New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

FUTURE for 301
 
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View attachment 75412
If you have some isopropyl alcohol (the 99+% type) use that with some cotton buds/cue-tips to clean the area circled in green. It's not going to fix anything, but it'll tidy things up and perhaps indicate a problem if it becomes oxidized again.

Where were your test points when you measured 5V and 7.5V?

If you are going to add a 3.3k resistor, add it at points E + F, or E + G as marked in pic1.

View attachment 75413
Check if your multimeter has option to measure diode. The symbol looks like a triangle, like that circled in pic2.
With the Modernizr OFF, put your multimeter in diode mode and use the positive lead to point A and negative lead to point B, you should get a reading greater than zero...about 0.6 thereabouts. If it is showing zero, then it's faulty.
With the Modernizr ON, put your multimeter in DC volts mode and put positive lead to point A and negative to point B. Measure voltage when doorbell not pressed and when doorbell pressed.
With the Modernizr ON, put your multimeter in DC volts mode and put positive lead to point C and negative to point D. Measure voltage when doorbell not pressed and when doorbell pressed.

Can you take a photo of the underside of the board too.

I tested, but the multimeter just showed OL. Can I add the resistor to point a to c? E to F is so small to solder hehe. Or even put the resistor before connection to the board? Will that work with ac?
 
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I tested, but the multimeter just showed OL
Did you have the probes on correctly? Positive to A and negative to B? If you did it correctly and the reading is 0L, then it is faulty.
Don't connect resistor from A to C. There's a reason why that chip exists. Connecting A to C would bypass safety and will fry the remaining components.

esp-clear_mod.jpg
E,H,I are practically the same. And F and G are the same. So if E to F is too small, you can choose {E,H,I} to {F,G} to connect your resistor.

But the point is moot; if your optocoupler is busted, you need to replace it. Go to your electronics store and pick up a new one. They are something like 5c each when bought in bulk, or perhaps $1 when buying single item at electronics store. Look for something like a PC817 chip. It's a 4 pin optocoupler/optoisolator.

What were your multimeter voltage readings for points A to B and C to D for both button pressed and not pressed?
 
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Did you have the probes on correctly? Positive to A and negative to B? If you did it correctly and the reading is 0L, then it is faulty.
Don't connect resistor from A to C. There's a reason why that chip exists. Connecting A to C would bypass safety and will fry the remaining components.

View attachment 75570
E,H,I are practically the same. And F and G are the same. So if E to F is too small, you can choose {E,H,I} to {F,G} to connect your resistor.

But the point is moot; if your optocoupler is busted, you need to replace it. Go to your electronics store and pick up a new one. They are something like 5c each when bought in bulk, or perhaps $1 when buying single item at electronics store. Look for something like a PC817 chip. It's a 4 pin optocoupler/optoisolator.

What were your multimeter voltage readings for points A to B and C to D for both button pressed and not pressed?
Ok, not getting anything, and i know it works. When there is no power it does not send mqtt messages and when there is power it sends "on". But can I add the resistor on the line from the doorbell before the connections points to the mordernizer? Will that be the same?
 
But can I add the resistor on the line from the doorbell before the connections points to the mordernizer? Will that be the same?
Adding a 3.3k resistor at that location won't have any effect at all.

i know it works. When there is no power it does not send mqtt messages and when there is power it sends "on"
I'm at a loss. If it works, why do you want to make changes?
 
Adding a 3.3k resistor at that location won't have any effect at all.


I'm at a loss. If it works, why do you want to make changes?

I mean the board works and is not dead. But it does not work because it shows that the button is pressed all the time.
 
So...it doesn't work . Most likely because that optocoupler is fried, but I can't be sure, because you didn't report back about the multimeter voltage readings that was asked.
:idk:
 
So...it doesn't work . Most likely because that optocoupler is fried, but I can't be sure, because you didn't report back about the multimeter voltage readings that was asked.
:idk:
I will check the voltages and report back. I got this answer from the seller of the board.

"
Yes, that’s actually normal. The boards had a problem with the footprint of the optocoupler, because of that they are soldered on by hand.

It may look a bit messy, but every board is testes before I ship them out.

"
 
I just tried this and I actually see the DNS request. I am using dnsmasq on Linux and I see the following request when the doorbell is pressed:

Nov 21 11:58:37 dnsmasq[2924]: query[A] alarm.use.s3.amazonaws.com from <my doorbell IP>

I am using the Nelly doorbell running v5.2.4 build 200321. I am going to see if I can write a quick script to intercept this request and trigger an IFTTT web hook.

Had you set up the doorbell with one of the mobile apps or with BCT? If mobile, which mobile app did you use?
 
Had you set up the doorbell with one of the mobile apps or with BCT? If mobile, which mobile app did you use?
I set it up with Guarding Vision. I have this fully functional using a packet capture daemon (modified version of a port knocking script) that uses the VirtualButtons Alexa skill to trigger a custom routine for each of my doorbells. This gives a nearly instantaneous triggering of the Alexa routine. I am now hooking this into Monacle so I can pull up the appropriate camera on the Echo when the button is pressed. More information to come when I finish the project...
 
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I set it up with Guarding Vision. I have this fully functional using a packet capture daemon (modified version of a port knocking script) that uses the VirtualButtons Alexa skill to trigger a custom routine for each of my doorbells. This gives a nearly instantaneous triggering of the Alexa routine. I am now hooking this into Monacle so I can pull up the appropriate camera on the Echo when the button is pressed. More information to come when I finish the project...

Sounds great. My problem is the lack of the initial outgoing call, which appears to be driven by the need to set it up w/ a specific app.
 
I received my replacement DB1 today.

Installed it back on my front door trim and did the first install setup...... chime is working again ... yay!

But ......

It prompt to update the firmware so I clicked on update ....................... chime not working anymore ... oh wonderful!

Removed the DB1 device from app and re-add it back in..... chime still not working ... strange thing is .. it did not ask me for type of chime like the previous DB1. The previous DB1 would prompt me type of chime every time i remove and re-add the device back in app

I sent off an email to EZVIZ then called them up .. Tech asked for case number and found my email .... he's puzzled by this and wanted me to do a hard reset which mean removing the cover and holding the reset button for more than 5 second ... confirmed led flashes red ...

Then tech ask me to re-add the device ... this time it asked for the type of chime so I selected the type of chime I had and complete the installation. Chime start working again soft yay

Hopefully the chime stay working from this point on.... I asked tech why did it stopped working after the firmware update and I had to do a hard reset to get it back. He said the latest app require new firmware so it require to do an installation step from beginning when there is a major change to the app to set up the latest firmware in DB1 properly.

I guess if we update our app in future or the firmware and chime stop working.We will have to treat it as a new install and do a hard reset (button inside the DB1) and install it if it was like a new DB1.

Anyhow, I am glad the chime is working again but still a soft yay from me .....
 
I received my replacement DB1 today.

Installed it back on my front door trim and did the first install setup...... chime is working again ... yay!

But ......

It prompt to update the firmware so I clicked on update ....................... chime not working anymore ... oh wonderful!

Removed the DB1 device from app and re-add it back in..... chime still not working ... strange thing is .. it did not ask me for type of chime like the previous DB1. The previous DB1 would prompt me type of chime every time i remove and re-add the device back in app

I sent off an email to EZVIZ then called them up .. Tech asked for case number and found my email .... he's puzzled by this and wanted me to do a hard reset which mean removing the cover and holding the reset button for more than 5 second ... confirmed led flashes red ...

Then tech ask me to re-add the device ... this time it asked for the type of chime so I selected the type of chime I had and complete the installation. Chime start working again soft yay

Hopefully the chime stay working from this point on.... I asked tech why did it stopped working after the firmware update and I had to do a hard reset to get it back. He said the latest app require new firmware so it require to do an installation step from beginning when there is a major change to the app to set up the latest firmware in DB1 properly.

I guess if we update our app in future or the firmware and chime stop working.We will have to treat it as a new install and do a hard reset (button inside the DB1) and install it if it was like a new DB1.

Anyhow, I am glad the chime is working again but still a soft yay from me .....
So to refresh my memory and not to go back on all post, you are using EZVIZ App with your EZVIZ DB1 and EZVIZ firmware. Did you make note of which firmware version your new/replacement DB came with and which version you upgraded to? Also which App version are you running?

So the Lost Chime fix is to have the latest EZVIZ App version and firmware, do a Hard Reset and re-add the DB back in the EZVIZ App, basically starting over as if it were a brand new DB install, correct?

Maybe those with the Lost Chime issue who are running other brand firmware will need to do this Hard Reset/Reinstall first, then re-add their ONVIF firmware back.

Personally I still think all of this is happening because they (EZVIZ) are getting ready to release their Wireless Chime, wonder how the 2 Chimes (Existing/Theirs) will work together, or will they? :)

So basically your old DB was not bad?

Thank You for all your sharing TechBill...and helping solve the Great Chime Mystery!!! :)
 
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So...it doesn't work . Most likely because that optocoupler is fried, but I can't be sure, because you didn't report back about the multimeter voltage readings that was asked.
:idk:

Hi
thank you for helping me, I have now done the voltage test.
a-b = 0,3 volt´AC
c-d = 0,8 volt AC

Testing moving the 3k3 resistor on the different points you suggested did not help at all. But connecting it like my picture below worked. And it showed off, when not pressed and on when pressed. But is that a safe way to connect it? If I do a more rebust connection better with soldering? Its ac power.

I have connected 2x 3k3 resistors here that works.
 

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So to refresh my memory and not to go back on all post, you are using EZVIZ App with your EZVIZ DB1 and EZVIZ firmware. Did you make note of which firmware version your new/replacement DB came with and which version you upgraded to? Also which App version are you running?

So the Lost Chime fix is to have the latest EZVIZ App version and firmware, do a Hard Reset and re-add the DB back in the EZVIZ App, basically starting over as if it were a brand new DB install, correct?

Maybe those with the Lost Chime issue who are running other brand firmware will need to do this Hard Reset/Reinstall first, then re-add their ONVIF firmware back.

Personally I still think all of this is happening because they (EZVIZ) are getting ready to release their Wireless Chime, wonder how the 2 Chimes (Existing/Theirs) will work together, or will they? :)

So basically your old DB was not bad?

Thank You for all your sharing TechBill...and helping solve the Great Chime Mystery!!! :)


Actually, i took a screenshot of the firmware prompt before updating it because I had a gut feeling that my chime is going to stop working after I did the firmware update. You can see the firmware version I upgraded from and to below.

I been using EZVIZ app since all apps now answer the DB with microphone enabled couple of month ago so I didn't see any point using other apps. I have to quickly hit the mute button as soon the viewer comes on in screen but often the person already heard my background noise before I can get a mute it so they know they are being monitored.

I was never told to do a hard reset on my old DB by the tech support until I got this new DB1 and last night they told me to do a hard reset and run the installation again after the firmware update which got my chime back. So I don't know if doing a hard reset on my old DB1 would had restore chime function. I do recalled asking them if I should go do a hard reset to see if that fixes it and they mentioned that removing and adding back in DB1 on app should have restore the installation setting so they never asked me to do a hard reset.

If anyone lose their chime function after doing a firmware upgrade in the app then yes I would recommend doing a hard reset which mean removing the security screw and the DB cover then hold the reset button for more than 5 second. When the reset button is released, the led should flash red then you would do a new installation on the EZVIZ app.

Here the screenshot ....

Unknown.png
 
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So today I was also able to get my chime working, my steps were similar but slightly different, so posting here for completeness...

Hardware: Hik-Vision DS-HD1
Prior Firmware: Hikvision 200321
Previously configured via BCT only and placed on restrictive IOT VLAN.
Was unable to configure via any phone app, and in addition to the chime, no DNS calls etc were being made on doorbell press.

Step 1: Uploaded EZVIZ firmware 200220
Step 2: Hard Reset, to include removal of power, holding in reset button while re-applied (resets admin PWD as well)
Step 3: Added temporary firewall rule to IOT VLAN to allow all outbound connections
[At this point, attempted to add device using an iPhone SE-2 running iOS 14.2 and the EZ-Viz app and Hik-Connect app... all failed at the "Connect to device wifi" step, even when I manually joined to network]​
Step 4: Using an iPad Mini running iPad OS 13.4.1, ran setup successfully at least partway.
[This reached the "Device Setup" stage, and then it would not progress past a "Light Linkage" page, as when I pressed save it would merely go back to the previous page... but at the previous page I could get the device QR code]​
Step 5: Switching to the iPhone, finished adding the device using the QR Code from the iPad.
Step 6: Under "Device Settings" was able to select the chime type and set to mechanical (was set to "No Chime). Viola... at this point the doorbell is working, and also is sending notifications back to the app
Step 7: Connected via BCT and saved configuration file
Step 8: Took full packet capture of bootup and chime press, saw DNS call to alarm.use.s3.amazonaws.com as others have reported, followed by a port 443 connection.
[Confirmed ONVIF unavailable as expected, also noted inability to change admin password or add additional users from BCT]​
Step 9: Updated to firmware 200321 from within the EZVIZ app [Note that this is EZVIZ 200321, not Hikvision 200321 as there is an EZVIZ logo superimposed on the ONVIF video stream]
Step 10: Added "viewer" user using BCT, confirmed ability to now connect via ONVIF, and adjust motion detection zones. Note that the secondary video stream must have it's resolution set to CIF before the main stream can be edited as the 200220 firmware used resolution not supported under 200321 apparently and so you'll get an error when you try to save.
Step 11: Confirmed chime still working, and that EZVIZ app still showed the option to set mechanical/electronic/none.
[Note somewhere in here my viewer account permissions disappeared and so my NVR was suddenly unable to start recording... but since it was a valid user/pass, the "test" feature still reported success... this took longer to figure out than it should have... but adding the permissions in again via BCT worked fine an all is well again on the ONVIF front]​
Step 12: Add firewall rule blocking all outbound traffic except port 443 to the applicable amazon regions
Step 13: Changed encryption password in EZVIZ app.
Step 14: Saved Config File.

So now I have a working chime, working ONVIF recording on the local LAN with camera-driven motion detection zones for event recording, and doorbell presses cause notifications in the phone and I can tap a button or two and see the doorbell video/audio. The only thing that won't work is the ability to see video after button presses when my phone is not on the local LAN, but that's my preference. Also all the "dial home" packets are being blocked as confirmed by the firewall.

I can definitely redirect the cam's port 443 traffic to a local IP using (outbound) port forwarding, which would then make local notifications outside the EZVIZ app environment easier, but then the app notifications break. I did see in the packet capture a reference to MQTT, so I would suspect that's the protocol in use for the doorbell.
 
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