Search results for query: pre-wire

Keep this simple, as anyone who is involved in so called (IT) would use the most common tools and solutions to identify or isolate the root cause. As you stated you have no clue where the problem lies yet nothing I’ve read shows any basic network troubleshooting?!? Ping: Run a continuous ping...

We could always send 120volts to a wire at the bottom of the doorbell when they try to stick a paperclip up there ;) If we need to pull the DB we just turn Off power...

I reside in a residential building equipped with a 30-line analog voice intercom system. Additionally, I have a Dahua KTP02 Video Intercom Kit (VTO + VTH) installed at the garden door. I'm exploring the possibility of connecting a wire from the intercom headset to the Alarm IN port on the VTH...

A few things come to mind. Most Smart Doorbells have internal batteries. How long will they last? Who knows, I ran my LaView DB for 3 1/2 years. Not saying that is your problem but worth checking into. Next, I know this will not sound right since it has been working for 2 years BUT, I would...

I'm trying to troubleshoot an odd issue that I am seeing with my Amcrest AD410 doorbell. I've had it connected to my doorbell wiring for the past 2 years without issue, and then all of a sudden in the last week it started acting up and would die about every 24 hours. It would show completely...

Thanks! That's great info. Yes, please post video when you do this!

The vibratory plow "puller" is basically a knife blade with a sling attached for holding pipe or wire. Lower blade into ground, vibrate the blade, and drive slow. Pipe gets dragged underground behind the blade. Damage to ground is really dependent on soil conditions and pulling depth. Roots are...

I have been using TP-Link Pharos system for the last 3 years linking house to a shed 300 feet away and also installed the same between commercial offices and a Pavilion 500 feet away. - CPE510 system is ultra reliable and very reasonably priced. Stated range up to 13KM away so a few hundred feet...

When I turn them back on, it starts working, also, it always just shows, ONVIF movement, is that what the trip wire does? I was hoping it could also show the is a person.

I'd wire a tamper-switch /door-open switch on that cabinet or closet to a "Shelly-1 UL" input and have it tell Blue Iris to send you a Pushover alert "DOOR OPEN". https://ipcamtalk.com/threads/alarm-output-nc-or-no-via-wired-connection-into-camera-to-trigger-bi-alerts.58124/...

I did some rough calculations based on my 4.8-120mm PTZ zoom range, to estimate what I would need. Dahua work on a 0-25 zoom range for that 120mm PTZ 25% = 30mm 50% = 60mm 75% = 90mm 100% = 120mm Works out at roughly 4.6mm over estimate per zoom increment in theory. Which equates to zoom 7...

You got it. And I would think it easier to move the PLA in the garage around to find the same 120VAC leg that the house PLA is connected to.

Actually 4 wires, neutral and ground. There are 2 hot wires from the street transformer to the house and since I have a double pole breaker leading to the garage both legs are present. So what I think you're saying is I just need to find the common hot wire from the transformer that both the...

No. What I'm saying is plenty of trunk slamming alarm installers don't want to bother stocking / using heavier wire when necessary. Sometimes people may run 22-4 to a simple contact sensor, but they only use two wires. The other two would be spares in the unlikely event the cable is partially...

Forgive my ignorance, but when you say "doubled up" are you saying using 22-4 wire and then when using a window/door sensor, such as the 944T, that you would hook TWO of the wires up to one terminal of the 944T and the other TWO wires up to the other terminal of the 944T and then of course...

You typically need larger wire like 18-2 for the siren and from the power transformer to the panel. Actual wire specs needed depend on length of wire and amperage. FWIW, you regularly see 22-4 used for higher current items doubled up using 2 wires for each leg. Sometimes it's adequate...

No single door/window sensor is over a few hundred feet. I just figured I would buy a 500 foot box or maybe even 1,000 foot. For whatever reason in my notes I wrote down that door/window sensors needed 18/2. If it can be totally good with 22/2 (or 22/4) then that would be great. I agree...

I've used them on several houses doing lighting in ceilings. No problem at all, easy to use, been about 5 years, not had the first problem. They do make you wonder though, as the contacts just kind of "clip on". I'll keep using them, at least until I have a problem.......

Have been using them since they first came to market and have the first generation of them: The problem I ran into before the newer style came out was space. As others noted the ones you see in my attachment take up way more space than a marrette / wire nut. Other problems I ran into was...

I would avoid purchasing from Amazon if possible. Amazon is full of counterfeit products including wire. To the OP, I would stick with name brand alarm wire such as Honeywell Genesis.

For something like 22/4, just get it from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=alarm+wire+22%2F4+solid&crid=2HJMDM12H2228&sprefix=alarm+wire+2%2Caps%2C84&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_12

It’s total click bait to say wire nuts are a “hazard”. They are the gold standard of wire splicing and have been for decades. Anything can be a hazard if done incorrectly. I refuse to watch a video that is that misleading right from the thumbnail.

Is the door sensor 500 feet from the panel or are you just trying to buy a box of 500 feet of wire? Generally, door/window sensors are wired with 22/2 or 22/4 wire. Motion detectors, glassbreaks and keypads are 22/4.

Use them at a clients house where your insurance is on the line.

The biggest problem with any twist-on wire connector (3M, Ideal, G-B, etc.) is how they are mis-applied and wrongly installed. The Wago is not immune from that but IMO you'd have to try harder to screw it up mainly because you can visibly see the wires AND they can re-seated if...

I started using Wagos after learning about them from a YouTube review from "How To Home". They are reusable, different wire gauges can be joined together, and solid and stranded can be easily connected.

Uh, not exactly...and I'd go so far as to say not even close after using all types of 3M splicing and connector products in my former career. I'm a big fan of 3M innovations. Scotch Locks are not made to be opened up and are very difficult to open up and remove a wire or wires and the type that...

I use them low voltage applications with high current draw. 24Vdc MDR power wiring. Also use them in light fixtures. 120 and 277volt. They are indeed handy. But in a branch circuit for Plugs or lights i will stick with mechanical twist and wire nut.

Let's ask the AI .. Ok .. hmmm .. looks like the AI got tried of me quickly .. as on the 3rd try it stepped out of the convo ..

It’s just a heavy duty scotch lock. Gotta have some guitar player fingertips on the thicker gauge wire.