Hide cat5 between gutter and house
- Thread starter M3Driver
- Start date
Gargoile
Getting comfortable
It might be difficult to insert them and I'm in AZ with temps above 110 so nor sure if the glue would melt.
Jim I.
Getting comfortable
Maybe some long plastic wiring conduit. The flexible kind with a slit along the length to insert the wiring.
I am running the CAT5 under the eaves on the left then need to continue running the cable all the way to the right side (not shown) of the house. Rather than continue under the eave usinging clips I'd rather hide it by tucking it under the gutter. The second image shows the gap between the gutter and the stucco. I think wittaj's suggestion of using foam will work but I'm having a hard time finding a foam strip that doesn't have adhesive on one side which i'd rather avoid.
They call it rod stock. Any masonry supplier in your area will have a much larger selection.
+1^^^.
also "backer rod", different sizes @ Home Depot, Lowes, etc. ==>> Backer Rod
also "backer rod", different sizes @ Home Depot, Lowes, etc. ==>> Backer Rod
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Originally I was going to do that using this Raceway Roll but then I calculated how much the raceway would expand when going from 32 to 110 degrees and it was 4+ inches in a 16' run therefore it would buckle. That's why I switched to running under the eave using clips (then painted) and then under the gutter.
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I was thiking something one of these that you could probably find shorter lengths at a home hardware store:
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When cutting slots in the pavement with a water-cooled diamond blade saw for inductive vehicle detector loops at the traffic signals, we'd shove a 18" piece of the 1/2" backer rod into the slot around the corners to keep the wire from popping out when completing 3 turns of wire; the corners were saw cut with two adjacent 45's to make a easy 90 so as to not stress the wire. Since they weren't wound too tightly the wire would try to pop out as the sun heated up the pavement, especially if the pavement mix was high in asphalt content.
You'd get to a corner with the second turn of wire, pull out the backer rod, push in the wire with a wooden paint stir stick, shove the rod back in, etc. until all 3 turns were in. Then we'd read the loop's continuity and meg it to ground with 500V to insure it was good and no leakage to earth then seal the saw slot with an emulsion-based caulk.
The larger 6 ft. X 50 ft. or 6 ft. X 100 ft. loops were the ones that often needed the backer rod technique; the smaller 6 ft. X 6 ft. loops seldom did.
You'd get to a corner with the second turn of wire, pull out the backer rod, push in the wire with a wooden paint stir stick, shove the rod back in, etc. until all 3 turns were in. Then we'd read the loop's continuity and meg it to ground with 500V to insure it was good and no leakage to earth then seal the saw slot with an emulsion-based caulk.
The larger 6 ft. X 50 ft. or 6 ft. X 100 ft. loops were the ones that often needed the backer rod technique; the smaller 6 ft. X 6 ft. loops seldom did.