Glare from LED Dusk to Dawn lightbulb

houmi

n3wb
May 19, 2024
27
9
US
Hi Everyone,

Does anyone ever get these glares/halo from their light bulb at night ? And how to remedy this issue ?

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It is much less during the day, so I am wondering if it is caused by the light fixture or reflection from the top of the garage ceiling

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It could be reflection and the actual light.

The only way to remove it is to remove light bulb or turn it off or put a shield inside light to block it from camera or move the camera until it is out of view or not distracting.
 
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What you are seeing is a reflection off the cameras lens glass. This is caused from the light and camera being placed in an area where the light is direct to the sensor of the camera, The light hits the sensor and bounces back to the glass and then back to the sensor.. As a way to help cure this for me is changing the area of view for the camera or as stated by wittaj is using a shield on the light. Even if you were to add in some tint that you might use for your car window can help. There are some very costly cameras out there that don't have this but they cost alot because of the quality of glass and coatings they use on the lenses along with software they might use to help keep these down.. At least it isn't like some of the really cheap cameras of yester year that would have a red dot.. In your night time picture the area past your light is dark this is because the light is causing the camera to adjust the camera because it feels it is getting enough light.. Personally I would use some window tint on the side facing the camera.. Once that is down or a shield is in place you should also see your night view of the area brighten up as well.. My guess is that your camera might be changing your shutter speed to something crazy high with the amount of light that it hitting it.. Adjustment of the camera to the right will also help stop the camera getting blasted by the light on the side of the wall as well. Again this will improve your night viewing ability..
 
Only ones that come to mind right now that can help but with the location of the camera and area of view right now not sure even these would help plus to be honest the Uniview is way over kill for this area but is one with advanced optics so I didn't want to not include it.. Owning the camera myself it is impressive but the cost kind of keeps it out of the reach for many.. That is the DX22GK-10 it is a very large bullet camera at 8lbs and as I said isn't designed for your current location but again didn't want to exclude because of that..

Dahua IPC-HDW5849H-ASE-LED (Full-color, glare-resistant).
Dahua SD5A445XA-HNR (PTZ with advanced optics).

Uniview IPC2328SB-DZK-I0 (anti-reflection bullet camera).
Uniview IPC254EB-DX22GK-I0 (AI bullet camera, designed to minimize glare).
 
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As an extreme, I used my Alibi 25x PTZ and lined up an Amcrest 841 both with IR on, If in the first picture I have the Alibi camera max zoomed out an then on the other picture with zoomed in to max and while it don't have as high power LEDs as my much older Amcrest PTZ, Anyway in the picture of the Alibi you can see the reflection is the IR of the Amcrest camera.. That is the only position that I could get it to reflect as the optics on the Alibi camera is ok not as high as some others.. But in the picture of the Amcrest camera you can see the junk and part of the window that I have on my deck. Then when i Zoom in the Alibi camera where the IR output did increase Not really to much of a high power you can see that the Amcrest camera adjusted the ability to make out much of what is on the deck now..
 

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You could put a window film over the camera side of the lamp glass on the outside to reduce the amount of light emitting to that side. Just make sure it's heat resistant and can take the temperatures. I wouldn't use anything reflective as you could cause excessive heat within the lamp if you reflect light (and heat) back in. Maybe something smoked. Other options are to move the lamp or camera or shield it in some other way. You could also try reducing the power of the bulb = less light but less glare. You shouldn't need huge lightbulbs to achieve enough light. With my 4Kt in my back yard, I can get a decent picture with just a 5w LED (around 400 lumens). You might want more, as 4KT very sesnsitive, but there's no need for huge bulbs. Also, look at other factors on the camera such as shutter speed. You want a fast shutter to ensure there's no blur. If the shutter is too slow or gain too high, then those 2 can exacerbate issues with too much light.
 
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You could put a window film over the camera side of the lamp glass on the outside to reduce the amount of light emitting to that side. Just make sure it's heat resistant and can take the temperatures. I wouldn't use anything reflective as you could cause excessive heat within the lamp if you reflect light (and heat) back in. Maybe something smoked. Other options are to move the lamp or camera or shield it in some other way. You could also try reducing the power of the bulb = less light but less glare. You shouldn't need huge lightbulbs to achieve enough light. With my 4Kt in my back yard, I can get a decent picture with just a 5w LED (around 400 lumens). You might want more, as 4KT very sesnsitive, but there's no need for huge bulbs. Also, look at other factors on the camera such as shutter speed. You want a fast shutter to ensure there's no blur. If the shutter is too slow or gain too high, then those 2 can exacerbate issues with too much light.

I got a Window Tint to try: BlackMagic Select Automotive Window Tint Film, 35% VLT

As far as the LED lightbulbs, I am starting to think it might be Lumens related as well and I should go down to 400 to try.

So far I've had Glares on both of these LEDs
Philips (8 watts/2700 K/800 lumens)

Eastiya (13 watts/5000 K/1200 lumens)

I have 1 light fixture by my garage door -- 2 cameras pointed to it (left/right)
Also 2 more light fixtures in my porch (1 camera pointed to them)
 
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Yeah normally using LED in the light fixtures is going to reduce the heat that would normally be generated that was why I said tint could be an option. Even with that normally they are heat resistant seeing they are in a Hot car exposed to heat from the sun so led would have little to no effect to that.. I did that to one of my lights 20 years ago maybe 15 anyway it took about 2 or 3 years before the bulb that was 100w incandescent to cause a hole to form in the film. 100w bulb of old put out some heat. These days LED is all that is sold anymore in the USA so shouldn't be an issue.. Difference was camera had crazy red blob from the light so once the film was in place that was gone.. Now days cameras are built better, It has been a few years since I have seen that on any cameras. I am sure I have one or 2 in my fleet that have that issue but installed in area where no direct light hits them so no issue..

About lowering your light output,. I would keep it as bright as you can to feel as safe as you can.. I am all for as bright of lights as one can use to help deter bad actors.. Some people feel it just gives them better light to do bad things. With combo of lights and cameras it has helped keep people out of my vehicles where others had there broken into and they didn't have such great lights or cameras so for me seems it still keeps them away at this point.. I mean someone bent on doing something bad is going to happen no matter what light or camera you have.

About other cameras and lights pointed in direction of camera.. It is position of the light and camera that causes the reflection off the sensor to glass back to sensor that causes the issue. Some times just moving that camera little more to the right can also make that light effect go away.. One it is getting glare off the wall as well as the light it self and from that it is causing the camera to change settings and reducing your ability to see quality night time footage at longer distance.. My guess is that your camera is a turret or bullet form factor if it was a dome camera the picture would be worse at that current location setup..

Be Safe..
 
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Also thought I would show a 2mp sensor that belongs to a zoom camera. This sensor would show the reflections off the coating on the sensor it self less the glass of the motorized lens. With flash you can see different color then without the flash on and is why you also see 2 different images in that halo, It is from the coating of different colors again can be from lens to sensor and just the sensor but still reflection within the lens of the camera..
 

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About lowering your light output,. I would keep it as bright as you can to feel as safe as you can.. I am all for as bright of lights as one can use to help deter bad actors.. Some people feel it just gives them better light to do bad things. With combo of lights and cameras it has helped keep people out of my vehicles where others had there broken into and they didn't have such great lights or cameras so for me seems it still keeps them away at this point.. I mean someone bent on doing something bad is going to happen no matter what light or camera you have.

Thank you, yeah I keep my car park indoor so that is not an issue, but we have had break-ins in the neighborhood in the past, and on my camera I always noticed the people who walk or drive who might have been the perpetrators avoided my side of the street as it has been very bright. The newest LED bulbs I got are very bright lumen wise and higher K's i.e. Eastiya (13 watts/5000 K/1200 lumens) vs Philips (8 watts/2700 K/800 lumens) and the Glare is about the same. I may try some 3/5W to try next. I'll also use the tint to see if it makes any difference. Thanks again for all the feedback.
 
Unfortunately the tint didn't help (it is facing the cameras on each side) , I even went back to an older Philips LED bulbs I have that are lower wattage/lumens.

I ordered the lowest wattage I could find, that I'll try tomorrow which are: 3 Watts, 300 lumens, soft white (2700k)

If those don't help, I'll reposition the cameras.

I don't get these issues on my back camera because it is farther from the lights and pointed slightly away

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So there is a good reduction in the reflection, I would add another run of film.. Also why is there still so much light on the sofit and siding still? is that coming from another area of the light?
 
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The light fixture back and front side don't have the tint film (toward garage door & outside), also the bottom of the fixture is open.

When I was outside looking at it, I was surprised how much light still goes through. This is 30%, I may have to look for a 5% one later on.
 
Also I may have to take a screenshot later this evening when it is total dark to match the same time as the first post.
 
I used a black window vinyl on my outside light on one side facing the camera. It was either designed for headlights or windows, I can't remember which now. It does really block the light though. I can't recommend it per se as I don't know about the heat resistance. It's not a tint but a proper coloured vinyl. I'm only using a 6w led and fixtures and bulbs vary. It's been alright on mine but......
 
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So looks like the glare is gone with the latest bulbs I tried from Amazon:
These are much lower wattage/lumens: ProPow (3 Watts / 300 lumens / soft white : 2700k) than previous ones which were: Eastiya (13 watts/5000 K/1200 lumens) vs Philips (8 watts/2700 K/800 lumens)

They are still pretty bright I have to say. The film tints are still there...

The other interesting tidbit, these are also "clear cover" see though, unlike the previous bulbs that were frosted.

I may try some higher wattage/lumens ones that are clear cover to compare.

Thanks everyone for your help on this!

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Looks much better but the main halo is still there just blends in now with what looks like light from another source. However knowing where the main lens reflection is can be seen just without the cone.. Because of the light off the side of the house the picture while it is much better then where you started, it is still lower then what it could be if the camera was pointed more to the right.. If you happen to monitor your cameras feed, When you see the car/truck leave or enter the driveway across the street with brakes on or headlights if they back in should be enough to cause your camera to dip in auto adjustments to try and help for overexposure then you will see what is also happening to your camera right now full time from the light reflection off the house.. Just trying to help give you the clearest view from your camera.

Happy New Year.
 
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likewise! Thank you.

I am pretty much satisfied at this point. I ordered some new Philips dusk to dawn that are clear, I'll try those next. The only thing I noticed with these new lights is that when I go back to my original 8.33 shutter speed (it's in Auto right now), the screen flickers at the floor below the lamp. I noticed it only goes away if I change the anti-flicker to 50hz or set the shutter speed to 10ms.
 
I'd be very surprised if it was the clear glass and not the lumens to blame. The purpose of the coating is to produce a more diffused light. A clear glass just provides a more intense point of light.

Try anti-flicker & see how it looks with and without for the overall quality and with movement at night. I'd say 10ms is a little slow, but not totally dreadful for a shutter speed. I use 4ms but then again I'm using 4kt's which are particularly light sensitive. AF might be your answer. Otherwise, you could just live with the rolling shutter you see in the light. I get it in my picture when my next door neighbours fluorecent garage lights are switched on and shine over onto my driveway. I live with it as the overall picture is good and I have other lights that come on when someone intrudes anyway which solve the issue.
 
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