Exterior Install to a Tree

[srvfan]

Good evening,

I hope everyone is well on this New Year’s Eve. I will try and keep this short and brief, but I have been out of town for an extended period. I was made aware of some issues that have occurred in my absence on a section of property I do not have monitored by camera. Now that I am home, I need to install some cameras to monitor that section of property for advanced warning so I can “address” (putting it nicely) the situation with the individual when it happens again. I will be mounting a camera (one for now, more to follow) to a tree approximately 70’ away from the corner of my house. I have scanned multiple forum posts and have gleaned several tidbits of info that I will implement (waterproofing, camo tape, camera mounting boxes, etc.) during installation. However, I have a few questions with which I hope the experts can provide guidance.

Based upon what I have read, direct burial cable would be the best option. Some examples of what I have found on Amazon include this item as well as this item. Would these wire/cable options be acceptable or over/underkill? If the latter, would anyone happen to have a suggestion (with a link) of better material?

Despite being direct burial, would it be best practice to encase the wire inside conduit within the trench and going up the tree? I figured that would provide double the protection for the cable. If conduit is advisable, would this conduit link from Lowe’s be the appropriate material to utilize? As far as depth of the trench, would it be best to check with my local code? All that will be in this trench (and potential conduit) would be two or 3 runs of CAT6 cable, so I was not sure there would be any code compliance issue in north Georgia.

Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and stay safe!

 

[sebastiantombs]

The first cable you link is CCA so it is not an appropriate cable to use. The second one, from True Cable, is solid copper and the correct style cable.

I have two cameras mounted in trees and fed with underground conduit. I used regular PVC conduit and the flex style, called Liquid Tite, to run up the tree trunks. I was very careful to make sure each joint in the PVC got an extra coat of glue after it was assembled plus two coats of rubberized paint followed by self amalgamating tape and, finally, several layers of 3M 33+. I want those joints to be as water tight as possible.

Keep in mind all trees grow, not only taller but the trunks add girth every year. Over a couple of years that will start crushing the flex conduit at the straps. I made brackets out of 1/4"x1" aluminum stock with a counter sunk center hole for a deck screw and two 10-32 tapped holes for screws to hold the conduit clamp. Everything got a coat of camo paint before being installed and a touch up after installation as well.

After two years of this setup, no signs of crushing, but the brackets are becoming embedded in the trunks so I'll be moving them this summer. I expect a rinse and repeat every couple of years.

You may also want to consider a shielded direct burial cable with appropriate grounding and surge suppression if you're in an area prone to lots of lightning. That will protect the rest of your LAN from surges.

Have a Happy New Year!

 

[srvfan]

The first cable you link is CCA so it is not an appropriate cable to use. The second one, from True Cable, is solid copper and the correct style cable.

I have two cameras mounted in trees and fed with underground conduit. I used regular PVC conduit and the flex style, called Liquid Tite, to run up the tree trunks. I was very careful to make sure each joint in the PVC got an extra coat of glue after it was assembled plus two coats of rubberized paint followed by self amalgamating tape and, finally, several layers of 3M 33+. I want those joints to be as water tight as possible.

Keep in mind all trees grow, not only taller but the trunks add girth every year. Over a couple of years that will start crushing the flex conduit at the straps. I made brackets out of 1/4"x1" aluminum stock with a counter sunk center hole for a deck screw and two 10-32 tapped holes for screws to hold the conduit clamp. Everything got a coat of camo paint before being installed and a touch up after installation as well.

After two years of this setup, no signs of crushing, but the brackets are becoming embedded in the trunks so I'll be moving them this summer. I expect a rinse and repeat every couple of years.

You may also want to consider a shielded direct burial cable with appropriate grounding and surge suppression if you're in an area prone to lots of lightning. That will protect the rest of your LAN from surges.

Have a Happy New Year!

Awesome information, thank you so much. As far the shielded direct burial cable with ground/surge suppression; we don’t necessarily have as much lightning as other areas, but if I could add an extra layer of protection, I would not be opposed. Would you happen to have a recommendation for cable to include a link? I’m totally a newbie when it comes to exterior cabling.
Also, would it be possible for you to attach/send a pic of the homemade brackets you mentioned? I would like to bootleg off of that idea. At this point, I don’t know whether I will use the tree or sink a post in order to mount the camera. However, with prices on everything skyrocketing bc of the morons ruining our country, I may have to stick with the tree after spending money on conduit.
Thanks again!

 

[fergenheimer]

Srvfan, I use the trucable and am happy with it. I do not think that you will benefit from cat6 cable and the cat5e will suffice and save you $20. You can run direct burial cable without conduit but I would go with the gray rigid conduit, especially if you expect this to be permanent. You only need a short piece of flex-tite to run from junction box to camera.

As far as code, low voltage like ethernet could be run on the ground. Buried 110 would need to be buried at 18" deep.

If this is farm land, bury the cable deeper than you will ever till. If this is timberland, putting any nails into trees will destroy the value since no lumber mill will risk destroying their saw blade because somebody nailed a no trespassing sign up. I just mention this since you said north Georgia.

 

[sebastiantombs]

If it stops raining tomorrow I'll take a shot of the brackets. They're nothing special, just flat stock from Tractor Supply. If you're going to paint them wash them once you're done drilling and tapping with dish detergent and a Scotch Brite to remove the oxide. Dry them and give them a coat of aluminum primer. Wait 24 hours and give them a second coat. Wait another 24 hours for that to dry, volatiles to evaporate, then the finish coat(s) of camo paint.

I just looked on Amazon and found this one, but you could also order 100' pre-terminated cables and save one crimp.

https://www.amazon.com/CAT5E-Shielded-Direct-Burial-Ethernet/dp/B00TADUQ16/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2IHN6L1A757AK&keywords=shielded+direct+burial+cat5e&qid=1641012411&sprefix=shielded+direct+burial+cat+5e%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-18

Amazon.com

 

[Flintstone61]

I used this stuff for burying 240VAC to a pond pump
the 10 foot sections, its easier to get the cable thru each section with 12 ft. push sticks, for each section as you work your way to the tree and before you attach/glue them together.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/JM-Eagle-Common-3-4-in-Actual-0-82-In-Non-Metallic-Pvc-10-ft-Conduit/3129571

 

[TechieTech]

If you're burying conduit, you can tie several knots in poly pull line (to increase the diameter), then suck the poly line through the conduit from one end to the other with a shop vac. After that, lube up the end you are starting from with cable lube and pull the ethernet line through the conduit.

 

[dudemaar]

Call me what you will, but this passed summer I buried 2 cat5e gel filled outdoor direct burial cables just over 100' from my house to my shop in 2hrs. I made up a spade type tool a few years back that gets the trench about 6-7" inches deep. I used a wood paint stir stick to gently push wires down to bottom of trench, then walk over it a few times to push it back together. I Will see how long this lasts. I suspect you may have to chop roots from your tree or dig tunnels underneath them (big roots).

 

[srvfan]

Srvfan, I use the trucable and am happy with it. I do not think that you will benefit from cat6 cable and the cat5e will suffice and save you $20. You can run direct burial cable without conduit but I would go with the gray rigid conduit, especially if you expect this to be permanent. You only need a short piece of flex-tite to run from junction box to camera.

As far as code, low voltage like ethernet could be run on the ground. Buried 110 would need to be buried at 18" deep.

If this is farm land, bury the cable deeper than you will ever till. If this is timberland, putting any nails into trees will destroy the value since no lumber mill will risk destroying their saw blade because somebody nailed a no trespassing sign up. I just mention this since you said north Georgia.

I guess I will roll with the TruCable based on the recommendations. The only reason I was thinking of CAT6 was so I could “future proof”. I should be in the clear as this is just residential property and will be away from my garden area. I do aerate the yard but I know the plugs do not go that deep. However, I’m thinking that at least 12-16” should provide enough depth since you point out that low voltage could be ran in the ground. Thank you!

 

[srvfan]

If it stops raining tomorrow I'll take a shot of the brackets. They're nothing special, just flat stock from Tractor Supply. If you're going to paint them wash them once you're done drilling and tapping with dish detergent an a Scotch Brite to remove the oxide. Dry them and give them a coat of aluminum primer. Wait 4 hours and give them a second coat. Wait another 24 hours for that to dry, volatiles to evaporate, then the finish coat(s) of camo paint.

I just looked on Amazon and found this one, but you could also order 100' pre-terminated cables and save one crimp.

https://www.amazon.com/CAT5E-Shielded-Direct-Burial-Ethernet/dp/B00TADUQ16/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2IHN6L1A757AK&keywords=shielded+direct+burial+cat5e&qid=1641012411&sprefix=shielded+direct+burial+cat+5e%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-18

Amazon.com

Thank you!

 

[srvfan]

I used this stuff for burying 240VAC to a pond pump
the 10 foot sections, its easier to get the cable thru each section with 12 ft. push sticks, for each section as you work your way to the tree and before you attach/glue them together.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/JM-Eagle-Common-3-4-in-Actual-0-82-In-Non-Metallic-Pvc-10-ft-Conduit/3129571

I was playing with the idea of utilizing rigid conduit as I figured it would be easier to run multiple cables in case I add cameras. I did utilize the flex liquid tite under my deck for a camera run, and have to say it was a pain trying to pull the cable through. My only problem with the rigid conduit is I’m afraid the ditch will not be straight due to obstacles such as roots, concrete over ours, etc., so I’m not how much of a pain that will be. I guess only time will tell as I begin digging. Thanks!

 

[srvfan]

Call me what you will, but this passed summer I buried 2 cat5e gel filled outdoor direct burial cables just over 100' from my house to my shop in 2hrs. I made up a spade type tool a few years back that gets the trench about 6-7" inches deep. I used a wood paint stir stick to gently push wires down to bottom of trench, then walk over it a few times to push it back together. I Will see how long this lasts. I suspect you may have to chop roots from your tree or dig tunnels underneath them (big roots).
View attachment 114124View attachment 114125View attachment 114126View attachment 114127

Now that’s a pretty slick idea. My only issue is that the ground here in this section of the state is ridiculous between the churt and rocks. I wished the soil around here was decent enough to try something like that because I am dreading all the digging I’m getting ready to perform.

 

[TonyR]

Since you're only running 70 ft. THIS time it may not be worth it, but consider a walk-behind power trencher ("Ditch With") should you plan to go further or make more trenches in the future. I used a ride-on Ditch Witch many, many times in Clayton County, Georgia circa '72 to '73 and it saved SOOO much time and heartburn. Just had to jump off it once in a while and move some softball-sized rocks, mostly sandstone or cut a root or two if over 2 inches in diameter. I watched a man use a walk-behind version for a propane line when I built this house in '06 and it appeared just as beneficial. They can be found at most equipment rental sites and even some Home Depot stores, Lowes, etc.

 

[dudemaar]

Now that’s a pretty slick idea. My only issue is that the ground here in this section of the state is ridiculous between the churt and rocks. I wished the soil around here was decent enough to try something like that because I am dreading all the digging I’m getting ready to perform.

Thanks! made this tool for a job a couple years ago that had a large network of underground sprinkler system piping. so didnt want to go any deeper than 6-7".

 

[srvfan]

Since you're only running 70 ft. THIS time it may not be worth it, but consider a walk-behind power trencher ("Ditch With") should you plan to go further or make more trenches in the future. I used a ride-on Ditch Witch many, many times in Clayton County, Georgia circa '72 to '73 and it saved SOOO much time and heartburn. Just had to jump off it once in a while and move some softball-sized rocks, mostly sandstone or cut a root or two if over 2 inches in diameter. I watched a man use a walk-behind version for a propane line when I built this house in '06 and it appeared just as beneficial. They can be found at most equipment rental sites and even some Home Depot stores, Lowes, etc.

Great minds; already been scoping out the local Home Depot rental site. It would save a lot of back pain and time. Of course I could also bribe my nephew who lives in the street to come out and do some work. Good character building exercise right there!

 

[sebastiantombs]

I use the Shop Vac trick too, but I use a "feather" made out of a lightweight plastic bag tied to mason twine for the vac pull. Then use the mason twine to pull the cable if it's a shorter run, say less than 50 feet, or a pull rope if it's over 50 feet then the cable with the pull rope. I've found that using nylon rope eliminated a lot of friction on the rope making for easier pulling. I pulled roughly 200 feet with three 70 to 90 degree bends without needing any cable lube using that trick.