I've printed out the specs and I'm trying to see the difference between these two cameras besides one is $10 more and one has Micro SD Card?
Compare IPC-T2231T-ZS to IPC-T3241T-ZAS ?
- Thread starter jlindblo
- Start date
sebastiantombs
Known around here
The 3241 also has audio. The 2231 has no audio.
ipcamtalk.com
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Review-OEM IPC-T2231T-ZS Ver 2, 2mp Varifocal Starlight Camera
Updated 12/11/19. Edited for clarity. Dahua OEM IPC-T2231T-ZS from EMPIRETECANDY 2MP WDR Turret Varifocal Network Camera Review unit courtesy of Andy (@EMPIRETECANDY) in exchange for a fair and honest review. Andy's ipcamtalk vendor forum: link Andy's AliExpress store: link Andy's Amazon...
Review-OEM IPC-T3241-ZAS 2mp AI Lite series Varifocal
IPC-T3241-ZAS from EMPIRETECANDY 2MP WDR Turret Varifocal AI Network Camera Review unit courtesy of Andy (@EMPIRETECANDY) in exchange for a fair and honest review. Purchase in the IPCT Store Andy's ipcamtalk vendor forum: link Andy's AliExpress store: link Andy's Amazon store: link Price...
Ahhh .... I have never used audio ... still learning. Thank you ...
MikeLud1
IPCT Contributor
Flintstone61
Known around here
Yet again I have bought the lesser of the two cameras. I'm really enjoying having the audio when the Sawzall starts ripping Catalytic converters off. It kinda helps explain to the cops whats wrong with this picture.....I will probably have to ,,,,Buy another camera. 
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sebastiantombs
Known around here
A couple of quick screen caps for you of each one. The 2231 in this case has the advantage of auxiliary IR lighting and the IR of the camera is shut off. The 3241 has its' own IR on and no auxiliary IR.
2231
3241
2231
3241
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Flintstone61
Known around here
Some of the Women on the Board, liked that I captured plates with the newer cams. Other asked, " What's a Catalytic Converter?" Are u fn kidding me? These are the people i deal with.
They aren't even Joe Six Pack
they're like Jeanie 5 Pack! 1 can short!
i really want the Audio version. grrrr
They aren't even Joe Six Pack
they're like Jeanie 5 Pack! 1 can short!
i really want the Audio version. grrrr
I bought the 3241 but I did not see audio wires hanging out like on the B4552B - ZE that I bought from Andy. It did not have a wiring diagram like the 4552 did. The 3241 is on a test pole and tomorrow I may move it to it's new home. But WOW .... the 1st image I checked was at 3 am when it was dark .... and I'm stoked!! Green grass showing up at night. Amazing ... to me anyway.. Below ... half zoom, full zoom and no zoom. The name sign
leaning against the fence is 40 yds out.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
The audio is sent along with the video on ethernet. No external connections required. For best performance, IE you actually want to hear something, go into the camera GUI, select audio, shut off the noise filter and turn the gain up to maximum.
Flintstone61
Known around here
sebastiantombs
Known around here
It is a great camera. To me, with my tired old eyes, it outperforms the old "standard" 5231. Better night vision especially.
Keep in mind if it is on auto/default settings at night, it will produce a nice bright image and green grass showing up all night, but motion will be a complete blur...YOu will have to dial it in to get the best performance, which will probably mean the night image will be darker than you see right now and may have to go into B/W...
sebastiantombs
Known around here
I hope you weatherproofed the RJ45 and power connections on that mount @jlindblo .
It's just temp and I'll probably remount it tomorrow evening at church under a covered walkway. I wanted to get a little familiar with it before I take it to it's new home and not have anybody ask me if I knew what I was doing. :^)))).
sebastiantombs
Known around here
Even under a covered walkway, even if you're using a PFA130 box, wrap the gland for the RJ45 with Coax Seal or another self amalgamating tape and then wrap that with a good electrical tape like 3M 33+. The temperature/humidity swings can produce enough moisture over time to seriously degrade the pins of the RJ45. Many here have had that exact problem due to not weatherproofing the connector well.
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Good point wittai .... I'll go out right now and walk by it's temp mounting and see if I get any artifacts. Ok, I'm seeing what you mean at night ... sorta ghosting. So ,,,, auto/default settings eludes me..... or is the BI camera setting that says Black and White?
All settings are done within the camera GUI.
it comes down to configuring your camera and dialing it in to your field of view and using a test subject to walk around while you are adjusting.
Auto/default settings are usually going to be problematic. Auto shutter at night was probably a motion blur ghost and didn't look like a human.
And some field of views will be problematic as well. YMMV.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
it comes down to configuring your camera and dialing it in to your field of view and using a test subject to walk around while you are adjusting.
Auto/default settings are usually going to be problematic. Auto shutter at night was probably a motion blur ghost and didn't look like a human.
And some field of views will be problematic as well. YMMV.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
I will do that ... as I've already had one network cable corrode even tho it had the included moisture hardware covering the connection. And this was under the eaves too and completely protected. Thanks for reminding me ...
We have found those moisture hardware to be just hardware LOL. Dielectric grease goes a long way towards preventing the long term corrosion that happens by it just being out in the elements even if it is completely protected from actually getting wet.