DS-HD1 Hikvision Doorbell offline, can't get on network

[Steve_LV]

I installed a DS-HD1 doorbell and had it working. I then installed another one to the other side of my condo, and the first one went offline and started flashing red. I found this forum and read the F.A.Q. about the DS-HD1 doorbells, so I took the power off for an hour, and that didn't reset it, so I left the power off for 48 hours, but it still won't come on the network or accept a reset. I assume the problem was both of them had the same port number (8000), so I changed the one that is online to (8080) and I can see it fine. Any ideas on how to reset the original one, or get the network to see it? I'm using a Eero Wifi 6 router.
Thanks,
Steve

 

[David L]

I installed a DS-HD1 doorbell and had it working. I then installed another one to the other side of my condo, and the first one went offline and started flashing red. I found this forum and read the F.A.Q. about the DS-HD1 doorbells, so I took the power off for an hour, and that didn't reset it, so I left the power off for 48 hours, but it still won't come on the network or accept a reset. I assume the problem was both of them had the same port number (8000), so I changed the one that is online to (8080) and I can see it fine. Any ideas on how to reset the original one, or get the network to see it? I'm using a Eero Wifi 6 router.
Thanks,
Steve

So when you say the DB is not accepting the reset are you getting the voice prompts you get when you first setup the DB? I would post this question on our Thread:

New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

HIKVISION DOORBELL101 HIKVISION (DS-HD1), RCA (HSDB2A), EZVIZ (DB1), LAVIEW (LV-PDB1630-U), NELLY'S (NSC-DB2), LTS (LTH-7132-WIFI) TRY OUR EXPERIMENTAL OFFLINE 101 * NEW RCA OWNERS READ WARNINGS: SECTION * * IF YOUR CHIME AS RECENTLY (2020) STOPPED WORKING AFTER APP UPDATE, SEE TROUBLESHOOTING...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[Steve_LV]

No, I don't get to the voice prompts when I push the reset button. I've tried to hold it for 5 seconds and over 20 seconds, but it just keeps slowly flashing red.

 

[tspevacek]

I noticed on my Ezviz DB1 I was having a power creep issue. I have attempted several different transformers, I even went as far to order a second DB1. I had installed all new wiring and a brand new chime. Transformer is in the basement and I replaced the wiring from the transformer to the Chime, and the transformer to the DB1 location. It seems that over time The voltage drops across the system in 4 days it would go from 18v to down below 8 volts. I have installed a normal door bell for testing purposes and for 2 weeks now it has remained functional with no voltage drop. I am using the latest chime, I forgot to mention I have tried 3 different chimes during this as well. In wiring the Doorbell with out the chime they give a fuse to install but that was a no go as it was a flat 10 volt drop across the fuse. I had never seen so much drop across a single fuse, a buddy stated he had seen some slow blows with resistors in them in some appliances do the same thing. I have another transformer I picked up and will be setting up a proof of concept on my bench in the garage for a week or so to see if I get better luck. If I can figure the voltage creep out I will end up with an ezviz and front and back door.

Test your voltages at all points where you have connections I suspect you will see a big voltage drop somewhere, such as I did. I was starting to think I was to stupid to wire the door bell, which is funny considering I work on electronic currency counting equipment for a living. I am sure the wiring on it is way more complex then a door bell circuit.

 

[David L]

I noticed on my Ezviz DB1 I was having a power creep issue. I have attempted several different transformers, I even went as far to order a second DB1. I had installed all new wiring and a brand new chime. Transformer is in the basement and I replaced the wiring from the transformer to the Chime, and the transformer to the DB1 location. It seems that over time The voltage drops across the system in 4 days it would go from 18v to down below 8 volts. I have installed a normal door bell for testing purposes and for 2 weeks now it has remained functional with no voltage drop. I am using the latest chime, I forgot to mention I have tried 3 different chimes during this as well. In wiring the Doorbell with out the chime they give a fuse to install but that was a no go as it was a flat 10 volt drop across the fuse. I had never seen so much drop across a single fuse, a buddy stated he had seen some slow blows with resistors in them in some appliances do the same thing. I have another transformer I picked up and will be setting up a proof of concept on my bench in the garage for a week or so to see if I get better luck. If I can figure the voltage creep out I will end up with an ezviz and front and back door.

Test your voltages at all points where you have connections I suspect you will see a big voltage drop somewhere, such as I did. I was starting to think I was to stupid to wire the door bell, which is funny considering I work on electronic currency counting equipment for a living. I am sure the wiring on it is way more complex then a door bell circuit.

So first thought to mind, did you install the Power Kit? It is actually a power regulator. On our Thread there have a been a few that found they had bad power kits.

Our Thread: DOORBELL101

This video helped me understand transformers and Load used for these DBs:


HTH

 

[tspevacek]

So first thought to mind, did you install the Power Kit? It is actually a power regulator. On our Thread there have a been a few that found they had bad power kits.

Our Thread: DOORBELL101

This video helped me understand transformers and Load used for these DBs:


HTH

I started with a 16 V 10VA or 15 VA and assumed that was the issue and installed a 16V 30VA transformer. I have tried with and with out the power kit. The Fuse was a straight no go from the start because of the massive voltage drop across it. I Have tried 2 different digital chimes and 1 mechanical chime. 2 different power kits, well technically 3 different power kits cause I tried one from a different brand door bell cam. I love problem solving and do not like a piece of electronics to beat me. I am going to do my test board in the garage with coiled wire so it will be about the same length as I installed in the house. I bought a 500 foot spool cause it was the first one I could grab same day, pretty sure I only did about 75 foot of wire for the house install. I originally thought the original wiring in the house was the issue because of being an unknown age. I am using solid copper wire and not clad because I know that will make a huge difference. Hell I even installed a new drop for the transformer to ensure it was getting clean power. I think it may come down to a wifi issue in the house was making the doorbell work harder then it should have to stay connected causing it to keep drawing power to the point it would power down, just a theory I have about what was going on. I have since fully upgraded my home network and now running on TP Link Omada APs on my entire property. Was using Linksys equipment before and since swapping to the Omada I have noticed my google displays no longer randomly reconnect to the network like they used to do. that is the reason I came up with the theory on the wifi being an issue.

I have 3 different brand doorbell cams at the house currently and will test each one to see what kind of results I get.
2 X EZVIZ DB1
Amcrest
Zeinith

After a few weeks I will post back what kind of results I end up with. I deal with line voltage, both 48V Pos and 48V Neg circuits, 24 12 and 8 volt circuits with the equipment from work so I am pretty good at trouble shooting low voltage circuits both AC and DC.

 

[David L]

I started with a 16 V 10VA or 15 VA and assumed that was the issue and installed a 16V 30VA transformer. I have tried with and with out the power kit. The Fuse was a straight no go from the start because of the massive voltage drop across it. I Have tried 2 different digital chimes and 1 mechanical chime. 2 different power kits, well technically 3 different power kits cause I tried one from a different brand door bell cam. I love problem solving and do not like a piece of electronics to beat me. I am going to do my test board in the garage with coiled wire so it will be about the same length as I installed in the house. I bought a 500 foot spool cause it was the first one I could grab same day, pretty sure I only did about 75 foot of wire for the house install. I originally thought the original wiring in the house was the issue because of being an unknown age. I am using solid copper wire and not clad because I know that will make a huge difference. Hell I even installed a new drop for the transformer to ensure it was getting clean power. I think it may come down to a wifi issue in the house was making the doorbell work harder then it should have to stay connected causing it to keep drawing power to the point it would power down, just a theory I have about what was going on. I have since fully upgraded my home network and now running on TP Link Omada APs on my entire property. Was using Linksys equipment before and since swapping to the Omada I have noticed my google displays no longer randomly reconnect to the network like they used to do. that is the reason I came up with the theory on the wifi being an issue.

I have 3 different brand doorbell cams at the house currently and will test each one to see what kind of results I get.
2 X EZVIZ DB1
Amcrest
Zeinith

After a few weeks I will post back what kind of results I end up with. I deal with line voltage, both 48V Pos and 48V Neg circuits, 24 12 and 8 volt circuits with the equipment from work so I am pretty good at trouble shooting low voltage circuits both AC and DC.

Yeah, you are covering everything I can think of. I know these units get Real Hot, it was a concern when I first got mine, in July 2019, but it is coming up on it's third Summer and still going. I live down South in 100 plus temps. I recorded 130 degrees on the unit during the Summer months with the wall being 100.



The Test Bench will tell all...Also keep in mind, firmware plays a big part in this too. Many on our Thread are running the Hikvision firmware on their EZVIZs...Now I am not aware that the latest EZVIZ firmware had any connection issues, they mainly are running the Hik firmware for opened up features, like ONVIF support...

Oh BTW, I have two EAPs myself, EAP225, EAP245, I have had great performance out of them. Been keeping my eye on the EAP620 and EAP640 for the new WiFi 6, they will also do WPA3 security...I love my TP-Link equip., I have several of their Managed Switches...

 

[tspevacek]

So 2 days up and not a single issue I check the power in the morning and evening to see if it is holding stable. It is the exact same way I set it up originally except I have a different 16V 30VA transformer running it on the bench. It has stayed connected to the wifi and I will randomly pull it up during the day to see if it had failed.

My wifi set up is a PFsense box, i3 10100 16GB of Ram 2 onboard lan ports and a 4 port intel lan card. One issue I have is no support in PFsense for my 2.5 GB nic on the mother board. I have all TP link switches some POE and some just managed. I am using the OC200 for control on the APs, for APs I have 2 EAP245s 1 in attic and 1 in the detached garage. I have 1 EAP225 Outdoor on my pavilion and 2 EAP 225 walls 1 in living room and 1 in the master bedroom. I stay at full wifi signal across my entire 1/4 acre lot even at the outer edges. The House is an 1100 sq foot rancher with a full finished basement funny thing is garage is as big as the house.

 

[David L]

So 2 days up and not a single issue I check the power in the morning and evening to see if it is holding stable. It is the exact same way I set it up originally except I have a different 16V 30VA transformer running it on the bench. It has stayed connected to the wifi and I will randomly pull it up during the day to see if it had failed.

My wifi set up is a PFsense box, i3 10100 16GB of Ram 2 onboard lan ports and a 4 port intel lan card. One issue I have is no support in PFsense for my 2.5 GB nic on the mother board. I have all TP link switches some POE and some just managed. I am using the OC200 for control on the APs, for APs I have 2 EAP245s 1 in attic and 1 in the detached garage. I have 1 EAP225 Outdoor on my pavilion and 2 EAP 225 walls 1 in living room and 1 in the master bedroom. I stay at full wifi signal across my entire 1/4 acre lot even at the outer edges. The House is an 1100 sq foot rancher with a full finished basement funny thing is garage is as big as the house.

So you have a similar network to mine...I too am running pfSense and have TP-Link Managed switches and the same APs as you. I did just order a EAP660, which I am excited to ry out WiFi 6 when it arrives, also WPA3. So my DB is about 30 feet way from an AP which the front door and side window in it's path. I found I had to stay on 2.4GHz to keep a good connection. 5.0 is great for indoors but even being that close, I noticed issues, the same AP (EAP245) is servicing my backyard/pool. 2.4 there works best too. I am running two streams from the DB and 2.4 seems to work fine, also one is at 30FPS recording 24/7

HTH

Oh BTW, I love my TP-Link gear...Zero network issues, these switches are extremely fast, also running pfSense on a Qotom i5 5th gen. box, 4 NICs too, only have 8 gigs of Ram, which seems to be plenty...

 

[tspevacek]

1 week of live on the DB1 on the TP-Link and will say it has not had 1 fall out. I think my theory on the wifi getting week and the Doorbell over drawing power causing it to go offline had some basis to it.

I have every one of the TP Link APs set up the same and TP link website does not list the wall units as having mesh they seem to be working as mesh, either that or the 245 just does that good of coverage the walls are being wasted. I can walk around my entire 1/4 acre lot and have full wifi strength. The basement does not have any APs set up in it and I still have great signal down there.

 

[David L]

1 week of live on the DB1 on the TP-Link and will say it has not had 1 fall out. I think my theory on the wifi getting week and the Doorbell over drawing power causing it to go offline had some basis to it.

I have every one of the TP Link APs set up the same and TP link website does not list the wall units as having mesh they seem to be working as mesh, either that or the 245 just does that good of coverage the walls are being wasted. I can walk around my entire 1/4 acre lot and have full wifi strength. The basement does not have any APs set up in it and I still have great signal down there.

I have to say mine are rock solid too...I did have an issue last week though, I tried to upgrade the firmware on both APs through a browser (Chrome) and both got stuck at 100%, so after about 10 minutes I tried to get back into them and no go. When I went to look at them they were flashing green (solid green 3-4 secs then flash). I have upgraded this way before with no problem. I do not use their Controller software, just HTTPing into them. Anyway, I contacted Tech and they referred me to Tier 3 Engineering. They never told me their outcome but I assume they are working on it. What I had end up having to do is factory Reset both APs which would of been ok had they excepted the config files I kept prior, but they didn't, I had to manually add all my settings back in. I only have 3 VLANs and 3 SSIDs on these so it was not a problem, but that should not of happened with a firmware update.

Don't know much about MESH networking:

How to Build a Mesh Network via Omada EAP in Controller Mode | TP-Link

How to Build a Mesh Network via Omada EAP in Controller Mode

www.tp-link.com