Funning 12 volt devices with a POE switch for electricity only.

I wouldn't buy anything Reolink. Too many quality issues for me. I do think the 10-watt 12-volt cheapie motion sensor light will return. They were actually pretty good lights. I just don't want to pay 4x the price. I like the cool white. Most of the lights I run off 12v 3 amp power supplies. 10 Watts per amp off them. The ones I'll be running off POE will be in places I don't have electricity. I have a ton of ethernet cable, so it's easy for me to run lights anywhere I like without screwing around with solar.

When the Ebay sellers are selling them again, I'm buying 30 or so lights. They are basically disposables. I don't need control. I want them to come on when there's motion. If you're in a house with a small lawn, you'll have different needs than me. Maybe you want the Reolinks. I have 6 acres.
 
mackmadera said:
Does that bother you? If so, you might be spending too much time online for your mental health. wink.
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I have never been bothered by trying to help anyone.
But I do regret later that I have wasted my time on a few occasions.... wink back at ya
 
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quiet.tea said:
Thanks! I do like how simple it looks although I wish there an option for a 5000K tint.
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When you're talking 12volts, your options are just a lot more limited. If you look on eBay, the sellers all have 12v motion lights listed, but the choice is greyed out, and they have no stock. These are nice lights though and I love that I can tell my wife that anywhere she wants a light, I'll do it. If I've got close 110v, I use these.
 
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Not to derail this thread but since the topic of plug-in power supplies (i.e. "wall warts"), I encourage everyone to be wary of using non-UL listed wall warts, power supplies, electronic and electric devices, appliances, etc. in or around your home or place of business.

So many of the receptacles with USB outlets, wall-mounted chargers and wall wart power supplies and similar line-powered devices and appliances are NOT. They haven't been tested for current limiting and for combustion-supporting materials. The UL-listing costs a couple of dollars more but IMO, it's worth it.:cool:

I've heard of insurance companies not honoring claims if it was discovered that a non-UL Listed device caused a fire. I don't have first hand knowledge of this actually happening but can envision them doing that after knowing what they're tried to squirm out of paying in the past.

I DO have first hand knowledge of this, though....about spring of 2017 I installed a Ubiquiti Nanostation M2 PtP wireless bridge between a client's trucking company office (20Mbps down ADSL) and the co. owner's 2 story / 2,500 sq ft. house on the same property about 800 ft. away. A wireless router in AP mode connected to the station side of the bridge sent Wi-Fi throughout the home, both floors. Worked great for close to 2 years...until the house burned down. The state fire marshal/inspector told them the fire started in the master bedroom and was positive it was caused by a "faulty" phone charge plugged in. The owner told me in wasn't the one that came with the phone but was a cheap one she had bought at a local chain store. In a small town of 1,100 people in southeastern U.S. we can deduce what store that was and the quality of phone chargers sold there. :wtf:

UL-Listed.jpg
 
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TonyR said:
Not to derail this thread but since the topic of plug-in power supplies (i.e. "wall warts"), I encourage everyone to be wary of using non-UL listed wall warts, power supplies, electronic and electric devices, appliances, etc. in or around your home or place of business.

So many of the receptacles with USB outlets, wall-mounted chargers and wall wart power supplies and similar line-powered devices and appliances are NOT. They haven't been tested for current limiting and for combustion-supporting materials. The UL-listing costs a couple of dollars more but IMO, it's worth it.:cool:

I've heard of insurance companies not honoring claims if it was discovered that a non-UL Listed device caused a fire. I don't have first hand knowledge of this actually happening but can envision them doing that after knowing what they're tried to squirm out of paying in the past.

I DO have first hand knowledge of this, though....about spring of 2017 I installed a Ubiquiti Nanostation M2 PtP wireless bridge between a client's trucking company office (20Mbps down ADSL) and the co. owner's 2 story / 2,500 sq ft. house on the same property about 800 ft. away. A wireless router in AP mode connected to the station side of the bridge sent Wi-Fi throughout the home, both floors. Worked great for close to 2 years...until the house burned down. The state fire marshal/inspector told them the fire started in the master bedroom and was positive it was caused by a "faulty" phone charge plugged in. The owner told me in wasn't the one that came with the phone but was a cheap one she had bought at a local chain store. In a small town of 1,100 people in southeastern U.S. we can deduce what store that was and the quality of phone chargers sold there. :wtf:

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Something to think about. Looking at some of mine, they only say "made in China".
 
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mackmadera said:
Something to think about. Looking at some of mine, they only say "made in China".
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Like many things, there are no guarantees and sure cures....but for me, and when given a choice, I go with the UL Listing for myself or things I place in clients' homes or businesses. I sleep better and between a swollen prostate, bad disks and arthritis I like having one less thing disturbing my sleep or being concerned about! :cool:
 
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looney2ns said:
I agree, I won't use anything that is not UL listed.

Insurers are looking for ANY reason these days to deny claims.
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It would even be worth it to take pics of all your devices. We don't insure. I own it free and clear and we're building a house next year for cash. That's a racket here in Florida. I am not subsidizing someone foolishly living on the coast.
 
mackmadera said:
It would even be worth it to take pics of all your devices. We don't insure. I own it free and clear and we're building a house next year for cash. That's a racket here in Florida. I am not subsidizing someone foolishly living on the coast.
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I insure my wife's run-down house in a broke-down, deserted mining town where her birth mom lives in case it burns down and sets the neighborhood on fire...it's paid for too so the building itself is not insured but there would be liability attached if it did, in fact, burn down or damage adjacent houses...so I carry liability on it only.:cool:
 
looktall said:
You don't insure your house?
What about your vehicles?
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I have 5k deductible on wife's new car, paid off in a few months. I have a 2015 Prius, don't insure it at all. What's going to happen to my house that I can't fix myself? I save $7,000 on insurance every year. Just the way I see the best risk/reward. Insurance is a racket.
 
TonyR said:
I insure my wife's run-down house in a broke-down, deserted mining town where her birth mom lives in case it burns down and sets the neighborhood on fire...it's paid for too so the building itself is not insured but there would be liability attached if it did, in fact, burn down or damage adjacent houses...so I carry liability on it only.:cool:
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Sounds prudent to me. We're on 6 acre parcels. No risk of fire jumping. I prefer to keep my premiums. Building a house this fall, looking to start building a spec house the following year. That I'll insure.
 
Yes, adapters that convert Power over Ethernet (PoE) to a 12V output without using the Ethernet part of the connection are available. These adapters are commonly referred to as PoE splitters. They are designed to extract power from the PoE line and convert it to a lower voltage, typically 12V, while ignoring the data component.
When selecting a PoE splitter for your needs, ensure it supports a 48V input, which is common for PoE. It should also provide a 12V output with a current rating suitable for your application. Additionally, look for one with a DC barrel connector, usually 5.5mm x 2.1mm or 5.5mm x 2.5mm, to easily connect your 12V devices.
Given that you are planning long cable runs and only need power, PoE is an efficient option, as it performs better over long distances compared to directly running 12V. You can find PoE to 12V splitters from manufacturers such as TP-Link, Ubiquiti, or specialized electronics suppliers. Make sure the splitter you choose meets the power requirements of your devices.
If you're also looking for opportunities in the field of electrical engineering, consider searching for "electrical engineering jobs near you" to find local positions that might suit your skills and interests.
 
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Helm Tetler said:
Yes, adapters that convert Power over Ethernet (PoE) to a 12V output without using the Ethernet part of the connection are available. These adapters are commonly referred to as PoE splitters.
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Man, so glad I logged in today and read this nugget of valuable info. :wtf:
Thanks, bot!
 
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