hence the importance of investing in the proper sized battery bank, invertor, and accessories . . .

NOTE: It goes without saying when ever you can avoid any kind of AC - DC conversion it makes sense. But, for the average person this is out of their wheel house and expertise and requires experience and many times trial and error as to what actually works.

Rock On . . .
 

Lass

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I'd just drop an email to Andy, forum member and Dahua/Hikvision supplier. He can answer your question probably right off the top of his head. Any decent surveillance camera that I've seen will run on 12VDC or PoE. I know that Dahua make many non PoE NVRs but I don't know what their power requirements are, so check with Andy.

Email
Andy Wang kingsecurity2014@163.com
Thanks!
 

Lass

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Lass

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Here are some things to consider as you walk down this path. If this is a serious installation the appropriate amount of finances must be invested in the same. Everything you consider must be spec'd to work and integrate with one another as this will reduce wasted time, resources, and finances.

Given you live in a HOA which makes no sense to me what so ever as you already know the extreme limits applied to you. It makes little sense in investing and employing a solar / wind powered system. If for no other reason just to have one or where its a SHTF scenario. And in that case I'm pretty sure the HOA or anyone else isn't going to be ringing your bell to tell you - you're in breach of some Nazi covenant / bylaw! :facepalm: :lmao:

Regardless of the above here are some basics to consider as this will directly relate to over all costs, human risks, and electrical impact.

Running a 48 VDC battery system is more efficient and better than any 12 VDC setup. The advantages are smaller diameter wires, longer distances, less current / amperage, and less conversion. Even if you used a step down converter to 24-12 VDC you're still further ahead than if using a 12 VDC battery pack.

Regardless of what anyone ever tells you running a parallel battery pack is worth the expense, storage space, and time.

Use an accurate tool to learn how much each piece of equipment draws (power - watts) / consumes (KWH). Don't simply take the name plate on the e-doc or advert as gospel! Once you know the total consumption validate this same information in all extreme working scenarios whether it be winter, summer, etc.

Once you know this information double, triple, quadruple the (AH) Amp Hour / Ampacity of the battery bank. If your goal is 8 hours insure the battery bank can sustain no less than 24 hours! Even better 32-48 hours of real world run time - why???

It doesn't matter what type of battery you're considering as every type of battery chemistry has a life cycle. Whether that be 100 cycles to 8000 cycles which is based on some in lab (Ideal) condition of 20 ~ 25'C. It also doesn't address depending upon the type / chemistry of the cells the DOD or Depth of Discharge.

Some chemistry allow 50 ~ 80% DOD . . .

As it relates to any battery bank insure proper fusing (within 12" of the positive terminal. If the cells are lithium / LifPO4 a BCM must be in place. Any battery chemistry is a hazard but Lithium / LifePO4 cells are the most dangerous cells to be around should they go nuclear!

Any and all cells should be enclosed in a properly rated battery box to contain any potential explosion / fire. Don't even consider ever using a wet primary cell as used in a automotive vehicle.

Much more to talk about but the last nugget I'll leave you with is that given the HOA restrictions. It's better to use a invertor system and charge the same via 120 VAC POCO line. No worries about HOA rules / regulations, no taking down anything, moving things around, etc.

Hence the importance of investing in the proper sized battery bank, invertor, and accessories . . .

NOTE: It goes without saying when ever you can avoid any kind of AC - DC conversion it makes sense. But, for the average person this is out of their wheel house and expertise and requires experience and many times trial and error as to what actually works.

Rock On . . .
Thanks for the comment! I am an amateur radio operator involved with emergency communications for our local served agencies during grid down situations, usually coastal storms. So operating without power in extreme weather conditions is our norm and the center of our prepping and training exercises. I am very fortunate to have a well-known expert in this field as my mentor who develops disaster planning exercises nationally and coordinates those operations at least quarterly. He is also a meteorologist. My fellow ARES members are mostly retired engineers that often build their own equipment so I can ask them questions when need be. We design and build our own pelican battery cases as well as fused wiring harnesses so that is covered. I want to use a 12 volt NVR so I don’t have to use an inverter to power it, which is a waste of energy. Luckily the power supply is external on most 12 volt NVR models I have seen. But none of my amateur radio folks have camera experience, so that’s why I’m here! I know you guys know your sh*t! I’ll be able to figure out the power/wiring situation just fine, since that is what we train for all the time. But I appreciate your concern about that!!
 

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Thanks for the comment! I am an amateur radio operator involved with emergency communications for our local served agencies during grid down situations, usually coastal storms. So operating without power in extreme weather conditions is our norm and the center of our prepping and training exercises. I am very fortunate to have a well-known expert in this field as my mentor who develops disaster planning exercises nationally and coordinates those operations at least quarterly. He is also a meteorologist. My fellow ARES members are mostly retired engineers that often build their own equipment so I can ask them questions when need be. We design and build our own pelican battery cases as well as fused wiring harnesses so that is covered. I want to use a 12 volt NVR so I don’t have to use an inverter to power it, which is a waste of energy. Luckily the power supply is external on most 12 volt NVR models I have seen. But none of my amateur radio folks have camera experience, so that’s why I’m here! I know you guys know your sh*t! I’ll be able to figure out the power/wiring situation just fine, since that is what we train for all the time. But I appreciate your concern about that!!
Appreciate the insight and back ground but would affirm the Why's . . . The Why's are dictated by how the entire system is integrated and tied together to achieve the final goal. Case in point your initial goal was to power the system via solar / wind.

The so called 12 volt solar panels are not / do not output 12 volts but 24~32 VDC. So a charge controller would need to be included no matter what. Which as you know depending upon distance requires larger diameter wire to reduce voltage drop.

Larger wire costs more, takes up more room, is heavy, and carries more current nor safe. As soon as you move away from the so called Hobby solar you immediately go to 60 / 72 cells or more. These solar panels output depending on design, number of cells, result in 39 ~ 50+ VDC.

As is with the 12 volts system a charge controller must be used but the huge difference is again in wire smaller diameter, longer distances, lower current, and overall costs. As noted early on unless you wire a 12 VDC battery pack in parallel to offer longer ampacity (AH) you will always be in the danger zone of drop out.

The only saving grace is the vast majority of cameras have a wide operating range. Typically that's 25% of swing either way which translates to 9~15 VDC. So in theory a camera will operate fine in either extreme as it was designed to do so but what's the problem??? :thumbdown:

You can not, shall not, ever run a 12 VDC battery system below 12.3 VDC!

Depending upon many factors which I am sure you're aware of generally speaking a 12 VDC battery is considered fully (Lets ignore cell type, technology, chemistry, temperature for now). 12.8 ~ 12.9 VDC is considered 100% full. Unlike everything else in the world batteries do not reflect in a linear fashion of 100 ~ 0% as many falsely believe.

Anything below 12.0 VDC is a discharged battery . . .

I am being very specific when I use the phrase discharged vs flat / dead. Anyone who believes otherwise doesn't understand basic battery theory or the *Why's. If you see a battery that is 9 VDC its garbage, you see a battery that is 11 VDC its garbage.

Every time a battery is allowed to fully discharge this I'm sure you know directly impact the number of cycles. So if it was designed to be cycled 100 times from full to (DOD) not flat! That is a cycle until the battery will longer hold a charge or provide enough power / energy per the 20 aH rating / 20~25'C.

As noted, to offset this issue people either use higher ampacity cells or parallel them to do the same. This again doesn't address the fact you do not want to run a camera system in the lower voltage range.

Why???

Because unlike pure resistive (Ohms Law) voltage and current does not follow lock and step. It actually goes up (current) while the voltage goes down.

Why???

Because that thing called a regulator inside of every 1st / 2nd tier camera is what enables it to operate in those wide voltage ranges without dying . . .

So if its still able to operate at 9 VDC how does that impact a battery pack which is clearly not discharged vs flat / dead??? And literally every time you allow a battery to go flat / dead reduces its cycle life by 30%! Meaning if said battery pack had 100 cycles and all you did was run it flat / dead you will have 70 cycles left!

Obviously this depending upon the type of chemistry / technology in use but the basics never change. Because if it wasn't true there would be batteries in every type still running now . . .

NOTE: To be clear running a 12 VDC battery pack is fine its done everyday all over the world with great success. The difference is these systems were designed with a very wide margin of operations: Large ampacity per cell, paralleled, higher quality, never running below 50% DOD even if the cells are designed to consume up to 80% etc. Lastly, realistic run time and dedicated voltage cut off circuit (BCM) voltage protection circuit to protect against going below 12.3 VDC.
 

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Appreciate the insight and back ground but would affirm the Why's . . . The Why's are dictated by how the entire system is integrated and tied together to achieve the final goal. Case in point your initial goal was to power the system via solar / wind.

The so called 12 volt solar panels are not / do not output 12 volts but 24~32 VDC. So a charge controller would need to be included no matter what. Which as you know depending upon distance requires larger diameter wire to reduce voltage drop.

Larger wire costs more, takes up more room, is heavy, and carries more current nor safe. As soon as you move away from the so called Hobby solar you immediately go to 60 / 72 cells or more. These solar panels output depending on design, number of cells, result in 39 ~ 50+ VDC.

As is with the 12 volts system a charge controller must be used but the huge difference is again in wire smaller diameter, longer distances, lower current, and overall costs. As noted early on unless you wire a 12 VDC battery pack in parallel to offer longer ampacity (AH) you will always be in the danger zone of drop out.

The only saving grace is the vast majority of cameras have a wide operating range. Typically that's 25% of swing either way which translates to 9~15 VDC. So in theory a camera will operate fine in either extreme as it was designed to do so but what's the problem??? :thumbdown:

You can not, shall not, ever run a 12 VDC battery system below 12.3 VDC!

Depending upon many factors which I am sure you're aware of generally speaking a 12 VDC battery is considered fully (Lets ignore cell type, technology, chemistry, temperature for now). 12.8 ~ 12.9 VDC is considered 100% full. Unlike everything else in the world batteries do not reflect in a linear fashion of 100 ~ 0% as many falsely believe.

Anything below 12.0 VDC is a discharged battery . . .

I am being very specific when I use the phrase discharged vs flat / dead. Anyone who believes otherwise doesn't understand basic battery theory or the *Why's. If you see a battery that is 9 VDC its garbage, you see a battery that is 11 VDC its garbage.

Every time a battery is allowed to fully discharge this I'm sure you know directly impact the number of cycles. So if it was designed to be cycled 100 times from full to (DOD) not flat! That is a cycle until the battery will longer hold a charge or provide enough power / energy per the 20 aH rating / 20~25'C.

As noted, to offset this issue people either use higher ampacity cells or parallel them to do the same. This again doesn't address the fact you do not want to run a camera system in the lower voltage range.

Why???

Because unlike pure resistive (Ohms Law) voltage and current does not follow lock and step. It actually goes up (current) while the voltage goes down.

Why???

Because that thing called a regulator inside of every 1st / 2nd tier camera is what enables it to operate in those wide voltage ranges without dying . . .

So if its still able to operate at 9 VDC how does that impact a battery pack which is clearly not discharged vs flat / dead??? And literally every time you allow a battery to go flat / dead reduces its cycle life by 30%! Meaning if said battery pack had 100 cycles and all you did was run it flat / dead you will have 70 cycles left!

Obviously this depending upon the type of chemistry / technology in use but the basics never change. Because if it wasn't true there would be batteries in every type still running now . . .

NOTE: To be clear running a 12 VDC battery pack is fine its done everyday all over the world with great success. The difference is these systems were designed with a very wide margin of operations: Large ampacity per cell, paralleled, higher quality, never running below 50% DOD even if the cells are designed to consume up to 80% etc. Lastly, realistic run time and dedicated voltage cut off circuit (BCM) voltage protection circuit to protect against going below 12.3 VDC.
I’m assuming you don’t know much about ARES and amateur radio operators in general? We are very well-versed in all types of battery chemistries, load capacities and their maintenance (my mentor and I build our own AGM trickle/float chargers). But I will be using 12 volt LiFePO4 batteries bc 12 volt systems are the basis of our hobby. Weize 36Ah LiFePO4 batteries now sell for $144 which is the typical size battery for my ARES grid down deployments. In emergency operations, it’s important to build in redundancy by having multiple batteries, instead of one large one. This way, if one goes bad, your not screwed. Also, you can be charging a few while the others are in use. I have several LiFePO4’s for my NVR/Camera setup, along with my AGM’s for extreme cold weather deployment. A LiFePO4 discharged down to 14% has a voltage of 12.5 VDC, so there is no worry about low voltage affecting the NVR or cameras. (And no I won’t let them go that low) The small portable 12 volt wind turbine typically used on sailboats will also charge the battery bank at night when the solar panels aren’t producing energy. I guess I assumed people would understand portable solar panels/wind turbines would be connected to a charge controller and a battery bank. I thought that was common knowledge. I hope I have satisfied you in my knowledge in powering/maintaining an off-grid setup. I already did the calculations (worst case scenario) for a 12 volt non-POE NVR live streaming 8 cameras with an 11 watt monitor (yes there is one out there), will have a total load of between 34-38 watts, maybe a little more. The cameras will be on separate power setup with their max power consumption of 7 watts each. But obviously this is worst case scenario and unlikely unless there is suspicious activity detected. And I would be using A/C power anyway when there weren’t power outages. So anyway, just bc I’m a girl and a newbie to NVR’s and camera technology, doesn’t mean I don’t understand electronics, solar, meteorology, battery chemistry/maintenance etc. You should delve into the world of amateur radio…steep learning curve that takes decades to master, but it sounds like you are up to a challenge! Go through the free online technician license test to get a feel for the knowledge base necessary for the hobby. That’s the starting point. Anyway, I came here for advice on NVR’s and cameras, not the scope of this conversation. I’m part of a team of electrical and nuclear engineers, guided missile software specialists and many other geeky fellows. But we don’t know about surveillance equipment, though we are fully confident we can power them under all conditions bc that is our thang.
 

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I’m assuming you don’t know much about ARES and amateur radio operators in general? We are very well-versed in all types of battery chemistries, load capacities and their maintenance (my mentor and I build our own AGM trickle/float chargers). But I will be using 12 volt LiFePO4 batteries bc 12 volt systems are the basis of our hobby. Weize 36Ah LiFePO4 batteries now sell for $144 which is the typical size battery for my ARES grid down deployments. In emergency operations, it’s important to build in redundancy by having multiple batteries, instead of one large one. This way, if one goes bad, your not screwed. Also, you can be charging a few while the others are in use. I have several LiFePO4’s for my NVR/Camera setup, along with my AGM’s for extreme cold weather deployment. A LiFePO4 discharged down to 14% has a voltage of 12.5 VDC, so there is no worry about low voltage affecting the NVR or cameras. (And no I won’t let them go that low) The small portable 12 volt wind turbine typically used on sailboats will also charge the battery bank at night when the solar panels aren’t producing energy. I guess I assumed people would understand portable solar panels/wind turbines would be connected to a charge controller and a battery bank. I thought that was common knowledge. I hope I have satisfied you in my knowledge in powering/maintaining an off-grid setup. I already did the calculations (worst case scenario) for a 12 volt non-POE NVR live streaming 8 cameras with an 11 watt monitor (yes there is one out there), will have a total load of between 34-38 watts, maybe a little more. The cameras will be on separate power setup with their max power consumption of 7 watts each. But obviously this is worst case scenario and unlikely unless there is suspicious activity detected. And I would be using A/C power anyway when there weren’t power outages. So anyway, just bc I’m a girl and a newbie to NVR’s and camera technology, doesn’t mean I don’t understand electronics, solar, meteorology, battery chemistry/maintenance etc. You should delve into the world of amateur radio…steep learning curve that takes decades to master, but it sounds like you are up to a challenge! Go through the free online technician license test to get a feel for the knowledge base necessary for the hobby. That’s the starting point. Anyway, I came here for advice on NVR’s and cameras, not the scope of this conversation. I’m part of a team of electrical and nuclear engineers, guided missile software specialists and many other geeky fellows. But we don’t know about surveillance equipment, though we are fully confident we can power them under all conditions bc that is our thang.
Assuming the chart you provided up above is for that specific battery you would never go below 13.1 VDC. The voltage I noted up above (12.8 - 12.9 VDC) is for a common flooded wet / AGM cells which reflects a 100% SOC.

  • How many batteries will power each portion of the system (NVR / Camera)?
  • What is the planned run time for this system?
  • What brand & model of charge controller do you intend to use?
 

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Assuming the chart you provided up above is for that specific battery you would never go below 13.1 VDC. The voltage I noted up above (12.8 - 12.9 VDC) is for a common flooded wet / AGM cells which reflects a 100% SOC.

  • How many batteries will power each portion of the system (NVR / Camera)?
  • What is the planned run time for this system?
  • What brand & model of charge controller do you intend to use?
Ok, so you didn’t take the hint from my last post so I’ll be more blunt…Thank you, but I don’t need advice or information or questioning about my ability to power or maintain my NVR/camera or battery system. I have lots of smart people around me (and I am smart too) so I can get any information I need about that. I’m sure you have lots more to say on this subject so maybe you should start a thread on how you power an off-grid system or how others should be doing it‍
 

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Ok, so you didn’t take the hint from my last post so I’ll be more blunt…Thank you, but I don’t need advice or information or questioning about my ability to power or maintain my NVR/camera or battery system. I have lots of smart people around me (and I am smart too) so I can get any information I need about that. I’m sure you have lots more to say on this subject so maybe you should start a thread on how you power an off-grid system or how others should be doing it‍
You don't need advise or information yet you posted the question?? When provided factual information to not only inform you as well as others. One of the first replies from you is I'm a girl ??? :thumbdown:

  • Am I supposed to treat you differently than everyone else on this board just because your a girl??
  • Are my questions going to be different (IF) you're a girl vs a boy?? Normally a person would indicate female / male not girl.
  • You were provided information to high light the most basic of what it takes to have a off grid power system.
  • You were asked more Probing Questions because there's much to know and learn.
  • This forum like many others is intended to learn, share, and expand your understanding of the security video industry.


If you're so smart and the other people are so smart why did you even bother coming here to ask??? :facepalm: You can't answer three basic questions which are relevant to the success / failure of this endeavor???
 

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Anyway, I came here for advice on NVR’s and cameras, not the scope of this conversation. I’m part of a team of electrical and nuclear engineers, guided missile software specialists and many other geeky fellows. But we don’t know about surveillance equipment, though we are fully confident we can power them under all conditions bc that is our thang.

<-- In your own words I came here for advice on NVR’s and cameras :thumbdown: :facepalm: :lmao:
 
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