Suggestions for adding a network jack outside.

avspin

avspin

Getting the hang of it
Jan 18, 2021
114
65
Reno, NV
So I have a couple of wireless cameras and want to change to wired. I have power outside near where I want the jacks. I cannot run a new cat6 wire due to concrete and other restrictions. I tried TP-link Powerline adapters (which power another camera for me) and because there are CGFI outlets and breakers they do not work.
Is there anything else I can try?
Thanks!
 
avspin said:
So I have a couple of wireless cameras and want to change to wired. I have power outside near where I want the jacks. I cannot run a new cat6 wire due to concrete and other restrictions. I tried TP-link Powerline adapters (which power another camera for me) and because there are CGFI outlets and breakers they do not work.
Is there anything else I can try?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Hi @avspin

There's always a few options..

One option is surface mounted conduit to junction boxes, and often the way it works best with industrial style construction.
 
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Interesting, I have mine going thru CGFI's and breakers and works just fine. I have found they have trouble through a power strip - did you have that on the end with the router? If so, try it directly in the outlet.
 
The line I'm tapping is for my hot tub. 50am GCFI breaker at the main. About 100' to a sub panel near the spa. The sub panel has two breakers for the spa 20 & 30 amp both also GCFI (been like that for 20 years). I added a 15 amp breaker to the spa sub panel and ran it about 10' to an plug. That plug has to be GCFI. It's in a box with my pool light switch (different circuit) and can't put it on there, But the powerline works here. I have another plug downstream about 8' to work a fountain. This is the plug I want to use. But the powerline does not work here.
Spent an hour on chat with TP-Link with them finally telling me the GCFIs are the issue. But another 8' causes it not to work?
 

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Strange, but those GCFIs can do weird things sometimes.

Maybe replace the older ones and see if that works?

Mine is going through 3 GCFIs and works, but I had previously replaced them about 2 years before doing the powerline adapter option.
 
The plug GCFI is new, the 50 amp GCFI is expensive. Maybe I'll just stick to the wifi.
 
Powerline adapters are hit and miss. It’s a roll of the dice with them.

Either a dedicated wifi network for the cameras outside or a direct run of ethernet. No magic bullet I’m afraid.
 
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Thanks but I have Omada mesh and pretty good signal but just wanted them off wifi.
 
8 feet is not a long run, can you shove a cat 6 or coax through the conduit from the GFCI plug to the second plug? if not re-wiring that 8' run (even reusing the same 14awg wires) is not too bad unless there are many twist and turns. Probably not to code but....
 
I wouldn't run a CAT through a conduit with AC conductors unless it was low voltage AC, as in 12VAC. The code violation is one can of worms and the induced noise in the CAT is another. Just looking for problems, IMHO, and I've been known to "bend the rules" when needed.
 
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sebastiantombs said:
I wouldn't run a CAT through a conduit with AC conductors unless it was low voltage AC, as in 12VAC. The code violation is one can of worms and the induced noise in the CAT is another. Just looking for problems, IMHO, and I've been known to "bend the rules" when needed.
Click to expand...

That's why I also said Coax, can get some shielded coax easily, and a cheap DirectTV DECA would handle the data over coax for 10/100.

For 8' and 10/100 I doubt the induced noise would be enough to knock it off 100 with cat6

assuming one is willing to "bend the rules" on the code of course
 
I suppose you could try running fiber optical through that conduit alongside the AC. Don't know if that is up to code but if done properly it's not inherently unsafe I think. If your conduit has sharp bends in it this won't work, fiber is not so bendy.
 
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1" conduit, buried but already has 4x 10 gauge and 2x 12 gauge in it from the main pull box. Not going to try to pull another, just asking for trouble. I ran the 14 gauge from the sub breaker and added the breaker. It's only 4' to the outlet and another 8' to the plug. TP-Link told me if I had signal at the outlet it most likely would not be very strong.
What I didn't mention is that GCFI outlet is in a 2 gang box with a switch for my pool light, hence the additional 12 gauge wires.
I guess I need to check the strength and if it's good work on finding a different kind of box that I can enclose a Powerlline and 2 POE injectors. Here is a couple of photos. The outdoor box is next to the outlet that I want to add the stuff. The plug and switch are on the other side of the bolder.
 

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I think we meant run the powerline to the GFCI, then convert that to fiber, coax, cat6 for the remaining 8ft to the second plug downstream from the GFCI which I think where you were trying to get the data to?
 
Right but I need an enclosure for it and the injectors. You can see the switch next to it so I need to find a differed box and/or separate the switch. I could run a new conduit from the breaker behind the bolder and add a 12"x12" metal box there. That may work. Just need to figure cost to benefit ratio.
 
avspin said:
... the powerline does not work here.
Spent an hour on chat with TP-Link with them finally telling me the GCFIs are the issue. But another 8' causes it not to work?
Click to expand...
You might try a pair of Comtrend G.hn powerline adaptors. They claim their G.hn communications protocol is more noise-resistant.

I never got anywhere near the blazing speeds Comtrend suggests you can get with them, but I did get a minimum of a solid 80mb/s or better throughout the house, even going worst-branch-circuit-to-worst-branch-circuit, across the phase split, and 70mb/s to the shed--about 100 ft. from the house. That's more than enough for a couple IP cams. There's a GFCI and arc fault breaker on that branch for the shed, too.
 
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Here's the background story, sorry I will try to make it short.

I had a woodpecker show up about 4 years ago. A female Northern Flicker. Kept pecking the same spot under the eve, north side. They are federally protected so I can shoot it (yet). I learned they only peck for two reasons, food, and shelter. I know it’s not bugs as it’s only this one spot. Used squirt guns, streamers, reflectors. She would just pull them off. She ended up starting a hole under the eve and I put a metal plate there, but she still pecked away.

I asked a wildlife expert and he said give her a home and she will stop pecking. Plus, they are very territorial and will keep other peckers away. So, I bought a Norther Flicker box and stuck it up there. She went for it the same day. That did it, she stopped pecking. She loved the box and would sit there all day with her head out.

I bought a cheap wi-fi cam “The Pecker Cam” and stuck it in the tree to watch. Then added a suet feeder. This was her home now and got some great shots.

Then about two months later a male showed up. He was not happy with a nice female, home and food. He had to tell the whole neighborhood. He would go to the top of the chimney and drum away all day on the metal flashing. Just making noise to let everyone this is his woman and home.

My wife said the bird or her! Two months later when they flew south, I removed the box and stuck up more reflectors. Still couldn’t bring myself to hurting her so I bought a nerf dart gun. I managed to hit her twice and that was enough. I haven’t seen her for a month now.

What does this have to do with hard wired IP cameras? I read Parley’s post about camo tape on a camera and thought this would work and I could put up a better camera since I’ve been upgrading a bunch, thanks Andy. I also have one pointed the other way at my pool.

So already to stick them up, camo taped and all, when I ran into this network problem.
 

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