Blue Iris Trial?
- Thread starter Aronder
- Start date
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
I went to that link, downloaded V5, and started installing it but getting this error:
This is on Windows 7 Pro SP1 32bit.
This is on Windows 7 Pro SP1 32bit.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
Your Win7 version is not up to date.
This is not an issue with Blue Iris.
Possible solution is to run windows update, and make sure you install all high priority updates.
Or its possible, Win 7 is really old now, and you won't be able to get the proper updates to fix this issue as it is no longer supported by MS.
This is not an issue with Blue Iris.
Possible solution is to run windows update, and make sure you install all high priority updates.
Or its possible, Win 7 is really old now, and you won't be able to get the proper updates to fix this issue as it is no longer supported by MS.
Last edited:
No trial for the app, but most use the native UI3 that is part of BI. Simply open a browser and type in IP address of the computer followed by :81 or :80 whichever your port is.
The Windows 7 issue is resolved, the Blue Iris trial is installed, and the camera is added.
I see a lot of settings - a lot to learn.
Right off I need to set camera data storage to another disk.
In Blue Iris Settings / Clips and Archiving the location of BlueIris/db can be changed.
When I change the BlueIris/db location will that change the location of all the folders in the list below (New, Stored, etc)?
Are there any other data storage location settings?
The IPC-T2431T-AS camera is still in default settings. Are there recommended settings to improve the video?
I read somewhere that recording can be set to the lower quality Substream then upon a trigger event the higher quality Mainstream will be recorded. Is this correct and how is it set?
I see a lot of settings - a lot to learn.
Right off I need to set camera data storage to another disk.
In Blue Iris Settings / Clips and Archiving the location of BlueIris/db can be changed.
When I change the BlueIris/db location will that change the location of all the folders in the list below (New, Stored, etc)?
Are there any other data storage location settings?
The IPC-T2431T-AS camera is still in default settings. Are there recommended settings to improve the video?
I read somewhere that recording can be set to the lower quality Substream then upon a trigger event the higher quality Mainstream will be recorded. Is this correct and how is it set?
You need to read the WIKI and also utilize the BI Help files.
No it will not. Each storage folder is defined separately. Click on the name of the folder and then define the location.
You will have to experiment with the cam settings. Each cam and their respective positions will require individual settings.
That is using sub-streams. See the help file on the camera's record tab in BI. However, sub-streams may not be active in the trial version.
As mentioned, the settings are unique to each field of view and available light.
Surveillance cameras rarely do good on default auto settings like exposure/shutter at night. Any camera can be forced in color and look great for a static image, but motion is a blur.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
But first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start, along with 15 FPS and 15 i-frame.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
Surveillance cameras rarely do good on default auto settings like exposure/shutter at night. Any camera can be forced in color and look great for a static image, but motion is a blur.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
But first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start, along with 15 FPS and 15 i-frame.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
I saved the camera to H.264, smart codec off, CBR, 15 FPS, iFrame 15, and bitrate 6144 (won't allow higher).
The IPC-T2431T-AS consistently forces the bitrate back to 3584 after a power cycle.
Does the camera need an SD card with Blue Iris? Are there conditions that recommend an SD card in the camera?
The IPC-T2431T-AS consistently forces the bitrate back to 3584 after a power cycle.
Does the camera need an SD card with Blue Iris? Are there conditions that recommend an SD card in the camera?
Are you using Internet Explorer? Not Chrome or Edge with the IE plugin, but plain ole IE baked into Win10. These cameras are sensitive to browser and it is probably that.
You do not need an SD card to use BI. But most put an SD card as redundancy in the event the computer or BI conks out or someone steals the computer.
You do not need an SD card to use BI. But most put an SD card as redundancy in the event the computer or BI conks out or someone steals the computer.
I am using Windows 7 with Firefox browser, but also have Vivaldi and Opera browsers.
What do you recommend when browsing to the camera?
What do you recommend when browsing to the camera?
Like I said it is a known issue with surveillance cameras as the firmware was designed around Explorer, so to ensure you see all the settings and they stick, use Explorer.
Use Explorer and it should stick.
Use Explorer and it should stick.
I just happened to unplug it when moving then found the video bitrate went from 6144 to 3584.
It's repeatedly consistent.
What can account for this?
Could it be a problem with the camera?
It's repeatedly consistent.
What can account for this?
Could it be a problem with the camera?
Are you sure it is still set of Constant Bit Rate (CBR) and it hasn't reset to Variable Bit Rate?