It's the Future Man!!! LOL Empty@David L But the 201 is still empty...
It's the Future Man!!! LOL Empty
My thought was to split up the 101, bad thought
View attachment 75412
If you have some isopropyl alcohol (the 99+% type) use that with some cotton buds/cue-tips to clean the area circled in green. It's not going to fix anything, but it'll tidy things up and perhaps indicate a problem if it becomes oxidized again.
Where were your test points when you measured 5V and 7.5V?
If you are going to add a 3.3k resistor, add it at points E + F, or E + G as marked in pic1.
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Check if your multimeter has option to measure diode. The symbol looks like a triangle, like that circled in pic2.
With the Modernizr OFF, put your multimeter in diode mode and use the positive lead to point A and negative lead to point B, you should get a reading greater than zero...about 0.6 thereabouts. If it is showing zero, then it's faulty.
With the Modernizr ON, put your multimeter in DC volts mode and put positive lead to point A and negative to point B. Measure voltage when doorbell not pressed and when doorbell pressed.
With the Modernizr ON, put your multimeter in DC volts mode and put positive lead to point C and negative to point D. Measure voltage when doorbell not pressed and when doorbell pressed.
Can you take a photo of the underside of the board too.
Did you have the probes on correctly? Positive to A and negative to B? If you did it correctly and the reading is 0L, then it is faulty.I tested, but the multimeter just showed OL
Ok, not getting anything, and i know it works. When there is no power it does not send mqtt messages and when there is power it sends "on". But can I add the resistor on the line from the doorbell before the connections points to the mordernizer? Will that be the same?Did you have the probes on correctly? Positive to A and negative to B? If you did it correctly and the reading is 0L, then it is faulty.
Don't connect resistor from A to C. There's a reason why that chip exists. Connecting A to C would bypass safety and will fry the remaining components.
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E,H,I are practically the same. And F and G are the same. So if E to F is too small, you can choose {E,H,I} to {F,G} to connect your resistor.
But the point is moot; if your optocoupler is busted, you need to replace it. Go to your electronics store and pick up a new one. They are something like 5c each when bought in bulk, or perhaps $1 when buying single item at electronics store. Look for something like a PC817 chip. It's a 4 pin optocoupler/optoisolator.
What were your multimeter voltage readings for points A to B and C to D for both button pressed and not pressed?
Adding a 3.3k resistor at that location won't have any effect at all.But can I add the resistor on the line from the doorbell before the connections points to the mordernizer? Will that be the same?
I'm at a loss. If it works, why do you want to make changes?i know it works. When there is no power it does not send mqtt messages and when there is power it sends "on"
Adding a 3.3k resistor at that location won't have any effect at all.
I'm at a loss. If it works, why do you want to make changes?
I will check the voltages and report back. I got this answer from the seller of the board.So...it doesn't work . Most likely because that optocoupler is fried, but I can't be sure, because you didn't report back about the multimeter voltage readings that was asked.
I just tried this and I actually see the DNS request. I am using dnsmasq on Linux and I see the following request when the doorbell is pressed:
Nov 21 11:58:37 dnsmasq[2924]: query[A] alarm.use.s3.amazonaws.com from <my doorbell IP>
I am using the Nelly doorbell running v5.2.4 build 200321. I am going to see if I can write a quick script to intercept this request and trigger an IFTTT web hook.
I set it up with Guarding Vision. I have this fully functional using a packet capture daemon (modified version of a port knocking script) that uses the VirtualButtons Alexa skill to trigger a custom routine for each of my doorbells. This gives a nearly instantaneous triggering of the Alexa routine. I am now hooking this into Monacle so I can pull up the appropriate camera on the Echo when the button is pressed. More information to come when I finish the project...Had you set up the doorbell with one of the mobile apps or with BCT? If mobile, which mobile app did you use?
I set it up with Guarding Vision. I have this fully functional using a packet capture daemon (modified version of a port knocking script) that uses the VirtualButtons Alexa skill to trigger a custom routine for each of my doorbells. This gives a nearly instantaneous triggering of the Alexa routine. I am now hooking this into Monacle so I can pull up the appropriate camera on the Echo when the button is pressed. More information to come when I finish the project...
So to refresh my memory and not to go back on all post, you are using EZVIZ App with your EZVIZ DB1 and EZVIZ firmware. Did you make note of which firmware version your new/replacement DB came with and which version you upgraded to? Also which App version are you running?I received my replacement DB1 today.
Installed it back on my front door trim and did the first install setup...... chime is working again ... yay!
But ......
It prompt to update the firmware so I clicked on update ....................... chime not working anymore ... oh wonderful!
Removed the DB1 device from app and re-add it back in..... chime still not working ... strange thing is .. it did not ask me for type of chime like the previous DB1. The previous DB1 would prompt me type of chime every time i remove and re-add the device back in app
I sent off an email to EZVIZ then called them up .. Tech asked for case number and found my email .... he's puzzled by this and wanted me to do a hard reset which mean removing the cover and holding the reset button for more than 5 second ... confirmed led flashes red ...
Then tech ask me to re-add the device ... this time it asked for the type of chime so I selected the type of chime I had and complete the installation. Chime start working again soft yay
Hopefully the chime stay working from this point on.... I asked tech why did it stopped working after the firmware update and I had to do a hard reset to get it back. He said the latest app require new firmware so it require to do an installation step from beginning when there is a major change to the app to set up the latest firmware in DB1 properly.
I guess if we update our app in future or the firmware and chime stop working.We will have to treat it as a new install and do a hard reset (button inside the DB1) and install it if it was like a new DB1.
Anyhow, I am glad the chime is working again but still a soft yay from me .....
So...it doesn't work . Most likely because that optocoupler is fried, but I can't be sure, because you didn't report back about the multimeter voltage readings that was asked.
So to refresh my memory and not to go back on all post, you are using EZVIZ App with your EZVIZ DB1 and EZVIZ firmware. Did you make note of which firmware version your new/replacement DB came with and which version you upgraded to? Also which App version are you running?
So the Lost Chime fix is to have the latest EZVIZ App version and firmware, do a Hard Reset and re-add the DB back in the EZVIZ App, basically starting over as if it were a brand new DB install, correct?
Maybe those with the Lost Chime issue who are running other brand firmware will need to do this Hard Reset/Reinstall first, then re-add their ONVIF firmware back.
Personally I still think all of this is happening because they (EZVIZ) are getting ready to release their Wireless Chime, wonder how the 2 Chimes (Existing/Theirs) will work together, or will they?
So basically your old DB was not bad?
Thank You for all your sharing TechBill...and helping solve the Great Chime Mystery!!!