Got the cameras working !! security system next!!

Joined
Jul 15, 2019
Messages
4
Reaction score
5
Location
USA
Hello everyone. I've been lurking at this website before, but wanted to check the "New member" box as I would looking for some help to DIY an upgrade on my existing wired security system.

With the increase in crime here in Oklahoma City. I think my 30 yr old system is due for an upgrade. All windows/doors are prewired just need to figure out the Control Panel and t a couple of keypads.

Will be posting soon!!
 

The Automation Guy

Known around here
Joined
Feb 7, 2019
Messages
1,429
Reaction score
2,844
Location
USA
Welcome.

One question you need to answer is if the old system was using resistors at the end of the line (EOL) to monitor the status of the wiring itself. The resistor provides a known amount of resistance to the alarm panel so that if a wire was cut (which would cause the resistance to go to zero) the alarm panel would trigger an alert because the wiring "was bad". Without a EOL resistor the alarm panel normally sees a zero resistance so it can't monitor if the wire has been cut or if it is working properly. Another thing to look for is if the installer "jumpered" the EOL resistors across the zone wiring at the alarm panel. This is bad because the panel will always see the correct resistance, even if the wire is cut, because the resistor isn't at the end of the wire. Any wire located beyond the resistor isn't being monitored. It's quite common for installers to do this because they are lazy and don't want to install the resistors at the end of each zone.

I ask because different alarm system use different resistor values for the EOL resistor. It would be easiest if you can find a replacement system that uses the same EOL resistor as your current system.
 
Joined
Jul 15, 2019
Messages
4
Reaction score
5
Location
USA
Welcome.

One question you need to answer is if the old system was using resistors at the end of the line (EOL) to monitor the status of the wiring itself. The resistor provides a known amount of resistance to the alarm panel so that if a wire was cut (which would cause the resistance to go to zero) the alarm panel would trigger an alert because the wiring "was bad". Without a EOL resistor the alarm panel normally sees a zero resistance so it can't monitor if the wire has been cut or if it is working properly. Another thing to look for is if the installer "jumpered" the EOL resistors across the zone wiring at the alarm panel. This is bad because the panel will always see the correct resistance, even if the wire is cut, because the resistor isn't at the end of the wire. Any wire located beyond the resistor isn't being monitored. It's quite common for installers to do this because they are lazy and don't want to install the resistors at the end of each zone.

I ask because different alarm system use different resistor values for the EOL resistor. It would be easiest if you can find a replacement system that uses the same EOL resistor as your current system.
Hi there. Thanks for the observation. I don't believe I have EOL resistors but I need to look closer. The sensors are as follows:

  • Regular magnet type for the windows/door
  • Glass break sensors on the large windows.
  • Motion sensors
  • Wired smoker detectors

As I understand EOL will be just resistor between the wire an the sensor? If that is the case I didn't see them.

I'm attaching pictures of the a control panel, remote keypad (x2) and wiring diagram for your reference.

Questions:

  1. Assuming there are no EOL sensors.. can this panel essentially be swapped out with an updated version? Assume brand is not relevant?
  2. What do I need to take in to account to find a compatible replacement panel? (in addition to same or greater number of zones and inputs for remote keypad)
  3. We removed/damaged some motion sensors during a room renovation. Wires might be still behind dry wall. Do II need to worry about this or can I trace this back when installing the new panel?
Thanks!!
 

Attachments

Teken

Known around here
Joined
Aug 11, 2020
Messages
1,763
Reaction score
3,149
Location
Canada
Hi there. Thanks for the observation. I don't believe I have EOL resistors but I need to look closer. The sensors are as follows:

  • Regular magnet type for the windows/door
  • Glass break sensors on the large windows.
  • Motion sensors
  • Wired smoker detectors

As I understand EOL will be just resistor between the wire an the sensor? If that is the case I didn't see them.

I'm attaching pictures of the a control panel, remote keypad (x2) and wiring diagram for your reference.

Questions:

  1. Assuming there are no EOL sensors.. can this panel essentially be swapped out with an updated version? Assume brand is not relevant?
  2. What do I need to take in to account to find a compatible replacement panel? (in addition to same or greater number of zones and inputs for remote keypad)
  3. We removed/damaged some motion sensors during a room renovation. Wires might be still behind dry wall. Do II need to worry about this or can I trace this back when installing the new panel?
Thanks!!
If all of the wiring is in place you just have to replace the panel, keypads, and sensors. As the other member noted if there were EOL resistors in place it doesn't matter you're going to replace them anyways. :thumb: If the home is under renovations and wiring can still be run this is a good time to have the following in place.

Keypad: One should be at the entrance, another in the master bedroom.
Hold Up: Wire a dedicated hold up / burglary button in the closet.
Back Up: The system should have at least two methods to communicate - POTS, IP, Cellular
Exterior Siren: There should be one siren installed in the garage in the rafters.
Strobe: An exterior strobe should be installed high mounted on the house.
Sensors: The following sensors and zones should be monitored - Contact, glass, low temp, smoke / co, leak, sump, all doors & windows especially the GDO. The latest dual tech sensors which use Microwave & PIR is a must.

Grounding: The main panel and the enclosure must be protected by a SPD and directly connected to the homes single point earth grounding system.

Duress: Set up a duress code and pass phrase with the Central Station (CS). Confirm this is properly setup in the panel and validate the same at the CS. Time how long it takes for the CS to call and they Challenge you with the pass phrase.

One is the standard password where everything is normal say: Happy

The other (duress phrase) like: Broken Arrow

If the CSR receives this pass phrase (Broken Arrow) the only response and behavior from CSR is.

Mr. Smith I really appreciate you confirming everything is fine - have a great day![/quote]


If they don't respond like the above and begin panicking or start asking you 20 questions - You'll have a hole in your head if someone is holding a gun to your head as they are standing there listening with you.

Test, Confirm, Validate . . .
 
Last edited:

The Automation Guy

Known around here
Joined
Feb 7, 2019
Messages
1,429
Reaction score
2,844
Location
USA
As I understand EOL will be just resistor between the wire an the sensor? If that is the case I didn't see them.

I'm attaching pictures of the a control panel, remote keypad (x2) and wiring diagram for your reference.

Questions:

  1. Assuming there are no EOL sensors.. can this panel essentially be swapped out with an updated version? Assume brand is not relevant?
  2. What do I need to take in to account to find a compatible replacement panel? (in addition to same or greater number of zones and inputs for remote keypad)
  3. We removed/damaged some motion sensors during a room renovation. Wires might be still behind dry wall. Do II need to worry about this or can I trace this back when installing the new panel?
Thanks!!
There will only be one resistor at the end of each zone wire. So it won't be at every sensor. That being said, I really doubt you have any EOL resistors. You already mentioned that you removed some sensors and if the alarm didn't give you some alert about it, it proves that there aren't any EOL resistors. They are also not installed at the panel (they would be jumpered across each zone input).

EOL resistors are always optional. Even on systems that support them, you don't have to turn that feature on. In your case, I wouldn't worry about it. The odds of a criminal cutting a line in a residential setting is basically zero. The EOL sensors are really just to notify you if you break a wire or put a nail through one while hanging a picture, etc.

Most modern panels will also support wireless sensors. I would absolutely use wired sensors any chance I could. They are cheaper and more reliable (ie no batteries to go dead). But even in my system I have some wireless sensors where running a new sensor wire was just going to be a real PITA.

I haven't looked at alarm panels in over a decade, but I think you would be safe going with anything from DSC. It's a large alarm manufacture that has been in the game a long time.
 
Last edited:
Top