I like this PTZ.. HikVision - DS-2DF8C260I5XG-ELW 1/1.2" progressive scan CMOS @ 2mp.
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CanCuba
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Videos look great! As already mentioned, seems like Him has a slight edge on Dahua when it comes to auto tracking past fixed objects and more adjustments.
But I'd be pissed about the Amazon walking over your grass not once but twice! If he'd pulled up another 5 feet, he could have used the concrete walkway.
Oh, well. Didn't do any damage but looks unprofessional.
But I'd be pissed about the Amazon walking over your grass not once but twice! If he'd pulled up another 5 feet, he could have used the concrete walkway.
Oh, well. Didn't do any damage but looks unprofessional.
I was so going to say that too yesterday! The OP goes out of his way to make the property awesome and accessible.
Yet, these lazy inconsiderate assholes just have to walk on the grass?!? It’s not like it was another two miles from the walkway!
tech101
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tech101
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Right now, what I am confused about is why it allows only 4 rules, regardless of how many presets there are. It seems that I can only set 4 rules. Additionally, it also seems like the rules are somehow linked to the presets.
CCTVCam
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Can you only draw a single straight line? In Dahua you can draw zig zags (you have to do it continuously though) . For most in Dahua 1 to 2 rules is all thats needed because you can draw a lot of lines with zig zagging in 1 go.
tech101
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Correct only single line and it seems like 4 is the max rules I can have no matter how many different presets ... Unless there is a setting that I am not seeing.
tech101
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So I can tell you guys with confidence one thing: the night time performance is really good in terms of image quality and light sensitivity.
Also 4/3 Cam video for comparison
So far, here are my top two issues which I cannot resolve:
Also 4/3 Cam video for comparison
So far, here are my top two issues which I cannot resolve:
- There is some color banding issue going on where the roofs of the houses have this banding effect, which changes color rapidly or the lighting in the image changes when it's tracking. This might be a setting that can somehow be fixed, either with a setting or firmware.
- The biggest issue I have is the shake, which almost causes it to drop auto tracking the target moving fast or fails to focus. I've checked the mount three or four times; it's rock solid. It almost feels like something internally is causing the shake or jello effect. I'm not sure if it's defective or a software issue, but neither OIS (Optical Image Stabilization) nor EIS (Electronic Image Stabilization) helped. Turning them on or off makes no difference.
Parley
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My problem is the size of the PTZ and the area I want to install one as an upgrade. My wife would object.
CCTVCam
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What are the gain and shutter set at to achieve that brightness? It looks to me as though gain maybe high and shutter quite slow as there's a bit of a blur to the picture on movement and the image has visible artefacts especially under movement (not saying they're bad but they're there).
Can you do another video with all the lights off from your home?!? There was obvious light glare impacting the PTZ.
ljw2k
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Looks like this camera suffers from bad lens flare in your location, this impacts the picture quality.
tech101
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Yes I will try to kill one of the lights tonight and post the video at some point tonight.
tech101
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I will try to note the settings today. Sorry, I have done multiple restores to default in order to resolve the camera image shake. So far, the shake is still there. I will try to see what I can set for gain and shutter speed tonight.
Parley
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Here is a daylight picture from my 4/3" PTZ. Mine is zoomed in a little for better coverage of the intersection. It is also good for daytime license plate reading.
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Parley
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I would be interested in the PTZ5A4K-25X size PTZ with the 1/1.8" S3 chipset. Or maybe even a dual 1/1.8" chipset.
tech101
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Waiting for some vehicle to pass by, but here is a still shot.. Also the Lights which was causing the lens flare is off so there is less light now.
And the settings
And the settings
CCTVCam
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Thanks for the settings. They explain a lot about the picture.
Although you seem to be getting away with a good picture at night, generally the recommendation is not to exceed 50 on gain (gain increases noise). This may explain the presence of aretfacts in the night time picture which make it look a little as though you're looking through dirty glass (I presume the lens is clean here). They do seem typical of slight artefacts.
So far as the shutter speed is concerned, 1/60th is slow and may explain the "shaking" and motion blur. If you pause the video of the woman walking slowly with the dog at night even with lights on, one thing that becomes apparent is even at the slow speed she's moving, on a still image, many parts of the body are slightly blurred. This is almost certainly down to the shutter speed. I run 1/250th second by comparison in my 4kt at night but do have slight additional light.
The difference between light on and light off is marked and again shows this camera whilst not bad, it isn't that remarkeable at night. I bet with light off, gain at 50 and a shutter speed of 1/250th, you'd have a very dark picture based on lights off with the current settings.
That said, the positives are the picture you have is quite good as it stands. I think I'd leave the light on. You could try and shade the camera from light glare by placing something between the camera and the light, covering part of the light shade over at the camera side (I used window vinyl on mine but beware of heat here unless using low wattage led that runs cool (heat for both the vinyl and fitting that is as either could be damaged / catch fire if heat is trapped or they get too hot as a result)), or by fitting the camera with a shade. You seem to get away with the gain with minimal aretefacts, so I'd probably leave it at 66 and live with the slight artefacts that are there simply to keep the brightness up. The fact they're slight means effectively it's nit picking over the perfect picture and I wouldn't be worried by them. You probably do need to alter the shutter speed though which may impact the brightness at night noticeably. I'd try a minimum of 1/125, although in my experience anything less than 1/250 isn't going to give a blur free picture. 1/180 is a 1/2 way house. 1/125 could be decent enough provided there isn't fast movement though. I do feel looking at how dark the picture is lights off on current settings, 1/1250th might be unusuable lights off so I'd experiment and pitch for something above 1/60 but that still delivers a good still picture of moving people / vehicles. I'd also go lights on and address the glare issue in other ways such as those previously discussed. You could try sensor lighting but would need the sensor to activate ideally before someone entered the picture. This would keep brightness up and allow faster shutter speeds albeit anything faster than your current 1/60th will darken the picture over what you have now lights on.
Overall, when current gain and shutter speed are taken into account, the performance is unremarkeable but decent. It does produce a pretty good picture with light on and the current settings, although the shutter needs to be faster to give you more usable stills on moving people. I wouldn't run that shutter despite the current lights on picture simply because I doubt you're going to get decent stills of moving people which inevitably most theives will be as very few people stop and pose for a camera espedcially if up to no good. It maybe a case of compromising brightness for still usability.
In conclusion, I think if I had the money, I wouldn't be rushing out to buy one (no offence), as night time performance seems pretty average to me, but it's definately a decent camera and better than your 4/3rds.
Note this is just my opinion and others may disagree. Truly excellent low light cameras especially ptz's are in short supply at anything like affordable consumer prices. The last one I saw was a Sony? somone bought on here. From memory it was $6k for the camera body and $4k for the lens to match making it a $10k camera. The low light was amazing though it probably was cheaper to let people steal your stuff at that price than buy the camera!!!
Although you seem to be getting away with a good picture at night, generally the recommendation is not to exceed 50 on gain (gain increases noise). This may explain the presence of aretfacts in the night time picture which make it look a little as though you're looking through dirty glass (I presume the lens is clean here). They do seem typical of slight artefacts.
So far as the shutter speed is concerned, 1/60th is slow and may explain the "shaking" and motion blur. If you pause the video of the woman walking slowly with the dog at night even with lights on, one thing that becomes apparent is even at the slow speed she's moving, on a still image, many parts of the body are slightly blurred. This is almost certainly down to the shutter speed. I run 1/250th second by comparison in my 4kt at night but do have slight additional light.
The difference between light on and light off is marked and again shows this camera whilst not bad, it isn't that remarkeable at night. I bet with light off, gain at 50 and a shutter speed of 1/250th, you'd have a very dark picture based on lights off with the current settings.
That said, the positives are the picture you have is quite good as it stands. I think I'd leave the light on. You could try and shade the camera from light glare by placing something between the camera and the light, covering part of the light shade over at the camera side (I used window vinyl on mine but beware of heat here unless using low wattage led that runs cool (heat for both the vinyl and fitting that is as either could be damaged / catch fire if heat is trapped or they get too hot as a result)), or by fitting the camera with a shade. You seem to get away with the gain with minimal aretefacts, so I'd probably leave it at 66 and live with the slight artefacts that are there simply to keep the brightness up. The fact they're slight means effectively it's nit picking over the perfect picture and I wouldn't be worried by them. You probably do need to alter the shutter speed though which may impact the brightness at night noticeably. I'd try a minimum of 1/125, although in my experience anything less than 1/250 isn't going to give a blur free picture. 1/180 is a 1/2 way house. 1/125 could be decent enough provided there isn't fast movement though. I do feel looking at how dark the picture is lights off on current settings, 1/1250th might be unusuable lights off so I'd experiment and pitch for something above 1/60 but that still delivers a good still picture of moving people / vehicles. I'd also go lights on and address the glare issue in other ways such as those previously discussed. You could try sensor lighting but would need the sensor to activate ideally before someone entered the picture. This would keep brightness up and allow faster shutter speeds albeit anything faster than your current 1/60th will darken the picture over what you have now lights on.
Overall, when current gain and shutter speed are taken into account, the performance is unremarkeable but decent. It does produce a pretty good picture with light on and the current settings, although the shutter needs to be faster to give you more usable stills on moving people. I wouldn't run that shutter despite the current lights on picture simply because I doubt you're going to get decent stills of moving people which inevitably most theives will be as very few people stop and pose for a camera espedcially if up to no good. It maybe a case of compromising brightness for still usability.
In conclusion, I think if I had the money, I wouldn't be rushing out to buy one (no offence), as night time performance seems pretty average to me, but it's definately a decent camera and better than your 4/3rds.
Note this is just my opinion and others may disagree. Truly excellent low light cameras especially ptz's are in short supply at anything like affordable consumer prices. The last one I saw was a Sony? somone bought on here. From memory it was $6k for the camera body and $4k for the lens to match making it a $10k camera. The low light was amazing though it probably was cheaper to let people steal your stuff at that price than buy the camera!!!
Parley
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Do you have White LED street lamps in your neighborhood?
I would have expected to see them on the sidewalk instead - No??