YCC 365plus. Unable to get it to stream outside of the phone app.

[jo9noah]

To preface, this is my first 'IP camera', For a few weeks now, I've been working on this with no success. I've read every thread about this model and searched Google; it appears that people can stream using it with a little assistance. I'm unable to for some reason.​

​

So far, all I've got to work is the PTZ controls, but can't get an image. Which seems odd, everything I've read people are having the opposite problem. I've tried, iSpy, Blue Iris, and a few other software's. According to Blue Iris is The Manufacturer - EYEPLUS Model EYEPLUS_DEV, Firmware - 16.9.4.0301 I've tried the credentials from other posts, admin:12345, admin:123456, admin with blank password, and for good measures leaving both fields blank, all without luck.​

One of these is the camera. The mobile app is glitchy, but it functions. My goal is to somehow get it working on one of these programs, blocking the device from accessing the internet and enjoying the added security it brings. I just prefer not to have a random Chinese camera sending out any data to their servers.​

Does anyone have any ideas or tips, Is there something I'm doing incorrectly? Please let me know if you require any additional information, and I will post it.​

Thank you!​

 

[wittaj]

What user/password are you using in the app?

Post a screenshot of the window that pops up from BI when you hit the find/inspect button.

And are you sure this isn't a cloud-based camera? Most of these are. It may need internet access to work and if so then you cannot block it from the internet.

 

[jo9noah]

What user/password are you using in the app?

Post a screenshot of the window that pops up from BI when you hit the find/inspect button.

And are you sure this isn't a cloud-based camera? Most of these are. It may need internet access to work and if so then you cannot block it from the internet.

The app has you signup using an email rather than a username.
It probably is cloud-based, but just being able to not use the buggy software where it disconnects constantly and an insect causes 40 motion alerts to go off would be a big win. Until I can get a better budget camera.

 

[wittaj]

Many cloud-based use proprietary software that doesn't allow it to be seen in other platforms.

That screenshot doesn't tell me anything.

Go to Add camera, type in IP address and username and password and hit the find/inspect button and a window will pop up that shows you what BI is testing the camera against to try to find a video stream, but will need to see everything it shows.

 

[wittaj]

Wifi and cameras do not go together and that is why it is cutting out and putting it in Blue Iris won't help the situation.

Cameras connected to Wifi routers (whether wifi or not) are problematic for surveillance cameras because they are always streaming and passing data. And the data demands go up with motion and then you lose signal. A lost packet and it has to resend. It can bring the whole network down if trying to send cameras through a wifi router. At the very least it can slow down your entire system.

Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent, especially once you start adding distance. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes - mine goes 45 seconds. Now do the same with a camera connected to a router and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...

Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras, and since they do not buffer, you get these issues. The consumer routers are just not designed for this kind of traffic, even a GB speed router.

Many people unfortunately think wifi cameras are the answer and they are not. People will say what about Ring and Nest - well that is another whole host of issues that we will not discuss here LOL, but they are not streaming 24/7, only when you pull up the app. And then we see all the people come here after that system failed them because their wifi couldn't keep up when the perp came by. For streaming 24/7 to something like an NVR or Blue Iris, forget about it if you want reliability.

 

[jo9noah]

What user/password are you using in the app?

Post a screenshot of the window that pops up from BI when you hit the find/inspect button.

And are you sure this isn't a cloud-based camera? Most of these are. It may need internet access to work and if so then you cannot block it from the internet.

The app has you signup using an email rather than a username.
It probably is cloud-based, but just being able to not use the buggy software where it disconnects constantly and a insect causes 40 motion alerts to go off would be a big win.

Many cloud-based use proprietary software that doesn't allow it to be seen in other platforms.

That screenshot doesn't tell me anything.

Go to Add camera, type in IP address and username and password and hit the find/inspect button and a window will pop up that shows you what BI is testing the camera against to try to find a video stream, but will need to see everything it shows.

View attachment 151981

Sorry misunderstood,

 

[jo9noah]

Wifi and cameras do not go together and that is why it is cutting out and putting it in Blue Iris won't help the situation.

Cameras connected to Wifi routers (whether wifi or not) are problematic for surveillance cameras because they are always streaming and passing data. And the data demands go up with motion and then you lose signal. A lost packet and it has to resend. It can bring the whole network down if trying to send cameras through a wifi router. At the very least it can slow down your entire system.

Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent, especially once you start adding distance. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes - mine goes 45 seconds. Now do the same with a camera connected to a router and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...

Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras, and since they do not buffer, you get these issues. The consumer routers are just not designed for this kind of traffic, even a GB speed router.

Many people unfortunately think wifi cameras are the answer and they are not. People will say what about Ring and Nest - well that is another whole host of issues that we will not discuss here LOL, but they are not streaming 24/7, only when you pull up the app. And then we see all the people come here after that system failed them because their wifi couldn't keep up when the perp came by. For streaming 24/7 to something like an NVR or Blue Iris, forget about it if you want reliability.

That's very good to know, never really thought about the WIFI aspect of it, I assumed it was cutting out due to being restricted to the 2G bands. Do you have any suggestions for a $50 or less camera? So, going wired ethernet connectivity is the way to go for security cameras?

 

[wittaj]

Many that want to use wifi cams will have an old wifi router that is not connected to the internet and all that is on it is the camera.

Indoors, the IP2M-841 is a cheap common camera choice. Works with Dahua NVR and Blue Iris. Has wifi and ability to use POE with this adapter. Has two-way talk and basic autotracking.

 

[jo9noah]

Many that want to use wifi cams will have an old wifi router that is not connected to the internet and all that is on it is the camera.

Indoors, the IP2M-841 is a cheap common camera choice. Works with Dahua NVR and Blue Iris. Has wifi and ability to use POE with this adapter. Has two-way talk and basic autotracking.

Apologies, should of clarified, an outdoor camera.

 

[wittaj]

Amcrest makes decent budget cams that can be used outdoors, but not in PTZ form around 50ish.

 

[jo9noah]

Amcrest makes decent budget cams that can be used outdoors, but not in PTZ form around 50ish.

I was going to ask if you knew of any with PTZ compatibility but a quick amazon search, those are quite pricey. That model could work, just would need to position it in a good spot with the 103 field of view. How is the night vision on it? A few reviews state that there needs to be some sort of external light source, not sure how true that is.

 

[wittaj]

The cheaper cameras use cheaper sensor, so night vision isn't as good.

But the biggest issue with the cheaper cameras are they are on sensors designed for 720P or 1080P cameras, so when you throw 4MP or 8MP on them, at night the image suffers because it would need 4 to 8 times more light than a 2MP that is on the same size sensor.

So to make the image brighter, people either crank up the brightness or slow down the shutter, which then makes it difficult to identify moving objects.

The better cameras on ideal MP/sensor ratio can probably go into color whereas the smaller sensor cams probably do not get enough light to go into color.

Sensor size is a big deal.

Now you won't know what you don't know and won't know what you are missing until you have experienced a the cheaper cam that is a higher resolution camera on a sensor designed for a lower resolution.

Most people here buy surveillance cameras to capture clean images of perps at night and they are not going to stop and pose for a picture...If it can capture in the night, then it will capture in the day....

Any camera can have settings set to provide a nice bright static image at night by slowing the shutter down and cranking up the gain, but then motion is useless.

Almost any camera can do well in the daytime with enough light, even cameras that are 8MP put on a sensor designed for 2MP. But keep in mind that usually the processor and other stuff are still designed around 2MP, so the camera struggles trying to keep up with 8MP worth of data.

In most instances, you want to get a camera that will perform at your location for the worse situation - which for most of us is at night when it is dark and there is little to no light.

If a camera performs at night, it is easier to tweak settings to make it work during the day than it is the other way around. The cameras will certainly perform better in the day.

Once you get a camera on the proper MP/sensor ratio, you will see how underperforming a 4MP on a 1/3" sensor is (which is the common MP/sensor ratio of budget cams)...

Here is another real world example with a deer. Even with a floodlight, there simply wasn't enough light to make the cheaper 4MP on the 1/2.7" sensor (which is larger than the 1/3" sensor that many cheap cams are on) go into color:

And a 4MP on the 1/1.8" sensor camera (different deer LOL) that the camera was able to go to color based on the larger sensor:

Which do you think is the better image?