I have never gone fully 100% out on properly grounding or bonding an outdoor rated network cable
When it comes to a couple hundred dollars worth of equipment, customers are advised we can only go so far with fuses and the rest would be up to hiring an electrician for the grounding/bonding portion. We would just use fuses at each end of the cable (either for digital/analog devices or IP devices). However, from what I've seen what they do is to have the drain wire from the network cable on 1 end (not both ends) bonded to a grounding bar which in itself is attached to a grounding bar. Notice, that green foil is not used for grounding/bonding purposes, only the drain wire (telecomm folks dispute this here & there, but we have never used foil for underground purposes...but do use often near 3phase machinery or industrial electronics. e customer has thousands and thousands of dollars in equipment at the other end, yes....we recommend fiber for that comfort and bandwidth purpose.
How I would run a burial rated Cat6 cable 150' in a home environment? Dig 12" down and install 1/2" PVC if mostly a straight line with only 45 -> 4" straight -> 45 sweeps at one end and 45 -> 4" straight -> 45 at the other end (never 90's), not 18", not 24", not 36". This is low voltage wiring, not 110 A/C so think 12v landscape lighting local codes. I would also put yellow warning tape a couple inches above the PVC pipe upon back filling to warn future folk of what's there. I would run only 1 network cable, not 2 or 3 or 4. If the PVC breaks, any number of cables in the pipe will all break so why bother with more than 1. If possible, each end the conduit does not pop out of the ground in outside environments but rather penetrating inside basement to shed, for example. If has to pop out on the outside, rides up side of shed or house about 3' (to where all the Charter or AT&T box heights are) and has a 4" box to end at. We always keep a following pull string with every pull. We use duct seal (kinda of like silly putty) at each end of the conduit to prevent critters getting in.
Option 1: cheap method is to use those ethernet fuse blocks at each end (we do this often) as the customer dictates the end result.
Option 2: slap in a 8' deep ground rod at one end and attach the drain wire to it (or to a grounding bar that is attached to the grounding rod. We do this seldom, but have assisted the electrician while doing it.
Option 3: shielded patch cords, shielded patch panel, shielded switches....you get the idea. Well out of the home DIY budget for sure. Only have done this once.
We take care of a ski lodge up in the Sierra Mountains which gets billions and billions of lighting strikes due to the elevation and storm fronts, for both voice & data. In the beginning, their local maintenance guy ran/buried all the wiring without grounding used. Lots of blown analog/digital station cards in their phone system a year. He retired, new guy comes in and asks us why cards get blown. We showed him example of non-grounded Cat 3 25 pair burial cable. He hired electrician to go around to each cable and properly ground with option 2 above. Has not blown a fuse or card in the last 10 years.
I currently have that Dahua weather camera along with my weather station on a 12' pole, 100% not grounded at all connected to my $1000 Ubiuiti POE switch. I'm ok with it but will be slapping in a ethernet fuse block just in case.
Grounding home DIY personal electrical equipment is like dust collection for wood working. Some get by with a wet/dry vac, some get by with a 1HP single bag dust collector, some get by with a 3HP dual filtered dust collector (like myself), some get by with those $2000 cyclone dust collection systems.
