Ethernet Burial—Detached Garage Install

[MacFun]

Ethernet Burial—Detached Garage Install—Please Advise!

I have an existing home where there is a detached garage (carport with integrated workroom) that needs to be connected to the main house that will house the: router, POE switch, internet modem, NVR, etc. The purpose for this run is because it will allow the simplest and trouble free operation of at least 4 POE cameras (for starters) with room for future growth after this reliable cat6 cable is installed.

A few questions:
-Always run conduit? I know you will say yes. This might might be wise just to prevent the cable from being cut easily by a rouge tenant planting a flower....
-have a junction box at the base of the home and the garage?
-Terminate the ethernet cable at the junction box or try to go all the way to the switch?
-Use direct burial cable as though I'm not using conduit? Probably not necessary.
-Use unshielded twisted pair. Probably don't need shielded.
-Run the conduit up the corner of a two story house? The current coax is just bare and doing fine.
-Do I need ethernet surge suppressors? I would imagine not.... If yes, which ones do you recommend?
-How deep does the conduit need to be?
-I will need to tunnel under one crosswalk. Have you done that before? Suggestions?
-What type of conduit? I'm assuming 1" pipe.... a certain plastic or metal...?

BTW: the corner of the detached structure is only about 10' away from the main house. But the preferred corner of the house (that is the least obvious place to notice external wiring) and the best location for the garage junction box might require a 25-35 or 50 foot trench since I might need to avoid some tree roots.

I have no idea what path was used to run the electrical wiring for the workroom or the lights in the carport.

Please tell me how you ran your own ethernet cable to an external structure and where the task was completed with professional results cosmetically and functionally.

Thanks!

Rob

 

[Teken]

Ethernet Burial—Detached Garage Install—Please Advise!

I have an existing home where there is a detached garage (carport with integrated workroom) that needs to be connected to the main house that will house the: router, POE switch, internet modem, NVR, etc. The purpose for this run is because it will allow the simplest and trouble free operation of at least 4 POE cameras (for starters) with room for future growth after this reliable cat6 cable is installed.

A few questions:
-Always run conduit? I know you will say yes. This might might be wise just to prevent the cable from being cut easily by a rouge tenant planting a flower....
-have a junction box at the base of the home and the garage?
-Terminate the ethernet cable at the junction box or try to go all the way to the switch?
-Use direct burial cable as though I'm not using conduit? Probably not necessary.
-Use unshielded twisted pair. Probably don't need shielded.
-Run the conduit up the corner of a two story house? The current coax is just bare and doing fine.
-Do I need ethernet surge suppressors? I would imagine not.... If yes, which ones do you recommend?
-How deep does the conduit need to be?
-I will need to tunnel under one crosswalk. Have you done that before? Suggestions?
-What type of conduit? I'm assuming 1" pipe.... a certain plastic or metal...?

BTW: the corner of the detached structure is only about 10' away from the main house. But the preferred corner of the house (that is the least obvious place to notice external wiring) and the best location for the garage junction box might require a 25-35 or 50 foot trench since I might need to avoid some tree roots.

I have no idea what path was used to run the electrical wiring for the workroom or the lights in the carport.

Please tell me how you ran your own ethernet cable to an external structure and where the task was completed with professional results cosmetically and functionally.

Thanks!

Rob

You should start by calling into your local utility for call before you dig to identify all electrical & gas.

Next get the code book that relates to your specific location. Doing so will inform you as to the type of material, depth, and installation requirements.

Running any wire in conduit makes sense along with leaving a pull string. Going bigger within reason also makes sense and makes the big pull easier.

Pay special attention as to how many 90’s you have in place because it’s not only code but makes the big pull 999999999 harder!

Direct burial shielded cable must be used because conduit will always have water inside. The shielded cable will protect your expensive electronics from induced EMI / Lightning.

Everything must be shielded if you use this type of cable. RJ45, Patch Panel, Couplers, and must be connected (bonded) to the homes single point Earth ground at the electrical panel / service entrance.

Given there’s power at the garage you could negate all the shielding by simply installing none armour fibre cable and either use a POE Switch with fibre ports or use a media converter.

Again, if you use fibre and it’s armoured it must be grounded!

The use and deployment of a SPD is not only a nice to have but a need to have. As it relates to terminating vs a continuous run that depends on many factors.

From a practical perspective a continuous run avoids extra costs and equipment. Reduces points of failure in the system etc. Having a JB allows a person to make changes if and when required and eases maintenance if and when needed.

 

[Rob2020]

No an expert just a diy-er.

Always run conduit? I know you will say yes. This might might be wise just to prevent the cable from being cut easily by a rouge tenant planting a flower....

I did, mainly for cable protection, Monoprice direct burial rated cable.

-have a junction box at the base of the home and the garage?

I did not, but mine looks very professional, all depends on circumstances. If you do use a small NEMA box. I went straight through the Hardiplank and used COAX SEAL.

-Terminate the ethernet cable at the junction box or try to go all the way to the switch?

See above, I went straight through to the switch.

-Use direct burial cable as though I'm not using conduit? Probably not necessary.

Extra protection is better by my way of thinking, Water tends to find its way inside of coax I am told.

-Use unshielded twisted pair. Probably don't need shielded.

I am reasonably sure you need shielded if you plan on any kind of surge suppression. I used shielded but I am in a low lightning area so I did not use surge pro.

-Run the conduit up the corner of a two story house? The current coax is just bare and doing fine.

I ran coax between the gutter and house and used zip ties, looks very good, paint to match if you want to.


-Do I need ethernet surge suppressors? I would imagine not.... If yes, which ones do you recommend?

Texas, I would say yes. Do a search, there are some recommended here.

-How deep does the conduit need to be?

I only went about 6", mainly to keep from nicking with a shovel, very low freeze death on the coast where I am at.

-I will need to tunnel under one crosswalk. Have you done that before? Suggestions?

Have not done this, threads in the archives on technique, do a search.

-What type of conduit? I'm assuming 1" pipe.... a certain plastic or metal...?

NEMA gray 1" PVC is what I used.

 

[weigle2]

I would say, Liquidtight conduit is pretty water proof. That's what I ran and haven't had any water intrusion in over a year. I ran 3/4" so it is possible to run another CAT5e if it's needed in the future. Oh, and use armored if you have any possibility of something severing it via digging, etc.

 

[TonyR]

I'm thinking "Texas.......lightning".

I'd not pull any metallic conductors between the 2 points, either go with fiber in PVC conduit or go with a Layer 2 Transparent Bridge, as below, if LOS (Line Of Sight) is decent.

The wireless bridge has an advantage over fiber in the conduit....very quick install. I'd also bet it's cheaper. But if you have the time and the money, fiber is king, IMO.



EDIT: 9/14 @ 0631 CDT: added link to Ubiquiti Layer 2 Transparent Bridge

 

[MacFun]

-have a junction box at the base of the home and the garage?

I did not, but mine looks very professional, all depends on circumstances. If you do use a small NEMA box. I went straight through the Hardiplank and used COAX SEAL.

Care to share some beauty shots of your install?

 

[MacFun]

The wireless bridge has an advantage over fiber in the conduit....very quick install. I'd also bet it's cheaper. But if you have the time and the money, fiber is king, IMO.

Fantastic, the airMAX NanoStation M5 loco is only $67.... the only wireless beam thing from Ubiquity I saw before was $499... Although I like the look without any NanoStations mounted to the structure, at least it's financially viable.

So what's the problem with copper conductors between the buildings? We already have the high voltage electric underground somewhere.

 

[tigerwillow1]

So what's the problem with copper conductors between the buildings? We already have the high voltage electric underground somewhere.

A shoot-from-the-hip point of view: It's a lot easier to fry little electronic devices than big transformers.

 

[Rob2020]

Care to share some beauty shots of your install?

There are some in the archives if you look around. These were posted in response to similar threads.

 

[looney2ns]

Fantastic, the airMAX NanoStation M5 loco is only $67.... the only wireless beam thing from Ubiquity I saw before was $499... Although I like the look without any NanoStations mounted to the structure, at least it's financially viable.

So what's the problem with copper conductors between the buildings? We already have the high voltage electric underground somewhere.

The problem with copper between buildings when it comes to networking, Lightning induced surges are the problem. Which can happen from strikes as far as a mile away.
So you either use wireless, or you properly install shielded ethernet cable or fiber as others have suggested.
Or

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1382616-REG/ubiquiti_networks_ns_5acl_us_nanostation_5ac_loco_us.html

 

[MacFun]

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1382616-REG/ubiquiti_networks_ns_5acl_us_nanostation_5ac_loco_us.html

How would you mount to a corner of a garage... say the facia...? Apparently the mounting options are sold separately...

 

[TonyR]

How would you mount to a corner of a garage... say the facia...? Apparently the mounting options are sold separately...

These below work great, IMO. Designed for the large NanoStations's, shorten the 8" nipple to 6-1/2" (I think) for the smaller Loco's. For a horizontal surface such as a fascia, leave off the 90° elbow and its 1-1/2" nipple. Tip: wrap with white 3M vinyl tape to make them extra grippy for the stainless steel, worm gear clamps:

 

[MacFun]

Cool but I was hoping for something more cosmetically pleasing.... for the wife approval factor....

 

[TonyR]

Cool but I was hoping for something more cosmetically pleasing.... for the wife approval factor....

They'll be behind the radio and under the roofline BUT....your wife must be more nosey "hands on" than mine.

 

[MacFun]

Is there no official wall mount for this model?

Also, does it have to be aimed at the other one????

 

[Teken]

Is there no official wall mount for this model?

Also, does it have to be aimed at the other one????

That’s why it’s called PtP / PtmP wireless.

 

[anotherone]

here's a mount you can consider:
b and h photo nanostation mount

 

[MTL4]

Another vote for fiber in PVC here too. Plenty of speed, reliable and lightening proof.

 

[Teken]

Another vote for fiber in PVC here too. Plenty of speed, reliable and lightening proof.

To be clear armoured fibre optic cable must be bonded and grounded. Dielectric fibre cable negates the need to do so.

Poor DIYer simply use indoor rated fibre cable in conduit to negate grounding all together.

But come up short in about 2-4 years because the indoor rated cable begins to break down and the light starts to scatter because the conduit is filled with mineral rich water.

 

[TonyR]

Also, does it have to be aimed at the other one????

Yes, and mounted plumb.

For a short distance like yours, visual alignment initially works OK.
Then launch the radio's embedded AirOS webGUI ("Tools" => "Antenna Alignment") and adjust (rotate) each radio s-l-o-w-l-y for the highest signal, i.e. -80 is poor, -70 is better.

https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013252034-ISP-Wireless-Antenna-Alignment-for-Outdoor-Wireless-Links