Recent content by Jeroen1000

So part 1 left us focussing at night time with IR ON. Now I took a new set of pictures during daytime: - Scenario: Camera was focussed at night time with IR-ON. 1) 1ste one has been made during daytime before refocussing the camera 2) the 2nd has been made during daytime after refocussing the...

If you can query the IR status you could just go to the focus point that was saved instead of a full refocus. I wasn't implying a full refocus actually. It would work exactly as using the HTTP API. The stored focus points can be saved in the tmp folder. How to focus is not the issue, it's more...

@TVT73 Blast, I was afraid of that. But maybe...the IR-status or the position of the IR-cut filter can be queried/polled, as I pointed out above aka "the alternative way". Then it's a matter of querying it often enough to have fast response. That could be done with a cronjob on the camera...

The proof is in the pudding:) - Scenario: I have focussed the camera 30 minutes before it would switch to B/W itself. Then, at full darkness I took 2 photo's. 1) 1ste one has been made before refocussing the camera for IR-light. 2) the 2nd has been made after refocussing the camera for IR-light...

Hi Cor35Vet, You did a great job make the firmware more customizable. Thanks! The entire thread is an interesting read. I would like to ask your opinion on something. How hard would it be to identify the code responsible for a D/N shift and make it perform an extra action when it activates the...

I don't believe it is the same. The "open iris" thing is preserve depth of field during nightime. If you focus during daytime (on a bright day) the aperture hole is very small = large DOF. When night comes, the aperture opens up and the DOF decreases. To migitate that, it seems you have to focus...

I think I somewhat understand it now. The focus shift we are talking about here is longitudinal chromatic aberration. A lens cannot focus all colours in the same plane in the longitudinal direction: see graphical representation (red coloured section of the graphic) in the opening post. Net...

Since this is the focus thread something has come to my attention. I can find a fair amount of suggestions, telling to focus at "near" dark to compromise on the focus shift. The goal is to have the iris open the aperture fully of close to full. Apparently, focussing in bright weather...

Is this so for ALL PTZ? I was thinking about getting a SD6AE240V-HNI because the focus shift thing is driving up the wall. But you are saying it might be worse?

I'm not sure all routers allow that but yeah that boils down to more or less the same thing. Splitting hairs but it's still not as good as fixed:-)

If I'm not mistaken, you have changed the camera password (for the one that does not work)? Dahua forces you to I believe. When you add the cams in the NVR, you have to provide the new password you chose. It may be as simple as that. All your gear is in the same subnet so it should work. Even...

My bet I was a bit too fast there. You are entirely correct

Let me briefly elaborate. All the other stuff in your home is in a subnet too. It could be for instance 192.168.0.0/24 (this is called a subnet). Which means the first device in the subnet can be 192.168.0.1 and the last 192.168.0.253 (.254 and .255 are special and cannot be used for devices)...

If you need any details about a step just give me a shout. Putting the cam's behind the NVR-directly will make the NVR put them in a whole new subnet. I believe it is the 10.x.x.x network in your screenshot. I really dislike that as you then will no longer be able to connect to the camera's...

First things first. 1. Reset the camera's. 2. Plug them both into the same (POE) switch. 3. Assign your laptop a static IP address in the same default subnet as the camera's you have reset. Plug the laptop into the POE-switch. Now you can get into the camera WEB-GUI. 4. Assign the camera's a...