Need outdoor dome camera recommendation for Houseboat

M

Michael James

Getting the hang of it
Dec 20, 2016
274
41
All,
I am using Blue Iris 4.x software and looking to replace a newly purchased Foscam VZ4 security dome camera. It went out after a month and I wasnt happy with it to begin with.

This is for the back of a houseboat facing out into the water. I am using it as a reverse camera but also when we are tied up, I will have people swimming off the back.
I want as wide and high/low of an angle as possible. It will be mounted under the ceiling right up against the back wall adjacent to the bedroom. That's where I have power.
I can ONLY run wireless. (No chance of getting an ethernet cable to it). Also, my router is in the front half of the boat. That cant be moved either. Its an Asus Blue Cave router. Its about 60 feet from router to this location.
When I use the WIFI Intensity app on my android phone, I'm getting 49% (Fair) or 50% (Good) on the meter. So I need a camera that is VERY good at keeping a steady reception/connection over this distance.
Budget is $100-250-ish
Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Michael James said:
All,
I am using Blue Iris 4.x software and looking to replace a newly purchased Foscam VZ4 security dome camera. It went out after a month and I wasnt happy with it to begin with.

This is for the back of a houseboat facing out into the water. I am using it as a reverse camera but also when we are tied up, I will have people swimming off the back.
I want as wide and high/low of an angle as possible. It will be mounted under the ceiling right up against the back wall adjacent to the bedroom. That's where I have power.
I can ONLY run wireless. (No chance of getting an ethernet cable to it). Also, my router is in the front half of the boat. That cant be moved either. Its an Asus Blue Cave router. Its about 60 feet from router to this location.
When I use the WIFI Intensity app on my android phone, I'm getting 49% (Fair) or 50% (Good) on the meter. So I need a camera that is VERY good at keeping a steady reception/connection over this distance.
Budget is $100-250-ish
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

I might be willing to go higher on price as well for a better camera
 
You might want to consider using a powerline ethernet adapter. That assumes, and we know what that can do, that you have AC if you're dead set on an IP/PoE camera.

Honestly, you want a traditional composite video camera if you plan on using it for backing up the boat. An IP/PoE camera has an intrinsic lag in the video stream, to the tune of a second or two, which can be very critical when backing up. Throw in the risk of signal drops with WiFi and you'll be flirting with disaster. That's why camera systems for trucks and RVs are actually CVA and run on coax.
 
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So lets change this for a second. If Im not using it as a backup camera, but just want to use it for security on the back of the boat, what would you recommend ?
 
In reality any PoE camera can be made "wireless" in one way or another. The power line adapter is just one example. You could also use a dedicated encrypted wireless link like a Ubuiquity Nano Station Loco M5. There are other, less expensive, wireless links available but they aren't as reliable or robustly built. It all depends on your budget, expertise and a little configuration time. I'd tend to go with the Nano Station first and a powerline adapter second.

As far as a camera I would suggest something with an all plastic housing. The environmental problems on a boat, especially salt air, will corrode the heck out of the "aluminum" used for most IP camera cases. Getting it apart after year or so of exposure to the elements can be a real problem. There have been numerous posts from people with beach and shore houses looking for advice on how to get a camera apart that has, basically, fused together with corrosion.

The biggest key is the sensor size versus resolution. A decent 2MP camera will have a 1/2.8" sensor. A decent 4MP camera will have a 1/1.8" sensor. The next thing is the focal length of the lens. I think 2.8mm would be too wide so I'd probably go with a 3.6mm lens, fixed focal length in both cases.

I have no idea which camera models will have plastic housings and the proper sensor size. I'd suggest you contact Andy at EmpireTech and ask him. He can supply the camera, is an expert with the Dahua model line and is a very reputable source towork with.


Andy
IPCT Thread

EmpireTech Andy

Dahua products
ipcamtalk.com ipcamtalk.com

Andy's Store

King Security/EmpireTech Store

Email
Andy Wang kingsecurity2014@163.com
 
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Other than plug everything together there's nothing to do since it's a "transparent" device. It should pass ONVIF information just as easily as it passes the video stream or any other packet. All it does is pass packets, traffic, and has no idea what the data inside the packet actually is. Just keep them out of the weather and they should work well. If there is a problem it can be related to which phase of the 220 line each is on unless your boat is only supplied with 120. If you do have 220 remember that it is "split" to provide the 110-120 that most of our devices work on so it is possible to end up on a different side of the split. If that happens try a different outlet for one of them.
 
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Another comment. If you end up with a camera with a metal housing be sure to use silicon lube on every screw you can get to. Also remember that stainless, while it won't corrode as easily, is a different metal than aluminum and the galvanic action when combined with salt air and water will be greatly accelerated as a result. I'd say be very generous with the silicon lube.
 
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If you mount that near the camera and inside the boat with a direct line of sight to the router it should work as well. You would need to configure it to work with your router. I'd make sure it is on a different channel that the rest of the WIFi gear that you're using to make sure saturation is never a problem.

Even with no salt water the moisture will enhance galvanic action. Use some silicon. It's cheap and easy and can pay off if you need to replace it or adjust it. Plus it's just good practice in a case like this.
 
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Since I have power at the camera but no ethernet from the camera to the router... Is there a wifi product that would sit in between my router and the camera (to expand the range) and then have a 2nd unit with an ethernet port that would be next to the camera to plug the camera into?
 
I'm concerned the wiring on a houseboat could be an issue..yes its wired for 110 and 220. I also want something very simple that is plug and play and will work well with Blue iris to configure the camera.
 
What is the physical distance between where an access point would be located and the router? A houseboat, unless we're talking about "Stately Manor" sizes, aren't all that big. Are the partition walls and exterior walls metal or non-metallic? You could try a camera that supports WiFi and wired to try it out. The one below is fairly inexpensive and produces good video during the day. Some people have used them outdoors in protected locations so it might work OK for you plus it is pan and tilt, no zoom. Here are link to the 2 and 4MP versions. Even with a WiFi camera you will need a wire to supply power.

Amcrest inexpensive indoor PTZ
 
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Houseboat is 18 x 85 foot. Router is 60 feet to back of boat. But there is metal around the backside walls.
 
Is there a wifi product that would sit in between my router and the camera (to expand the range) and then have a 2nd unit with an ethernet port that would be next to the camera to plug the camera into? I'm getting 49 out of 100 on WIFI meter in the location where this is mounted
 
I don't use WiFi much at all, other than for laptops, phone and tablets in the house but not on cameras at all. The Asus router I use handles that with no problems in a standard frame house so I don't have much experience with WiFi extenders or access points. The coverage here extends well out into the yard so it's never even been on my radar. I do use a Nano Station Loco to link an outbuilding to the house but that's more for electrical isolation than anything else. I'd say any quality extender/access point should work. If you buy from Amazon you can always return it if it doesn't work out. The same is true of a powerline adapter. Stick with Netgear or any of the decent name brands and you should be OK.
 
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So.. I am actually able to run a 100 foot Ethernet Cable Cat6 from my Asus Blue Cave router to the rear camera on the houseboat. That's good news. I also have a power plug where it will be mounted as well.
So now I have more options to consider. This will be mounted under the back 8 foot ceiling. its mounted against the back wall and the ceiling goes out about 10 feet. I'm trying to get the widest horizontal and widest vertical I can get, because I want to see below me (where the engines are), out into the water (see who is floating in the water) and see widest angle possible to capture the whole back of the boat. At night, it is pitch black, so I need good IR's to see into the darkness. I want to see people who might break into the boat, capture people who might fall into the water, especially at night. I would like to see as far out into the water when its dark outside.

I'm comparing 3 different cameras. I'm wondering how the night vision is on this one?
IPC-T5541H-AS-PV 2.8MM
Amazon.com: Loryta IPC-T5541H-AS-PV 2.8MM Fixed Lens 5MP WDR IR Eyeball AI Network Camera English Version: Home Improvement

The other ones Im looking at are the following:

Amazon.com : EmpireTech IPC-T5442T-ZE White 4MP IR Vari-Focal Eyeball Starlight Network Camera English Version Support POE and ePOE : Camera & Photo
Amazon.com : EmpireTech Security Surveillance Camera 4 MP ColorVu Fixed Turret Colorful Camera DS-2CD2347G2-LU 4MM English Version : Camera & Photo

This is the Foscam camera I am replacing due to a lack of what I am looking for above. I am attaching pictures of what it takes right now. It drops all the time probably because its WIFI and its metal back there. not to mention most Foscams are just overall not dependable.

Amazon.com : 4MP Outdoor Security WiFi Camera, Foscam 4X Optical Zoom PT Surveillance Dome Camera, Supports 2.4G/5G Dual-Band WiFi Connection, 66ft Night Vision, IK10, MicroSD Recording (128GB), White(VZ4) : Camera & Photo

Any other suggestions here?

 

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You're going to have to get it further astern and if at all possible lower down to get get the view you're looking for. I'd suggest getting the camera and setting it up in a test stand, five gallon bucket full of sand or rocks and a 2x4-8 in it to mount the camera to. Alternately a 2x4 clamped to a step ladder.

The 5MP camera is on a 1/2.7" sensor and won't perform really well at night unless there's a good amount of ambient light for color or IR for B&W. Either the Dahua 5442 or the Hikvision are the ones to seriously consider. Bother are 4MP on a 1/1.8" sensor which is a very good combination for low light. I seriously doubt any camera, within a reasonable price range, could maintain full color at night in that location. If you really want to see further at night I'd use auxiliary IR lights. As an example I have a rather large one for the back yard here. It lights up the entire back yard with IR so the cameras are seeing out to about 200-220 feet with pretty good clarity and decent quality video. You will find that the ratings from manufacturers on these kinds of IR lights are just a tad on the optimistic side.


Be aware that both the Dahua and Hikvision will need to be "tuned" in terms of shutter speed, gain, brightness, contrast and so on for your location. If left on "auto", default setting from the factory, they will both produce amazing video at night until motion occurs. Then you'll just have a blurry, ghosted image of something happening. The shutter, at night in particular, needs to be set no slower than 1/60, 16.66 milliseconds, and preferably higher to insure good motion capture.
 
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The varifocal is probably the best choice since you can set it for the view you want and aren't limited to one focal length. Remember it's not a zoom camera and isn't really meant to be used as one. They should be set at installation and basically left at that focal length. The "zoom" mechanism isn't designed for constant use. I believe it will go from about 2.8mm to 12mm focal length. 2.8mm is a pretty wide field of view. I assumed you were looking at a 2.8 to get the wide view with detail close up, both on the aft deck and the water just to the stern.

That mount would work and you can cut the down tube, if I remember correctly, if it's too long.
 
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