Do there exist outdoor Ethernet security cameras that screw into a 3/4" electrical box cover hole?

hepcat72

n3wb
Feb 23, 2020
19
7
New Jersey
I have spent a ridiculous amount of time today searching for a combo flood light / Ethernet security cam, but I'm convinced they don't exist, so I'm wondering if I can piece together one myself.

I can buy a simple flood light with an electrical box cover with holes the lights screw into and the wires come through the center of that. I want to see if I can get a box into which I can put a Sonoff rfr2 to control the lights.

But I would like the cam connected to the same box.Assuming I can find a box big enough to accommodate all that, I cannot seem to determine whether a camera can be found with a 3/4" threaded stem through which would go an Ethernet connection.

has anyone ever seen anything like this?
 
You may have to be the Inventor. I'm thinkin you could screw the camera to an electrical box cover after you drill a 3/4" hole in the center of it and thread a short piece of pipe or conduit to it with a couple nuts.
 
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You may have to be the Inventor. I'm thinkin you could screw the camera to an electrical box cover after you drill a 3/4" hole in the center of it and thread a short piece of pipe or conduit to it with a couple nuts.
I did end up implementing your suggestion. The box covers come with a punchout in the center that is the right size, so no need to drill. The one custom thing I did do, other than screwing the camera to the cover is, I bought some custom gasket material to waterproof the camera base to the cover. Had to put a hole in the center of that for the ethernet.
 
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You do realize that you're violating electrical code by combining high voltage, 120V, and low voltage, PoE, wiring in the same enclosure, right?
 
You do realize I never said I installed a 120V line in the box, right? ;)

Admittedly, that was my goal, but I couldn't figure out a way to do it. I didn't trust all that weight on the plastic cover. Besides, the camera base took up too much space, because I couldn't find one with a 3/4" threaded stem. So I have 2 separate boxes: one for the lights, and one for the camera.
 
As @sebastiantombs says power and data should be kept separate. This is because Cat 5/6 networking cable is not rated for mains voltage 120/230v.

The easiest way to accomplish this is to have a separate floodlight and camera with a separate junction box for each.

The advantage of this is you will have 2 separate systems working together but if 1 goes down the other will function. I doubt the light/ camera combi would offer this redundancy. Also buying separates you will end up with a better camera and better floodlight and ultimately a better more versatile system.
 
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As @sebastiantombs says power and data should be kept separate. The easiest way to accomplish this is to have a separate floodlight and camera with a separate junction box for each.

The advantage of this is you will have 2 separate systems working together but if 1 goes down the other will function. I doubt the light/ camera combi would offer this redundancy. Also buying separates you will end up with a better camera and better floodlight and ultimately a better more versatile system.

Well, that's what I ended up doing anyway, though I wish you guys would have chimed in earlier. I wasted a lot of time trying to solve a problem that would have violated code. And I have the inspection on the electrical work coming up soon. That would have been annoying to have to redo it.
 
If I had seen your post I would have responded in February.

The bottom line is that there is no combined camera/floodlight that is commercially available and worth installing. Floodlight and a cheap camera just don't cut it. Another problem, even when using separate units and triggering the floodlight with the camera, is that the camera is momentarily blinded by the sudden change in lighting, just like we are.
 
I've only recently started contributing to the site well after you started this thread. I just seen the new posts and replied.

My experience of the site is all positive and and i also wish i was here earlier to have chimed in lol :)

Good luck with electrical inspection
 
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Well, that's what I ended up doing anyway, though I wish you guys would have chimed in earlier. I wasted a lot of time trying to solve a problem that would have violated code. And I have the inspection on the electrical work coming up soon. That would have been annoying to have to redo it.
A simple way around having to run power to the location is a POE powered floodlight. I wouldnt have reported the minor electrical work anyway.
Here is just one example
 
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If I had seen your post I would have responded in February.

The bottom line is that there is no combined camera/floodlight that is commercially available and worth installing. Floodlight and a cheap camera just don't cut it. Another problem, even when using separate units and triggering the floodlight with the camera, is that the camera is momentarily blinded by the sudden change in lighting, just like we are.


I found this out when i installed my cameras but i have found what i think is a work around for me anyway and it may help others or generate ideas / discussions. I have 5442 cameras and downlighters under the eaves.

Starting of with @wittaj suggested night settings exposure 0 - 8.3ms and gain 0-50 I noticed this happening. I found setting the exposure to 8.3 - 8.3ms and gain 0-50 stopped this happening. I believe this is fixing it instead of giving it a range to work on. Learning as I go i stand to be corrected on this.

As a side note i found the night quite bright and dropped and fixed the exposure too 6.25. I can't remember what the gain is. Maybe time for a more extensive review of the footage to see how things are going lol
 
Since people seem interested, I just went out and took a pic to show you my install.

It's annoying. I actually wanted the camera to be higher, but the plumber I hired for my bathroom remodel installed a drain in the exterior wall that goes right over where I wanted to install the camera. He drilled through 2 studs almost completely. I may have them redo it and sister the studs. Anyway, if I'd put the camera above it, it would have had a horrible angle to the side door - with the awning in the way. With this angle, the light is in view of the bottom of the camera image, but whatever.
Also, the camera base has a hole for an optional alternative wiring. I made sure that was on the bottom, below the level of the hole in the middle of the gasket I custom-cut.

94AE660E-F7FF-41D4-87EE-70A0E6C0143E.jpeg
 
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I always used blank covers, with their own gasket, and drilled holes as needed.
 
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have you consider a 12Vdc spot lights? Depending on the coverage, there are many off-roads lights (12Vdc) with different wattage. You may use an ip-cam with an external relay to activate the spot, plus extra time for diy modifications. Also consider you may need to increase the 12V power supply current (amps)
 

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I always used blank covers, with their own gasket, and drilled holes as needed.
Yes, the cover has its own gasket which I am using. I'm talking about a gasket between the camera base and the outside of the cover. The camera base doesn't have (and didn't come with) a gasket. You can see the custom gasket in the photo I posted above.
 
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Remember you can always make your own with silicon if need be
 
Duct Seal is far better than silicon. It can be easily removed and reused.