Tapcon Screws vs Sleeve and Anchor for Brick Wall Installation

[tygger]

I plan to install a turret cam onto an exterior brick wall. I will attach the cam to a generic junction box so that if I decide to swap out the camera at a later point in time, I could simply re-drill holes into the lid. I originally wanted to go with the junction box designed for the camera, in this case, the Dahua box for the 4431, but that box isn't compatible with other cameras. There's no lid. It fits directly over the box opening.

What's the best way to mount the junction box to a brick wall? Simply use Tapcon screws or should I an anchor and sleeve?

Thanks

 

[zero-degrees]

6 to one half dozen to another...

Regardless of your choice just assure you use proper water sealant around any holes created or made into brick. Personally I would use Tapcon's - Sleeve and Anchors fail if used incorrectly because the pre-drill hole is made to large so the bond is loose and can be pulled out or slowly works out over time - your not pulling a tapcon screw out by hand.

 

[PSPCommOp]

I originally mounted my Hik turret into my cinder block wall and used Tapcon. They are monsters. I may have overdone it with the 2 1/4" but it anchored the junction boxes for that turret just fine. Used 4 in those boxes and it wasn't moving at all.

I also used them on the junction box down the line for the conduit. 4 screws and its set and not going anywhere. I've also used them for mounting flag poles in brick. Just make sure you drill accordingly with the 1/4" past the depth of the screw and you won't run into any issues.

On a side note, I planned on using sealant along the top rim in case any water got inside but realized I couldn't get the angle I wanted and decided to move them to the underhang of the deck they were under instead. Depending on the particular lens for that camera make sure you get the view and angle you want, no point in drilling and anchoring if you get down off the ladder and look at the view and are like WTF like I was.

 

[Ford]

Tapcons are my last choice.... Too many times they either strip out or stall before fully to depth and break off.

The quickest and sturdiest fasteners are these bad boys: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-1-4-in-x-3-in-Hammer-Set-Nail-Drive-Concrete-Anchors-25-Pack-35207/203064111 Note: Don't use these if you want to remove things easily...

The next choice are the wedge-anchors : https://www.confast.com/products/thunderstud-anchor.aspx

Either choice is miles better than tapcons or sleeves.

 

[tygger]

The Tapcon reviews have me worried... mostly negs with either the screw head breaking off or the screw pulling out using the supplied drill bit.

The hammer-set nail anchors look interesting. Not sure I'm ready for the long term commitment haha.

Looks like the wedge anchor is for concrete only. I need something for brick.

 

[tangent]

If you want overkill you can always epoxy in some threaded rod. Drilling precise holes in masonry is never easy. The sleeve anchors often spec some odd size drill bit nobody actually has.

 

[Ford]

If it is a mini turret cam, (not a big honking old school unit), I would normally use plastic anchors... They are more than strong enough (if you get them from a fastener house, not the dollar store downtime street).

Typical example: http://www.toggler.com/pdf/alligator.pdf

The AF6 takes a #6 to #12 screw and in low strength concrete (probably quite similar to your brick) has a pull-out strength of 675 pounds... that should do the trick!

 

[PSPCommOp]

I'm. It sure the wed anchors are practical for this, you're gonna need a nut to screw onto that and I know with my HikVis turret, there would be a way to get a nut around that actor and screw it on appropriately. It's got a grove on the base that is countersunk to accept a screw head that a nut won't be able to get down into.


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[PSPCommOp]

And Tapcon are more then enough, just use a drill on a low speed. Drill deep enough with a bit beforehand as is directed on the package and as soon as u get to where it should stop, just stop. Simple as that


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[tangent]

It's a lot easier to drill into the mortar than the brick itself.

 

[pal251]

If you want overkill you can always epoxy in some threaded rod. Drilling precise holes in masonry is never easy. The sleeve anchors often spec some odd size drill bit nobody actually has.

Never heard of that, can you describe further?

 

[pal251]

use something like this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-8-6-oz-Fast-Setting-Anchoring-Epoxy-862030/203604177

 

[tangent]

Never heard of that, can you describe further?

I was being a bit facetious. Threaded rod is commonly epoxied into things like foundations and deck footings. Obviously doing this for a junction box would require much smaller rod and would be ridiculous.

In all seriousness though, if you ever have a sleeve anchor pull out you could epoxy it in place.

 

[Saratim2020]

Keeping your demand in view, I would suggest you use Tapcon screws instead of sleeve anchors. They are very much effective. I also did the same at my house. I used 2 1/4" Tapcon screw but it anchored the junction boxes for that turret box. I Used 4 in those boxes and it was stiff.

I also used them on the junction box down the line. Four screws were used and were set and not even moving. I've also used them for mounting a flag pole in a brick. Just make sure you drill properly with the 1/4" past the depth of the screw and you will not encounter any issues.

 

[DsineR]

The Tapcon reviews have me worried... mostly negs with either the screw head breaking off or the screw pulling out using the supplied drill bit.

The hammer-set nail anchors look interesting. Not sure I'm ready for the long term commitment haha.

Looks like the wedge anchor is for concrete only. I need something for brick.

Go with a sleeve anchor for brick. Used 3/8" x 4" anchor to secure porch post & railings, worked great.
Size anchor accordingly.

 

[samplenhold]

This thread is 4 years old. I think the OP already mounted his cam.