Hikvision DS-2CD2T86G2-ISU/SL motion blur and ghosting

bigredfish

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It should still be better than what you show .

Try these settings first

  • Resolution: 3840x2160
  • FPS: 15
  • Bitrate Type: 10240
  • Video Encoding: H.264
  • I Frame Interval: 15
Image Settings:
  • Brightness: 50
  • Contrast: 50
  • Saturation: 50
  • Sharpness: 50
  • Iris Mode: Fixed
  • Anti-Banding: OFF
  • Exposure Time: 1/100
  • Gain: 50
  • Day/Night Switch: Night
  • Smart Supplement Light: OFF
  • Supplement Light Mode: IR Supplement Light
  • Light Brightness Control: Manual
  • IR Light: 100
  • BLC Area: OFF
  • WDR: OFF
  • HLC: OFF
  • White Balance: AWB1
  • Digital Noise Reduction: Normal
  • Noise Reduction Level: 35
  • Defog Mode: OFF
  • Gray Scale: [0-255]
  • Mirror: OFF
  • Video Standard: PAL (50HZ)
 

Spirch

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I do not want or need an IR illuminator. The camera used in the video(s) above is less than 8-10 meters away from the gate! I need to replace these cameras as they are not fit for the job. My fault, I should have done my research before swapping out the old DS-2CD2T55FW’s. As @wittaj points out in a post above, these 8MP cameras and their 1/1.8 sensors are simply not up to the job of night surveillance. I can't even get a usable image when using the camera's default settings and a non-moving subject.
in your previous example you are doing a 2:1 iframe:fps, in your video the blur / ghost seem to resolve-ish itself every 2sec-ish, you have a iframe every two second with your setting

can you change to 1:1 or even lower iframe, so a full frame will happen every second instead of two (a full frame should be 100% clear, this is what a i-frame is)

is the video are they raw from the camera or there is post processing being done to them? (re-encoding can cause these)

i can easily reproduce what you see if i put very high iframe on my camera, each frame after the initial iframe is based on the previous compressed frame, it can go bad pretty quickly (this is my understanding, correct me if i'm wrong)

switch to mjpeg instead of h264/265 to see if it happen

also make sure you change and view the proper stream when you play around, it's easy to change sub stream while looking at main stream and vice versa

this is the DORI for your camera

2.8 mm: D: 89.2 m, O: 35.4 m, R: 17.8 m, I: 8.9 m
4 mm: D: 99.4 m, O: 39.4 m, R: 19.9 m, I: 9.9 m

is this the hikvision bitrate reference? Hikvision Bitrate Chart All Max Bitrates if yes read the notes, at the bottom of each one
 

Spirch

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we love chatgpt, rigth?

In video compression, H.265 (also known as High Efficiency Video Coding, or HEVC) is a widely used standard. It's designed to improve video quality, compression efficiency, and reduce file sizes compared to its predecessor, H.264.
In H.265, like in H.264, there are several types of frames:
  1. I-Frames (Intra-coded frames): These are complete frames that do not depend on any other frame. They are encoded using spatial redundancy within the frame itself. In other words, an I-frame is a fully independent image, like a standalone photograph. I-frames provide random access points, which means you can start decoding the video from any I-frame without needing any information from previous frames. They are relatively large in size compared to P-frames and B-frames because they don't take advantage of temporal redundancy.
  2. P-Frames (Predictive-coded frames): These frames are encoded based on the difference (motion vectors) from a previous I-frame or P-frame. They only store the changes that occur since the last reference frame (which could be an I-frame or a previous P-frame). P-frames are more compressed than I-frames because they don't have to store as much raw pixel data.
  3. B-Frames (Bi-directional frames): These frames are encoded based on the differences from both the preceding and following frames (which can be either I-frames, P-frames, or even other B-frames). B-frames provide the highest compression because they take advantage of both past and future frames. However, they also require more processing power to decode.
Now, let's consider what happens between I-frames:
  1. P-Frames: These rely on the previous I-frame or P-frame to generate their content. They only store the changes that occur since the last reference frame. This means they require less data to represent changes compared to an entire frame.
  2. B-Frames: These frames can use information from both preceding and following frames. They are even more efficient in terms of compression because they can take advantage of motion occurring in both directions. This makes B-frames highly efficient in terms of file size but also more computationally intensive to decode.
So, in a video stream encoded with H.265, a sequence typically starts with an I-frame, followed by a series of P-frames and B-frames. This pattern continues throughout the video. The frequency of I-frames and the ratio of P-frames to B-frames can be adjusted based on encoding settings. Having a good balance between I-frames, P-frames, and B-frames is important for achieving a good trade-off between compression efficiency and video quality.
 

WelshPaul

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It should still be better than what you show .

Try these settings first

  • Resolution: 3840x2160
  • FPS: 15
  • Bitrate Type: 10240
  • Video Encoding: H.264
  • I Frame Interval: 15
Image Settings:
  • Brightness: 50
  • Contrast: 50
  • Saturation: 50
  • Sharpness: 50
  • Iris Mode: Fixed
  • Anti-Banding: OFF
  • Exposure Time: 1/100
  • Gain: 50
  • Day/Night Switch: Night
  • Smart Supplement Light: OFF
  • Supplement Light Mode: IR Supplement Light
  • Light Brightness Control: Manual
  • IR Light: 100
  • BLC Area: OFF
  • WDR: OFF
  • HLC: OFF
  • White Balance: AWB1
  • Digital Noise Reduction: Normal
  • Noise Reduction Level: 35
  • Defog Mode: OFF
  • Gray Scale: [0-255]
  • Mirror: OFF
  • Video Standard: PAL (50HZ)
I had already tried that combination but here is the export from Blue Iris:
View attachment timeline_1.mp4
















Snapshot:
C4.20231031_214700685.2.jpg
 

WelshPaul

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in your previous example you are doing a 2:1 iframe:fps
Yea, because I returned it back to it's default prior to making my initial post here. I could have easily posted another 20 or 30 variations but wanted to keep things simple.

can you change to 1:1 or even lower iframe, so a full frame will happen every second instead of two (a full frame should be 100% clear, this is what a i-frame is)
As mentioned previously, already tried 1:1. I will try entering a lower value than the FPS.

is the video are they raw from the camera or there is post processing being done to them? (re-encoding can cause these)
These are raw exports. The same quality issues are present when recording direct from the cameras browser (Chrome).

switch to mjpeg instead of h264/265 to see if it happen
I will try this!!!

also make sure you change and view the proper stream when you play around, it's easy to change sub stream while looking at main stream and vice versa
I have been using Hikvision Camera's alongside Blue Iris for five years now. Deffinetly not getting the Mainstream and Substreams mixed up.

this is the DORI for your camera

2.8 mm: D: 89.2 m, O: 35.4 m, R: 17.8 m, I: 8.9 m
4 mm: D: 99.4 m, O: 39.4 m, R: 19.9 m, I: 9.9 m

is this the hikvision bitrate reference? Hikvision Bitrate Chart All Max Bitrates if yes read the notes, at the bottom of each one
I have been using the Hikvision Bitrate Chart (and calculator) the past week when testing.
 

bigredfish

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I'd add an external IR illuminator for $20 before I trashed the cam.

BTW in my experience on Dahua cameras, H.265 does NOT improve image quality. Its purpose is to save HD space.
 

Spirch

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Here you go:
none of your video are 4k with high bitrate, they are all 1344x656 with about 2500kb/s with h264

if i take

Honestly I wouldnt be happy with that image no.
I dont know HiK cameras as well as Dahua so cant be sure of some of the settings, but here's a few examples of what I consider good. Not excellent but good.

Generally H.264, CBR, 10,240 bitrate,

4MP 1/1.8" sensor on a Dahua bullet
Dreary, rainy overcast day like you may have more often ;)
30ft from camera to edge of street. 40ft to middle of street
they are what he say

using ffprobe on your video
Stream #0:0[0x1](und): Video: h264 (Constrained Baseline) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 1344x656, 2347 kb/s, 29.84 fps, 30 tbr, 90k tbn (default)

on bigredfish video
Stream #0:0[0x1](und): Video: h264 (High) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuv420p(tv, progressive), 2688x1520, 10985 kb/s, 30 fps, 30 tbr, 1k tbn (default)
 

bigredfish

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^^^^^^^
That would make sense, thats why I asked about if it was the substream. They Are!
 

Spirch

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and this is the info of my video

Duration: 00:05:47.98, start: 75766.121689, bitrate: 6171 kb/s
Stream #0:0[0x1e0]: Video: hevc (Main), yuvj420p(pc), 3840x2160 [SAR 1:1 DAR 16:9], 15 fps, 24 tbr, 90k tbn
 

WelshPaul

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This what the camera is seeing when set to Day mode at night...

Image Settings:
  • Brightness: 50
  • Contrast: 50
  • Saturation: 50
  • Sharpness: 50
  • Iris Mode: Fixed
  • Anti-Banding: OFF
  • Exposure Time: 1/25
  • Gain: 100
  • Day/Night Switch: Day
  • Smart Supplement Light: OFF
  • Supplement Light Mode: IR Supplement Light
  • Light Brightness Control: Auto
  • IR Light: 100
  • BLC Area: OFF
  • WDR: OFF
  • HLC: OFF
  • White Balance: AWB1
  • Digital Noise Reduction: Normal
  • Noise Reduction Level: 50
  • Defog Mode: OFF
  • Gray Scale: [0-255]
  • Mirror: OFF
  • Video Standard: PAL (50HZ)
9fa0563b-dc67-4bd2-b9d7-ec7a99235c6f.jpg

There is a street lamp to the rear of the silver car. I do plan on adding more illumination to the outside of the property but these cameras shouldn't struggle to provide a usuable image of someone standing less than 10 meters from the camera surely? The old ones were spot on! :/
 

bigredfish

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With that slow exposure (1/25), I can make a dark alley seem like daylight with just about any camera, but you will get horrible motion blur.
 

WelshPaul

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With that slow exposure (1/25), I can make a dark alley seem like daylight with just about any camera, but you will get horrible motion blur.
I was just posting with stock default values.

This is at 1/100 exposure:
c290306d-8a8a-4166-bd66-1e221d06bf56.jpg

I'm only looking to record at 1/50 at night. Just enough to grab an image of someone on the path! No room to run, not interested in passing cars in the street.

none of your video are 4k with high bitrate, they are all 1344x656 with about 2500kb/s with h264

if i take



they are what he say

using ffprobe on your video
Stream #0:0[0x1](und): Video: h264 (Constrained Baseline) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 1344x656, 2347 kb/s, 29.84 fps, 30 tbr, 90k tbn (default)

on bigredfish video
Stream #0:0[0x1](und): Video: h264 (High) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuv420p(tv, progressive), 2688x1520, 10985 kb/s, 30 fps, 30 tbr, 1k tbn (default)
WTF... Let me check Blue Iris settings.
 

Spirch

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to compare here mine at 1/60 forced day mode, see my previous post for full settings

1-60.jpg

2-60.jpg
 

WelshPaul

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I set the export to 100% quality but the resolution is only 3208x1520?
 

WelshPaul

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I cannot get Blue Iris to export in 4K. I have deleted the camera and added it again but it always exports with the following:
  • h264 (Constrained Baseline) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 2392x800, 14258 kb/s, 29.89 fps, 30 tbr, 90k tbn (default)

I logged into the camera web base GUI and recorded a clib using live view and got the following result:
  • h264 (Main), yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 3840x2160 [SAR 1:1 DAR 16:9], 15 fps, 25 tbr, 90k tbn

The camera is currently set to H.264, 3840x2160, 16384 kb/s, 15fps. I'm unable to sign up for an account over on the Blue Iris community and post there because I always get "Forbidden. Sender blacklisted." when trying to register no matter what Username/Email account I use.

Edit: Blue Iris is now exporting with the following parameters even though I have made no changes?!?
  • h264 (Constrained Baseline) (avc1 / 0x31637661), yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 3208x1520, 38111 kb/s, 29.76 fps, 30 tbr, 90k tbn (default)
 
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