Emergency Power/Storms/Prepping etc

Yeah for $14 thats a no brainer

The old owner added the meters, but the wiring could have been better, hopefully he doesn't find this thread :D

The wires were not very tight in the meters, and the hot side was wired to the wrong side of the 240v breaker, so if it ever came loose, it would be hot 120v in the panel with no short circuit protection. Glad I noticed that and fixed it

The meters are good, but they have no decimal on the frequency, which would have been nice. Good for a quick glance to see current though
 
Hope you guys like reading about this light tower, because its all I'm going to post for the coming year. Got some compound and tried to get rid of the sunbelt logo, and it did good but took too many passes. I am going to look for some 2000 and 3000 grit sanding disks so I can go a bit deeper, a bit quicker. The paint does shine up nice!

For $42 this DA buffer is pretty good

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Honestly the easiest way to do that would be to completely remove the sheet metal, sand/buff everything then reinstall it all again.

I use a buffer like this and it makes quick work of paint cutting/buffing.

Quick coupler.

These are the buffing pads.

Compound (not cheap but works way better, it’s what the pros use)

Not a cheap setup overall but once you have it you can buff a car (or generator) just as well as any detailer or auto body shop. Make sure to do it in the shade so the compound doesn’t dry out too fast and keep moving around so you don’t burn the paint.
 
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I really have no desire to take it all apart, that would make it something I have to get done. Maybe if I had a spare garage bay it would work

If I do it on the machine, I can do section at a time as I have the time, between work etc
 
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Your way would be better for around the lights and bolts though, I have not yet figured out how I'll get around those done

My main thing is trying to get rid of the logos, as long as it can blend somewhat, I'll be happy
 
IReallyLikePizza2 said:
I really have no desire to take it all apart, that would make it something I have to get done. Maybe if I had a spare garage bay it would work

If I do it on the machine, I can do section at a time as I have the time, between work etc
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Totally your call, just may be hard to get it evened out with it all assembled. Heck if it was apart you could even take it to be powder coated too (you can even change the color if you wanted). Anyway at the very least I would try the 3M compound (use a different pad for each compound grit) and maybe wet sanding with 400 grit if you have trouble getting the oxidation off.
 
The oxidation came right off with the compound, but the paint is just so faded I need to go a bit deeper

I would love to change the color, but I suspect that might end up costing more than the generator. Doing a nice dark green or grey would be awesome
 
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IReallyLikePizza2 said:
The oxidation came right off with the compound, but the paint is just so faded I need to go a bit deeper

I would love to change the color, but I suspect that might end up costing more than the generator. Doing a nice dark green or grey would be awesome
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Yes very likely it will be quite expensive to sand blast and powder coat it all again.

If you have cars that get dinged, bumped, lightly scratched, etc then that buffer setup I linked to will make short work of that and this generator job too. Again there is an investment but the compound lasts quite a while. If you ever want to sell it, you wont lose much because it holds value extremely well too. I use mine way more than I thought I would.
 
People sell their tools?
 
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IReallyLikePizza2 said:
People sell their tools?
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They are very hard to find used and in good condition, especially fully set up with all that stuff. It definitely wouldn’t last long before someone snatched it up. Again that’s really a pro setup but makes the job so much easier/faster.
 
Easier for the next guy, ignore my horrible spray job. It will do...

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Got the junction box and block heater switch in place for the 120v inlet

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