Z12 Seal Failure Repair (water fogging inside camera)

guykuo

guykuo

Getting comfortable
Jul 7, 2018
722
2,119
Sammamish, WA
After about six years exposure to elements, Z12 camera was internally fogging with moisture. This is the 2nd unit I have repaired in this manner. My prior repaired unit has been back in service x 2 years without further issues. This procedure only addresses the two gaskets. I have not needed to re-seal the cable entry at camera rear.



Tools and Materials

Food dehydrator to dry out camera interior and regenerate silica gell pack
0 food dehydrator.jpg
Silicone grease
2 silicon grease.jpg
PHY1 and Torx 10 screw bits (Will also need Torx 15 that came with camera)
1 phy1 and torx 10 bits.jpg
Foam tip applicators

Brass wire brush
 
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Preheat entire camera to 130 F in dehydrator. Having camera warmed makes peeling of trim easier.

Once warmed, peel off thin trim from front of camera to reveal four Torx 10 screws. Peel off neatly and avoid deforming the trim piece. You will need to stick it back on camera at end of repair.

Four Torx 10 screws will be revealed.
4 peel off front trim.jpg


IMPORTANT -
OPEN the SD card access hatch now. It must be open to enable rest of repair.
3 open hatch.jpg
 
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Regenerate the silica pack at 156F for four hours. By the book, one would use higher temperature, but I have had good results at 156F if extra time is allowed. You can optionally supplement with fresh silica desiccant packs. There is space for original + two 5 gram packs.

Remove both rubber gaskets from camera (front and SD card slot). Thoroughly clean metal mating surfaces and inside the grooves. A wire brush helps if water deposits are on the metal surfaces.

Near end of gel pack regeneration time, decrease dehumidifier temperature to 140F and place entire, disassembled camera into dehydrator for 20 minutes to drive off any moisture inside camera components. Do not leave temp at 156F as I don't know if the optical components can tolerate 156F.

Remove the camera and silica packets from dehydrator.

Place silica packs in rear of camera housing and slide camera module back into housing. Be careful to avoid folding over the thermal pad as you slide the module into place. If any dust is on the camera lens, now is the time to blow the lens clean.

Secure module with the four PHY1 screws.
 
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Just curious if you need the dehydrator. We got a new stove and it has a dehydrate function but only goes down to 175F. But, I'd be affraid of putting the camera in at that temperature.
I'm wondering if you couldn't get away with heating the camera up with a hair dryer instead. A dehydrator would be much easier because you could put it in there for 30 minutes or so and come back versus waiving a hair dryer at the camera for that long.
A little while ago I recharged some silica packets in the toaster oven. It took longer than I thought. So, in a dehydrator you may want to keep them in there for at least a few hours.
guykuo said:
Regenerate the silica pack at 156F for four hours. By the book, one would use higher temperature, but I have had good results at 156F if extra time is allowed. You can optionally supplement with fresh silica desiccant packs. There is space for original + two 5 gram packs.

Remove both rubber gaskets from camera (front and SD card slot). Thoroughly clean metal mating surfaces and inside the grooves. A wire brush helps if water deposits are on the metal surfaces.

Near end of gel pack regeneration time, decrease dehumidifier temperature to 140F and place entire, disassembled camera into dehydrator for 20 minutes to drive off any moisture inside camera components. Do not leave temp at 156F as I don't know if the optical components can tolerate 156F.

Remove the camera and silica packets from dehydrator.

Place silica packs in rear of camera housing and slide camera module back into housing. Be careful to avoid folding over the thermal pad as you slide the module into place. If any dust is on the camera lens, now is the time to blow the lens clean.

Secure module with the four PHY1 screws.
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting this. This is really good information. Maybe someone could move it over to the Wiki?
Just to be clear there is room for a total of (4) 5 gram packs? If I go through this when my Z12's have this problem (and it appears they will), I'll just get some color changing packets to be sure I'm starting with good ones.
Also, there appears to be some space in the areas in green below. Would there be a problem putting larger silica packets in that area? I guess the manufacturer doesn't put them there for a reason.


1668106113403.png
 
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Yes, four of the 5 gram packets would fit just fine.

I have a dehydrator for drying 3D print filament spools. So, it was convenient for this repair. Provides controlled heat with adequate AIRFLOW to dehydrate.
 
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So one can pick up that food dehydrator for $150 on Amazon. That is a little more than half the cost of replacing the cam. All the other costs are trivial.

I suppose if I ever need to do this, I could learn to eat dehydrated food.

Thanks for this info. I like the directions and pictures you supplied. Good job.
 
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I'm guessing a cheaper alternative might be to dry the unit with a hairdryer and then place the unit in a small space eg cupboard under the stairs with a dehumidifier if you already have one. Might be worth a try for anyone who doesn't want to fork out for a drying unit but already has a dehumidifier.

Only methodolgy I'd change is I can't really see the point in drying the original silica pack out, when you can replace it.

Excellent write up and discovery though and many thanks for sharing it. Hopefully it will save many others cameras from the graveyard.
 
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So now I have to convince the girls we need a food dehydrator.....for the security system.......no problem.....:)
 
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