help with fishing line through vaulted ceiling

TonyR

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Doesn't look like Hardie Backer Board as it's usually tiled upon. However, wear a mask. Hardie board is a cement board and contains silica. Silica can do nasty things to your lungs. Drilling will send dust airborn. Sorry can't help with the fishing part.
+1 to ^^^ if it is Hardie board or Hardie shake and use an impact-rated masonry bit....no standard twist drill bits or paddle bits.
 

amrogers3

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questions for you guys, sorry I am a little slow and not so handy
  1. for that conduit, how would I secure that to the hardie plank?
  2. does the conduit take paint well?
  3. should I insert the conduit into the hole I drill for the hardie plank?
  4. what do you recommend to weather proof the 2 ends where the ethernet cable attaches to the camera and goes into the attic? black line is the conduit, blue is the ethernet cable
 

CCTVCam

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Hardie plank is cement based so use fixings for cement. Also beware the silica as mentioned above.

Finally I don't know what the impact strength of this stuff is and how easily boards break. Many cable fixings have hardened nails that can be hammered into cement lines or even brick so technically they should simply tap in into Hardie Board. However, be aware being a pressed board product it could be brittle and fracture. I suggest speaking to Hardie about the suitability of fixings and methods. I'd be tempted to look at fixings that could be screwed in. I'm sure there used to cable ties that were like a band of rubber with a a rounded end to put a screw through. Soemthing like a 1/4 inch screw would probably suffice. However, speak to Hardie.
 
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amrogers3

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I use a DiversaBit with a coat hanger to extend my reach when needed. The advantage of getting the tools is that you have them for the next time you want to install a camera or anything else that needs a low voltage cable. If you're a DIYer it's a no brainer.
ST, I need a DiversaBit for wood, correct? what size bit would you recommend for this?

You said I need to drill a 1/2 hole into the soffit. Is this because of the conduit? If so, what type of bit would you recommend for this?

I checked the tools link in the wiki but I couldn't find any of the tools needed for cable runs listed there

+1 to ^^^ if it is Hardie board or Hardie shake and use an impact-rated masonry bit....no standard twist drill bits or paddle bits.
Tony, are you saying it is not hardie? would I use the 3/8" masonry bit you recommended if I just run the ethernet cable through the hole without using conduit?
 

sebastiantombs

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Sorry, you posted while I was responding to the first question -

You could just stuff the liquid tight into the hole in the soffit but keep in mind the OD of the conduit is considerably larger than the ID. At the camera you'd need the appropriate box for the camera and there are connectors made for liquid tight conduit to thread into that box. I've used Krylon and RustOleum spray paint on it in full weather exposure with no problem.

You don't need a Diversabit for this. I have the hanging around from installing the alarm system and the six footer really extends reach out to the eaves when your in the attic.

I said a 1/2" hole to make it easier to work with the electrical snake. In reality you could use a 3/8 hole and drill on an angle, angled in the direction that you'll be fishing the wire to.
 

BORIStheBLADE

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Another tgoug
questions for you guys, sorry I am a little slow and not so handy
  1. for that conduit, how would I secure that to the hardie plank?
  2. does the conduit take paint well?
  3. should I insert the conduit into the hole I drill for the hardie plank?
  4. what do you recommend to weather proof the 2 ends where the ethernet cable attaches to the camera and goes into the attic? black line is the conduit, blue is the ethernet cable
1. There are one hole straps two hole straps and a conduit hanger.
2. It will but if beaten by the sun doesn't do well over time.
3. If you get the liquid tight that is non-metalic you can just shove it into your attic. The camera end you would get a connector and a outdoor box with matching connector sizes. If you were to get liquid tight with the metal core I'd do a connector in the attic so the ethernet cable doesn't get damaged.
4. camera end into box you dont need to worry about weather proofing it IF installed correctly.
 

CCTVCam

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ST, I need a DiversaBit for wood, correct? what size bit would you recommend for this?
It's not wood if it's Hardie it's a cement board. You'd need a masonary bit although sometimes you can drill through cement with a normal steel bit. Doesn't do the bit a lot of good through. I wouldn't use hammer if you use a masonary bit as being pressed board, I'm unsure how strong it will be. As I said above, talk to Hardie. they're the best ones to advise on safe methods of drilling and attaching stuff to the boards. The last thing you want is to do is break a board, and use a suitable mask.
 

IAmATeaf

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Probably showing how dumb I am but did anybody else wonder why the hell the op wanted a fishing line through his vaulted ceiling
 

sebastiantombs

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Yeah, he wants to mount a camera where that's the wiring path.

Thinking about it a little more it dawned on me the whole fishing problem can be avoided if he just runs a short piece of conduit up the front soffit, past the vaulted area, then drills through the soffit to avoid the vaulted ceiling area. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees. Painted to match, it won't look bad, IMHO, and will save a lot of cussing.
 
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SpacemanSpiff

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Probably showing how dumb I am but did anybody else wonder why the hell the op wanted a fishing line through his vaulted ceiling
I'm with you. I'm sure the others will come around in a bit.

"Yeah, a nice a co-polymer core with a fluorocarbon coating should do the trick... " lol
 

amrogers3

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Thinking about it a little more it dawned on me the whole fishing problem can be avoided if he just runs a short piece of conduit up the front soffit, past the vaulted area, then drills through the soffit to avoid the vaulted ceiling area. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees. Painted to match, it won't look bad, IMHO, and will save a lot of cussing.
I DEFINITELY want to save on the cussing. The easier the better.

ST, I was thinking, what about an outdoor rated cable instead of having to use conduit? I was reading on that liquid tight and conduit is going to add some complexities.

You heard of the brand Commscope? It is supposed to be very good for exterior use.
 
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sebastiantombs

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They all degrade over time when exposed to the weather. That side, you're under a soffit and out of direct sun/rain/snow exposure so it should last a long time. tend to use conduit for the convenience when I want to add a cable/camera or have to replace the cable for some reason.
 

amrogers3

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I was able to get up in the attic and take some pics. I will come through the soffit like you guys suggested and run it down the eave underneath. I can see light from the attic so it shouldn't be too difficult.

1634516370390.jpeg 1634516427978.jpeg
1634516469214.jpeg 1634516514469.png

Since I only need roughly 100' of outdoor, I was going to get Shireen DC-2030 CAT 6 cable, with LDPE + Dry Gel Tape and a roll of Cable Matters or Monoprice for the rest

I was going to tie all the camera cables into a Triplite or Cable Matters 16 port CAT6 patch panel, mounted on the wall.

Not sure what tool I need for these connectors:
1634516261405.png


Do I need any special crimper or tools for CAT6? I've got these:

IMG_5262.JPG IMG_5263.JPG
 

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sebastiantombs

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That's a "110" punch down tool for that patch panel. Punch down tools used to come with both a "66" blade and a "110" blade, but that was in the 80s-90s.
 

Mike A.

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I was able to get up in the attic and take some pics. I will come through the soffit like you guys suggested and run it down the eave underneath. I can see light from the attic so it shouldn't be too difficult.
That doesn't look bad at all. You shouldn't have any problems getting there.

As sebastian said, you have the 110 tool for the punch downs. Takes a little practice but not too difficult.
 

SpacemanSpiff

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The network tool kit you showed has the punch down tool needed. Follow the 568b termination legend on the patch panel
 
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