Cams on Network, YAY! Now I'm back to square one again.

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Hello!

I was able to get 2 Loryta IPC-T3241T-ZAS 2MP Lite AI IR Vari-Focal Eyeball Network Camera set up on my home network (with some help!) but, YAY! I am trying to pick up small rodent activity (mice or rats) and am looking for support on adjusting my settings (I'm assuming I just adjust what is needed on the webpage my camera is connected to) to get the best picture at night. Can I also make adjustments at that IP address to flag for motion, etc? I am coming from Smart Cams so am wondering not only what I should adjust but also if I should be adjusting to set up Starlight, IR, etc.

I am not staying at my apartment, so am wondering if there is a way I can set up 24/7 recording without an SD card. Happy to buy software (but I am on a Mac).

Thanks for any help you anyone can offer. I've been so grateful!
 
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wittaj

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Glad you finally got that figured out!

Yes, all of the configurations to the camera will be within the camera gui itself that you log into via a web browser. Basically take it off of auto settings and adjust to your location and situation. No two camera settings are going to be the same, so it is hard to give specifics as a camera in my location will react differently to a camera at your location.

Take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper the ghost lol. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual priority and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting.

Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.

If you kept that laptop you ordered to set the camera up, you can record to the hard drive using either SmartPSS (or whatever Dahua is calling it now) or Blue Iris (although that isn't recommended with a laptop). There are some mac versions of software to run, but I will leave that to the mac experts here to offer up suggestions.

Starlight is a marketing term, so there is nothing in the camera to setup with that...
 
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Glad you finally got that figured out!

Yes, all of the configurations to the camera will be within the camera gui itself that you log into via a web browser. Basically take it off of auto settings and adjust to your location and situation. No two camera settings are going to be the same, so it is hard to give specifics as a camera in my location will react differently to a camera at your location.

Take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper the ghost lol. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual priority and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting.

Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.

If you kept that laptop you ordered to set the camera up, you can record to the hard drive using either SmartPSS (or whatever Dahua is calling it now) or Blue Iris (although that isn't recommended with a laptop). There are some mac versions of software to run, but I will leave that to the mac experts here to offer up suggestions.

Starlight is a marketing term, so there is nothing in the camera to setup with that...
So this is what I was working with. I figured FPS is frames per second. That went up to 30. I'm wondering if I don't have the capability to do the custom settings you sooo kindly outlined?
 

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wittaj

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These are pull downs, so select on it and change it to whatever you want. Also have the iframes at the bottom match whatever FPS you are using.

Are you using internet explorer? Some of these cameras are really sensitive to the browser and they were designed around that browser apparently LOL.
 
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