Hello everyone, I most probably need your help ;-)

"Later"
I installed a 20 year old Realtek Nic (100 Mbit/s), set the cam back to the default 1.108 and moved it to that nic. Works as expected. I am off the router for the time being.

I now need a solution to the loss of the main stream in my current browsers. And I need to check out the dahua viewer.

Update: I checked out the dahua viewer on the notebook. Does not lose the main stream.

I also installed the PC-NVR from the same installer package. When I try to start it, I get MSVCP140.dll , VCRuntime140.dll missing. I am installing the C++ libraries atm.
 
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PC-NVR sucks. Almost nobody uses it.

If you are going to use a PC as an NVR, then best to go with Blue Iris.

It has a free demo, so download it and when it asks for a product key, select the demo version.
 
PC-NVR sucks. Almost nobody uses it.
If you are going to use a PC as an NVR, then best to go with Blue Iris.

Yes, figured what it does, uninstalled it.

What I now need is a way to get a working Internet Explorer on my main PC! That is one thing that I would like to fix. I have searched the web but there are so many posts that pertain to earlier Win10 patch level...
Is it possible to use an older version of IE? Like 10 or 9? What can I do?
 
Just use one of the fixes in this thread LOL. Renaming the BHO folder is simple and keeps you with IE.

 
Hello everyone!
I have registered here to benefit from your compiled experience.

My minimum goal is to recognize a moving person at night at 10 ft. or less. If the person is unknown, the ability to identify would be great. There are several light sources present, street lights, motion activated lights and permanent lights. One might barely be able to read a page at the level of illumination.

I have played around with consumer systems like blink or rechargable reolinks and realized that I need a better system and control over the shutter speed to have a chance. Blinks are just toys, and the reolink cam can't do the job at night. The Argus 3 Pro has no shutter control, so moving objects are blurry (as is common knowledge here). But I must give it credit that it's detection itself has created no false positives and no known false negatives so far. In other words, I never got a "person alert" that didn't have a person and when we passed it, it always send a person alert. It has registered a ton of motion alerts without persons and classified them correctly. So while I can't use it to recognize someone reliably at night, I may turn the siren and lights alarm function on. (I just mention all this because other members commented they like to know where one stands.)

I also experimented with a cheap Reolink Lumus which offers 24/7 to SDcard and can turn off all active (IR/visible) lights. I can use it through a window. I can also lower the shutter speed manually on this one so blur turns into a person with some "holes". I can recognize myself on that now. Perhaps there is some other change to improve the result, like adding bandwith?

My immediate objective now is to pick one suitable starlight camera, to find out myself what to expect from a real low light system. And this is why I post here. In the long run, I expect to set up a system outside via POE. From reading here, I will likely be fine with 2 or 4 Mp resolution. So I need a capable sensor for low light. I have to settle for a focal lenght too. The person will likely not be further than 8-9 ft away from the camera when it enters the fov. I have seen many cameras with focal points beyond that distance. With fixed focal ranges, it seems that I am limited to 2.8mm? How blurry do 4mm cams get when people get closer? Should I get a varifocal, even thou that will cost me f-stop? Would that have auto focus? Or can I set a distance range? And how fast would auto focus respond?

The camera needs to be able to record continuously on some SD. I would also like to use the opportunity to take a look at the smartphone app, to see how that works. I'd also like to monitor it from a computer. In the long run, a dedicated recorder is planned do the job.
Aside from testing it in varous parts of the house, I would use it for stop gap monitoring through a window. Which means, I must be able to turn off all camera lights. The camera should have an intelligent detection so that it flags the recording with the various detects. If it can send push messages to the phone, that would be nice too.

As I reside in Europe, I checked local offers. From Hikvision I found a DS-2CD2047G2-LU/SL and an DS-2CD2047G2-L(U) as something that seems suitable from the sensor size, f-stop, focal length and intelligence. I'd probably rather have this with IR, but was not able to find it in all their products.

So if you could help me to find my first low-light camera for a start, I would much appreciate it!

Many thanks in advance!
 
:)You can also wire up an IR Illuminator to flood a large area for better view past the IR built into the camera itself.
 
Ok, I stumbled upon the next possible construction site: Firmware. When I enter the GUI and chose System > Upgrade I get this displayed:
2.820.15OG004.0.R, Build Date: 2021-07-29
I would be surprised if that is the latest one. I sit in Europe, my box said something about EU version.
From reading here, IIRC there was a new Andy firmware followed by Dahua version.
What should I do?
 
Most here do not update if the camera works for them, so if you are using it and it meets your needs, don't update unless the update notes specifically mention adding or fixing something broke with yours.

I have several 5442 cameras all running different firmware depending on when I bought it.

With that said, Andy's cameras are international versions.

You can update the firmware on Andy's cameras and NVRs from the Dahua website, thus proving they are real Dahua. But you will find that the firmware we get from him is actually better and more recent than what is on the Dahua website because many members here provide feedback to Andy and then Dahua makes modifications to the firmware and sends back to him and then he sends out to his customers.

These have been great improvements that Dahua doesn't even update their firmware and add to their website. So many of us are running a newer firmware than those that purchase Dahua cameras through professional installers. Smart IR on the 5442 series is one such improvement. Autotracking on the 49225 and 49425 PTZ is another. We got the next version of AI SMD 3.0 prior to anyone else as well.

Look at the threads here where members are actually testing firmware and improving it for Dahua - find a Dahua dealer with that type of relationship that Andy has with Dahua - I don't think you will find it. Look at the Dahua 4k camera on the 1/1.2" sensor as an example - Dahua provides cameras to Andy to sell before Dahua even made it available and look at all the improvements being made to the firmware from input from customers right here on this site. And the kicker is, we are not Dahua's target market - it is the professional installers...
 
Smart IR on the 5442 series is one such improvement.
And I need it at night. So I should download his firmware, save my current version and then flash the new one while using IE11? Is there anything in that procedure I have to watch specifically? How long does it take to flash? (So one doesn't get too nervous)
I download from this forum from resources or do I need to go elsewhere for a european firmware version?
 
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Does your show Smart IR on it now? I think it might have been added prior to your firmware.

Best practice is to factory reset 3 times, flash firmware update, factory reset 3 times and then set up from scratch. Do not import settings.

His cameras are international versions so his subforum has the files if you decide to do it.

 
Depends on where I look. in the web interface, I get illuminator off manual and auto. In Smart PSS, it is manual, off and smart. So I guess I won't mess with it now?

Is the web interface with IE as I could see that not showing up in another browser.

Looks like SmartIR was added August 2020, so yours should have Smart IR.
 
Thanks Ri22o - oK, so it has smart IR.

Wittaj, I brought IE 11 back to live, dumped all it's leftover links from a glorious past and set 1.108 as homepage. So yes, I access the web interface on a seperate nic through IE11 with plugin.

I read through the pertinant firmware thread and found the varifocal to be the one giving occasional issues. I do flash bios routinely on computer stuff. Yesterday I flashed several mainboards to their latest bios, had no problems. (Might update CPU to generation 9 and try blue iris). There is one side saying: "never fix a running system". The other side says: "It isn't running yet. It is in a perfect update setting on your desk. When, if not now?"
 
The other side says: "It isn't running yet. It is in a perfect update setting on your desk. When, if not now?"
As I have hardly made any settings changes, I have little work to lose from an update. This would be the best time. It won't get easier when it is up somewhere.

Update is done, went without problem. The only thing that I found irritating: After the update, my pw was no longer accepted. So I used the little button and voilá! But what would I have done if it were mounted somewhere? I tried "admin" as pw, but it didn't work.
 
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Yeah if you do update, right out of the box is when you do it.

And that is why you do any updates before it is hanging LOL.

A couple months ago I was bored (even though I have more than enough to do LOL) and even though I say don't fix what ain't broke often, I thought "hey let me update a perfectly working camera to add 2D and 3D noise reduction that one of my other 5442 cams has" and totally effed up the camera. Lost the ability to set FPS and encode and bitrate and couldn't factory reset from the GUI. Fortunately I was able to figure out the API to factory reset (instead of having to get out a ladder) and had the previous firmware already (one of the reasons why I figured it was ok to try because I could revert back since I had the previous firmware), but it took awhile to get the camera operational. But even now with a factory reset several times and going back firmware, the image is much darker than it was before for the same settings.
 
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I am now looking for a recording solution. I don't really have the time to look into BI right now, but need to get the system installed. So I am looking for a recording solution from Dahua. I looked at
NVR4108HS-8P-4KS2/L and NVR2108HS-8P-I2, both have integrated PoE. They both seem to have plenty of features for a home system.
 
Having build up my new system with BI last year, I’d say that getting it running doesn’t take too much time in the end. But it offers the flexibility to keep adjusting for perfect system. I started with using Dahua’s built in AI, but I’m now running it with also AI on the PC on some cameras (the field of view being hard for Dahua’s AI in some locations). If compared to the time spent with finding cam locations etc. it’s nothing. Just pointing out that it can appear intimidating, but isn’t so bad. Setting up an NVR would probably be faster, but the opportunity cost is the lost flexibility (though not having experience with these specific NVRs).
 
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Pay close attention to the bandwidth and total resolution that can be shown at the same time.

Not all NVRs are created equal.

It will be cheaper and more effective with BI/PC

A member here has mostly 4K cameras and needs 4 NVRs to process it all.

Bandwidth and # of cameras it can decode at full MP cannot be overlooked.
 
A short update:
I have ordered a NVR4208HS-4KS2/L. From the specs, the 2 doubles the bandwidth to 160 Mbps in relation to the 1 and also adds the second SATA port. I stumbled upon one at Amazon warehouse for a bargain basement price. If it delivers - great, if not - it goes back. I should get it next week.
I had already decided not to have the PoE injector in the NCR, so that I could change things in the future with less expense .

What I need now is a sturdy injector. As that will be hooked up to the recorder, it would be a bit of a waste if it were only rated 100 Mbps, would it not? After all, all traffic goes through that one line and I didn't buy a 160 Mbps recorder to have a 100 Mbit link.
Is there anything I have to watch for? I read that for home purposes, an unmanaged switch will do just fine.
So whatever that switch will be, it will need two gigabit ports for the recorder and the rest of the world. I have seen 8/10 port switches, 6/8 poe, two ports normal. As this eqipment is to operate 24/7, is there a recommendation as to what to pick for reliable and efficient operation at somewhat higher temperatures? I have had TP-Link equipment before, but it didn't quite convince me as reliable or efficient (used it to keep my coffee warm).