Assistance with removing condensation from Dahua HFW5231E-Z12

J Sigmo

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I just thought I'd add that what I find the most useful are these bags of drierite:

Drierite - Drierite Desiccant Bags

Since you end up paying shipping on the orders, the total price will be higher than just the prices shown. And if you can't use it all at once, you need a very moisture-tight way to store what you won't use right away.

They also sell humidity indicators, which are great for visually verifying when desiccant needs to be changed out. You can cut them into much smaller pieces so one indicator gives you 8 little ones.

You can regenerate this stuff in an oven (they tell how on the site).

Drierite - Regeneration of Drierite Desiccants

Because of the high temperature required, I remove the desiccant from the paper bags for regeneration. Then I can repack it into other perforated containers or new porous bags, etc.

The regenerated desiccant, just as new stuff, needs to be stored in an airtight container until you use it.

And here is some electronics grade RTV on good old Amazon. They really do have a lot of stuff!

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone-Squeeze/dp/B0063U2RT8?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0063U2RT8

Some things to keep in mind about silicone sealants:

They have a shelf life. Never use expired lots. An opened tube will go bad even sooner.

They cure by reacting with atmospheric moisture. So ironically, to get them to cure rapidly, you want to expose them to high humidity and high temperatures. If you seal your bathtub or shower with silicone sealant, the best thing you can do to make it cure rapidly is to take a long, hot shower in there right away!

We used to force cure the RTV on circuit boards in 100% humidity at about 150 degrees F. Even thick beads would cure in a couple of hours. Then we had to dry the boards thoroughly by baking in a dry environment before assembling them into the sealed downhole tools. This was all high temperature electronics to withstand downhole oil well temperatures (350 degrees F).

While these silicone sealants stop liquid water, they are somewhat porous, and may not stop water vapor over long periods. After all, since they cure by reacting with moisture, they'd never cure except at the very surface if they were moisture-proof. They actually form lots of tiny pores as they cure. That's why mildew grows inside beads of silicone, and is why some silicone sealant now comes with a fungicide built-into the formula.

If you've ever used clear silicone sealant that doesn't have the fungicide in a humid location, you've probably seen the mold that grows within the silicone over time.
 
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Kwulabear

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Had the same problem as op but on a IPC-HFW8232E-Z. It didn't have the slots as in the pictures from Andy. I took it apart and dried the lens. But while doing that, lost one of the little screws that holds the front plastic on. Anyone know where I can get a replacment screw?
 

looney2ns

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Had the same problem as op but on a IPC-HFW8232E-Z. It didn't have the slots as in the pictures from Andy. I took it apart and dried the lens. But while doing that, lost one of the little screws that holds the front plastic on. Anyone know where I can get a replacment screw?
Hardware store
 

J Sigmo

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Probably a metric thread. If you can take one of the remaining screws for comparison, you should be able to find one that matches.
 

bradner

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Yes alwayson, it’s the cover in your picture. You need a fine knife blade or scalpel to start it off from an outside corner. Once started you can lift it easily but with care to keep it intact. Then keep the cover somewhere safe, away from detritus of fluff that would stick to the adhesive.
Resurrecting a 2 year old thread but my LPR camera has suffered this condensation fate - IPC-HFW5231E-Z12E - I noticed my LPR images getting foggy but I thought it was fog itself. Today, the camera went dead and won't power up now. I only got it this year too.

For the life of me there's no way that front cover wants to budge. I broke an exatco and a utility knife blade trying to get it off in trying to get the inside dried out.
 

Dave Lonsdale

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Hello bradner
I see I still had this thread on ‘watch’. You say ‘front cover’. I hope you’re not trying to prise off the cast metal front cover! Your only supposed to ease up the thin neoprene-like self adhesive overlay inset within this at the very front to then reveal the screws that bolt the front cover on to the main body. If you’ve found it there’s no way it will snap a blade.

Ive had one more occurrence of moisture entering the same camera even though I moved this one to a sheltered position. It seems OK now (fingers crossed). I concluded that the ingress was not via the joint between the front casting and main body which has an excellent o-ring seal but instead is a poor seal round the glass window that’s set into the front cover. I’ve coated this join (all round the inside) with glue to improve the seal which I left to cure before reassembling (see the words of wisdom from ‘professor’ J Sigmo).

Guess what looks like what I’ve said about the neoprene is probably wrong. Just before sending this message I popped outside to look at one of my recent bullets having the new design rectangular front window. If yours is this style, it’s not a neoprene membrane, it’s hard and shiny. I have not tried to prise one of these off. I can’t see any other way of getting inside but definitely a more nail-biting experience. Any other forum members done this?
 

bradner

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@Dave Lonsdale GOT IT!! It's the inset piece inside the metal cover. Have it all apart and drying out. See what happens from here.. Thanks for the help friend.
 
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