Cable running ideas

[Mike A.]

Someone had posted using a magnet to attach to something. Think it was in a warehouse thread on big shelving racks. Good idea.

 

[wittaj]

A member here has his PTZ on his deck on a high rise condo attached by magnets.

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Thanks I just came here to say oh em gee. That photo is phenomenal. Is that your BI? Thanks! Yes, you can see some videos from it on my YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/user/aaronprez/videos It's a 30X PTZ Hikvision camera. Well a Chinese branded one with Hikvision internals. It's...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[Firefighter]

^^ Thats Pretty crazy. I'm sure it's fine, But I would trust some heavy duty metal straps hanging a ptz off a high rise like that. lol Awesome view though, Id use that ptz every day with that view.

 

[tech_junkie]

^^^ That header is a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 plate steel. That's going to be kind of hard to attach too.

If its steel plate, you drill and tap holes and make a pilot hole with a drill bit smaller than the screw hole drill. Place the mounting sticker on how you want it, then take a punch awl and make a impression where you want the screw holes, drill your pilot hole with a 7/64, then fininsh with the #33 HSS bit for the #6 hole. Then tap machine screw threads. Its not impossible, you just know what to do to make it happen.

 

[tech_junkie]

A member here has his PTZ on his deck on a high rise condo attached by magnets.

View attachment 140163

Blue Iris Tools - Weather Overlay, Watchdog & more!

Thanks I just came here to say oh em gee. That photo is phenomenal. Is that your BI? Thanks! Yes, you can see some videos from it on my YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/user/aaronprez/videos It's a 30X PTZ Hikvision camera. Well a Chinese branded one with Hikvision internals. It's...

ipcamtalk.com

I would have used the hinged electrical back box they sell to go along with the camera, then mount the back box to the pole with two 3/8" or 1/2" carriage bolts vertically.

 

[sebastiantombs]

I know all about magnets and drilling and tapping. In this case I have to wonder if the original poster has the tools and skills to use a drill and tap set, and remember that in a case like this it has to be a "plug" tap and not a standard taper tap.

In terms of a magnet, that PTZ is physically isolated from the magnet which gets it away from the direct, intense, magnetic field. With a turret you're getting relatively close the the high intensity magnetic field and that can cause all kinds of problems. It would depend on the strength/size of the magnet, but assuming it's neodymium that's an extremely strong magnetic field. Some careful testing would be in order. Using an appropriate mounting box would probably mitigate that problem versus mounting the camera "bareback".

 

[tech_junkie]

I know all about magnets and drilling and tapping. In this case I have to wonder if the original poster has the tools and skills to use a drill and tap set, and remember that in a case like this it has to be a "plug" tap and not a standard taper tap.

If its just one camera, they might luck out and have someone that has the tools/skills. Otherwise, they could call for an installer that works for a security company like me to install it and run the cable for $200-$300. I have been hired before to install a camera some homeowner started installing cameras just because in some instances like this and they don't want to spend the $200 in tools to do it themselves and/or don't want to screw it up.

 

[Mike A.]

That would be a bitch to do overhead like that. Could be done but I wouldn't want to be the one to do it. I vote trying the magnet(s) first. ; )

 

[tech_junkie]

That would be a bitch to do overhead like that. Could be done but I wouldn't want to be the one to do it. I vote trying the magnet(s) first. ; )

another place would be on the brick wall with lead anchors, but I would place it close to the ceiling unless camera angle can't be achieved, otherwise I would flat conduit up the brick wall into the porch ceiling.

 

[Holbs]

I love cabling challenges. Daily
Sorry I missed out earlier this week to help with replies. Been kind occupied at work all week.
The two cameras above the garage carriage lights...easy enough. Drill straight into the garage through the MORTAR between the outside stone (you can seal this hole up later if needed) at a 5degree upwards angle from the outside. Masonry drill bit will get the job done. 3/8" bit if a single Cat6. Since you will have data cabling in your garage for the 2 cameras, this is a good time to figure out of any other data, speakers, alarm wire....anything low-voltage-wise to put through the garage wall structure (camera out back or on side?). Now you have to decide if you want to home run all these cables back to your network area or put a POE switch in the garage, and then run a single Cat6 feed to your network area.

In regards to your front door area.. you have an wall air gap. I hope you are comfy learning how to patch drywall. You will have to drill from the outside in, then go up through the double header wall frame, travel across the drywall ceiling through the rafters, and hopefully have some pathway to your network area. Again, best to consider additional cabling in this area (alarm panel, inside data wire for possible future iPad near the front door, etc). You have an endoscope to scout out the pathways. You can do the drywall patching yourself (I mean...it's not hard) or can hire folks to come fix it up for you.

Be VERY WARY of any penetrations up to the 2nd floor from 1st floor, especially garage. You will be breaking fire code in your county (most likely) and any future home inspector will make a note of this for any refi or selling of home. It can be done but must be done properly and by code.

Here is a picture above my 1st floor celing drywall. You can see the joists running left to right. I had to open this up to fix my dry vent. While open, I did extra low voltage cabling


Here are the holes in my ceiling I did for my LED puck lights, surround speakers, camera & data Cat6...any wire I could think of. It's drywall, not poison. Easy to patch. Especially if thinking of repainting

 

[CCTVCam]

I know all about magnets and drilling and tapping. In this case I have to wonder if the original poster has the tools and skills to use a drill and tap set, and remember that in a case like this it has to be a "plug" tap and not a standard taper tap.

In terms of a magnet, that PTZ is physically isolated from the magnet which gets it away from the direct, intense, magnetic field. With a turret you're getting relatively close the the high intensity magnetic field and that can cause all kinds of problems. It would depend on the strength/size of the magnet, but assuming it's neodymium that's an extremely strong magnetic field. Some careful testing would be in order. Using an appropriate mounting box would probably mitigate that problem versus mounting the camera "bareback".

Yes could cause issues with the motor. Neomydium magnets are not an issue with regard to holding in place. You can get magnets that are so strong they'll pull through your hand if you have the magnet on one side and steel on the other. However, a strong field wll hold other components in place such as metal components in rotating turrets and may interefere with the magnet fields in the morotrs directly themselves. I can't say for sure on the latter but it's a possibility.

This one is totally too strong but just as an example - 304 lb pull strength:

50mm x 50mm x 25mm Neodymium N52 magnet - 138KG Pull

These high-powered 50mm x 50mm x 25mm x (8mm Hole) Block Countersunk neodymium magnets are some of the strongest commercially available.

magnetstore.co.uk

For something like a camera, I'd probably consider 4 smaller thinner magnets so one could be put at each corner of the mount. Obviously the pull weight is probably going to be quite high. I can't say for definite. A straight pull would probably be the sum of all 4 magnets but an angled pull from a corner islikely to be the strength of the nearest magnet plus the strength of other corners as they beome engaged as the steel pulls away. So long as the pull strength is a few times the weight of the camera to allow for wing loading and is within your capability to pull if necessary, then you should be ok.

Also, mounting it up there puts it a bit high.

You could take a brick out or you could just drill a hole behind where you want the camera and use electricians rods to fish for the cable. Removing a brick would make retrieval easier but you will need to drill a hole before putting it back!

 

[RUMBLESTRIP]

Be VERY WARY of any penetrations up to the 2nd floor from 1st floor, especially garage.

Is inumescent caulk not typically acceptable to seal penetrations in residential work?

 

[Holbs]

Is inumescent caulk not typically acceptable to seal penetrations in residential work?

Never heard of "inumescent" caulk. In regards to penetrations with fire code stuff, we rely on fire caulking, specifically. Maybe this inumescent is fire caulking. It will say on the outside if it is by code to be used as a fire barrier sealing.
Of course, now the question is how to apply it. Inside the conduit so no air travels in/out...and outside the conduit so no air comes through where you made the conduit hole.

 

[RUMBLESTRIP]

Never heard of "inumescent" caulk. In regards to penetrations with fire code stuff, we rely on fire caulking, specifically. Maybe this inumescent is fire caulking. It will say on the outside if it is by code to be used as a fire barrier sealing.
Of course, now the question is how to apply it. Inside the conduit so no air travels in/out...and outside the conduit so no air comes through where you made the conduit hole.

Sorry, I missed the T. It is intumescent fire block. It is the type that expands when it gets hot.

 

[CCTVCam]

Don't know about your fire codes but typically in the UK people woul;d use silicon sealant to waterproof around cables on the outside, and often the in. You can also buy cable entry covers to make internal entry points neater eg:

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- typically I'd silione around this both before inserting the entry cover and around the cable in it (note I'm an amateur not a professional so don't claim this is the correct way). If possible try to make the internal entry higher than the external so water cannot run down the cable.