Any issues mounting a wood camera box?

[amrogers3]

I fabricated a wood box for mounting a camera under my eaves. My eaves were too narrow for a normal Dahua junction box.

Any recommendations or things I should do before I mount this under the eaves? My main concern is water getting and sitting between the camera and the wood.

I am going prime it using Kilz Mold & Mildew Interior/Exterior Primer. I am going to caulk the seams so the paint doesn't crack over time due to expansion/contraction and caulk around the box when I mount it. Then finally paint the whole thing using the brown trim color to match the eaves.

I am going to use 2 3/4 Tapcon screws to anchor in the hardy plank board.

 

[Revo2Maxx]

I know you said you will paint, But thought I would mention a few things, 1 I would personally use Teak or some Red Wood to make the mount, Next and maybe this is something you have considered already, In your picture your roof is running off the house without a Gutter system and this will cause your footage to become useless in the raining times. I don't know the size of your roof or your weather type area. Where I live anyway if I tried to mount a camera there 65% of the year I would have a camera looking at a sheet of water.. I know in your pictures you are thinking about water getting in between the camera and wood, If using a Gutter and with it installed correctly there would be little concern over that. Driving rain and or very Dew days might add in some around the camera area. All the rest coming off the roof, again if gutters are installed correctly there would be no issue with that for most of the wet times..

 

[tangent]

My main concern is water getting and sitting between the camera and the wood.

You may be able to fit a little piece of drip edge or other flashing material between your wooden box and the fascia board. You could also make a shallow kerf cut in the wood maybe 1/2" from the outside edge to stop drips from following the wood surface (this would work better if the wood were wider).

Put dielectric grease in the RJ-45 jack and maybe a silica gel desiccant pack in your wooden junction box.

 

[amrogers3]

You may be able to fit a little piece of drip edge or other flashing material between your wooden box and the fascia board.

I found two drip options, a 90° and one with a lot more angles.

Here is how I think I could use them. Flashing is in red. Which one you think is the better option?

 

[tangent]

Here is how I think I could use them. Flashing is in red. Which one you think is the better option?

The first one. You could probably add a bend to it so it goes vertically up the back of the fascia like this:

 

[amrogers3]

The first one. You could probably add a bend to it so it goes vertically up the back of the fascia like this:

Thank you, this was a good recommendation. What would be the best way to bend the metal?

 

[Ri22o]

Look for Z flashing, it's likely already the dimensions and bends you need.

Gibraltar Building Products 1 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Z Bar Flashing SZB1G-2 - The Home Depot

Galvanized Steel Z-Flashing is made from 28-Gauge galvanized steel. It is used to protect the horizontal joints between sheets of siding from water infiltration. The large leg of the metal goes against

www.homedepot.com

 

[tangent]

Thank you, this was a good recommendation. What would be the best way to bend the metal?

You could use something like this: Crescent Wiss 3-1/4 in. Hand Seamer with 1-1/4 in Jaw Capacity WS3N - The Home Depot
But many other things work work too. After you cut a piece to length, you could use a vise, some pieces of wood or the edge of a work bench and a hammer, a break (hard on something this small), or various hand tools.

Look for Z flashing, it's likely already the dimensions and bends you need.

That could be a good option, but it lacks the kick found on drip edge. Ideally you'd want the flashing to stick down below the point where the camera and wood come together. Often that part of z flashing is only 3/8" which probably wouldn't stick down to the surface where the camera mounts.


Another option would be to use a combination of drip edge with z bar on top. They wouldn't have to bend it, but would probably have to cut down the widths of both types of flashing. If the wooden box were shorter, even with the fascia, just a piece of z bar would work well.

 

[Ri22o]

You could use something like this: Crescent Wiss 3-1/4 in. Hand Seamer with 1-1/4 in Jaw Capacity WS3N - The Home Depot
But many other things work work too. After you cut a piece to length, you could use a vise, some pieces of wood or the edge of a work bench and a hammer, a break (hard on something this small), or various hand tools.

That could be a good option, but it lacks the kick found on drip edge. Ideally you'd want the flashing to stick down below the point where the camera and wood come together. Often that part of z flashing is only 3/8" which probably wouldn't stick down to the surface where the camera mounts.
View attachment 201200

Another option would be to use a combination of drip edge with z bar on top. They wouldn't have to bend it, but would probably have to cut down the widths of both types of flashing. If the wooden box were shorter, even with the fascia, just a piece of z bar would work well.

You could also install it upside down and trim the 2 1/4 leg to height; we're not trying to keep water out of the house. I would also rather bend a small kick on the bottom of that with a vice, linesman pliers, or hand seamer than to try and bend a leg up.

 

[amrogers3]

You could use something like this: Crescent Wiss 3-1/4 in. Hand Seamer with 1-1/4 in Jaw Capacity WS3N - The Home Depot
But many other things work work too. After you cut a piece to length, you could use a vise, some pieces of wood or the edge of a work bench and a hammer, a break (hard on something this small), or various hand tools.

I got that exact tool yesterday as I was trying to figure how to go about doing all this. Never had any experience doing any of this before.

Anyway, here is what I did this morning