Home Window Tinting and UV Screens

Joined
Jul 8, 2021
Messages
186
Reaction score
450
Location
Oregon, USA
How many of you have any experience with or use a Whole House Fan? Would really appreciate your input. They are pricey, but in this instance, I do believe you get what you pay for.
My long-winded experience:

In Oregon during the summer we have huge diurnal temperature swings. For example, yesterday it was 82 degrees during
the hottest part of the day, but at the coolest point at night it was 40 degrees. So you would think that a whole house fan
would make perfect sense here - and at times and under specific circumstances it does.
A few years ago I purchased a fan from Centric Air (Centric Air Whole House Fan - Best Whole House Fan | CentricAir).
It works remarkably well, except, as several others have pointed out it draws in a TON of dust and allergens. We live at the
end of the Willamette Valley, the "grass seed capital of the world" and my wife and children have the worst allergy reactions
I've ever seen in humans. So without filtration at all the windows a whole house fan is not usable for us. To get maximum
cooling you have to open (and close during the day) windows in each room, so that means filtration in each of those windows.
I initially tried to use typical furnace type filters (MERV 13) in the window openings, but that did not work well because the fan
is very powerful and unless the filters are fastened securely, the fan will suck them right off. Plus, unless they are perfectly sealed,
the MERV rating essentially becomes zero. I then built wooden frames for the filters and that worked better, but that meant that
every day the windows would have to be closed. It was a chore. I have a cyclonic dust collector with huge expensive filters made by
Wynn (MERV 15 - still not HEPA), so I designed a system with two of those types of filters controlled by a motorized louver that
opened and closed when the fan powered on and off. I placed that system in the crawlspace (our house is on a steep slope, so
part of the crawlspace is enormous - literally 30'x40' 8' feet high on one end and 20' at the down slope end). It was serviceable and
cooled the house significantly, but having only one opening meant that there was a stream of cold air in the stairwells and pockets
of warm air in areas away from the stairwells. That could be mitigated somewhat by circulating air using the main air handler, but was
not optimal. Also, I showed a friend the setup and he immediately asked: "Did you do a radon test?" Yikes! So I did a radon test and
by dumb luck levels were considered acceptably safe by EPA standards. That part of the crawlspace is well ventilated and has a tidy,
well-installed vapor barrier.)
Then starting in the summer of 2018 we experienced extreme forest fires with choking smoke. Visibility at times around our house was
probably on the order of 100 feet. There is no practical way, economically speaking, to filter out smoke. I do not believe the whole house
fan has been powered on since that summer.
 
Joined
Aug 19, 2020
Messages
4,959
Reaction score
20,864
Location
San Antonio, TX
I read somewhere that double pane windows need a certain type of film. Now, I corrected my original statement in the beginning of the thread. We do have double pane windows, but they are over 18 years old and I have been told it really doesn't matter any longer what film I put on them (as far as damage occurring to the windows). If they were new, then that is a different story, so I have read about. Again, all of this is new to me, and I am doing as much homework as I can about it before hand.
 

garycrist

Known around here
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
2,336
Reaction score
6,893
Location
Texas
Stay AWAY from Anderson!!! They try to retire off each sale. One quote from them was $60,000.
We settled for double hung Infinity windows with a French door for $13,000.

When we foamed it was hard for the designer to get him to DOWNSIZE the A/C to 3.5 tons for a 1950 FT. house.
He had a 4 ton and a 2 ton for normal insulation. To amortize the extra cost of the foam, we had to save $7 per month.
Compared to the other homes around here, we paid for the for the foam in way less than 2years.
 

Sparky19053

Getting the hang of it
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
36
Reaction score
60
Andersen is not the problem its the installer that is getting rich. We have a 120" wide x 48" tall bow window. We installed this new in 1984 when we built the home. We used a home window tinting kit that did a great job of reducing the suns rays but the the window looked cloudy when looking out. Wife hated it. I'm getting too old to change this out myself and considering the weight is around 200# I got two prices to replace it. First was $14k the second was $9K. Both prices were for an off brand window using a vinyl window. Turns out Andersen has a replacement sash kit's built to fit using a thicker thermal barrier with low E high proformance glass. Five sash's plus a head and seat kit for $3100.00 delivered. I can handle the sash change out myself.
As for attic insulation I have R54 using a combination of R30 bats with blown-in on top. My highest cooling cost here in PA rarely exceds $150.00 monthly.
 
Joined
Aug 19, 2020
Messages
4,959
Reaction score
20,864
Location
San Antonio, TX
We are on a budget, so large expenditures are kind of out for at least 12 months, meaning we just put a new roof on. That is why we now have ridge vents. Spraying foam isn't an option as again, my walls are all finished, even in the garage (roughed). As for the attic, I don't even want to think about what they would charge to foam my roof. To say my attic is huge just isn't adequate. I have had numerous people tell me I should put a second floor in (have thought about a guest room and build some stairs...idk...for another day long, long from now). So for now, I am kind of stuck with what I have. The current AC I have is a 5 ton. So will have to see what we go with in the spring. Spring...I hope.

As for the winters here, they are generally very mild, minus that freak we had a couple of years ago. And even then, the issue was the loss of electricity, not us getting cold. We have lots of camping equipment, etc. and the kids had a blast. We even had hot water. Pipes didn't freeze where I live, but I think we were lucky. It never got below 57 in my house.

The summers are the problem. Next week, every day is suppose to hit at least 103, and throw in the humidity. And it's not even July or August yet. That is why my electric bill is so stupid. Its all in the AC. I am sure once I get a new, efficient one, it will go down drastically. But until then, I need to find ways of lowering the $$$$.

I have received some great advice, and thank you very, very much! Hope I have helped a bit as well.
 

Jim I.

Getting comfortable
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
227
Reaction score
610
Location
Richmond, Texas
I was considering adding a solar powered attic fan to my roof, but am unsure if I would benefit from it. My home is one story, 3200 sq ft, with no gables. It was built in 2019 and has a radiant barrier on the roof decking, and also soffit and ridge vents. The house is already pretty energy efficient, but the attic does get very hot. A hole would need to be cut in the roof to add the fan since I don't have any gables. Not sure if this would be a worthwhile project or not. I have a very large attic so I would probably need at least two of them to do any good.
 

Sybertiger

Known around here
Joined
Jun 30, 2018
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
13,632
Location
Orlando
The south side of my house used to get blasted all day long by the sun. I ended up putting silver reflective film on the windows to help the situation. Eventually I planted three small live oaks on that side of the house and over the years they have grown to shade the entire south side including the roof. My electric bill kept dropping a little bit every year as the trees got bigger. Of course trees bring other problems so there are always pros and cons. Overall it's pretty nice on that side of the house with mostly shade but some filtered light coming in which is enough to keep the St. Augustine grass nice and lush. I used to dread walking down that side of the house in the summer because of the heat blast. Now it's a nice stroll through underneath a beautiful canopy.
 
Last edited:

David L

IPCT Contributor
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Messages
8,103
Reaction score
21,215
Location
USA
Radiant Barrier has been a good saver for us. It is amazing how much cooler our attics have been. TechShield is for new houses, thinking 50% protection. The best is the stabled barrier to the rafters. Our first house we had the spray where they sprayed the roof decking and even the rafters with the silver/aluminum spray. The guy went through several wand spray bits, the aluminum bits tears them up. (If you go this route check the mixture to make sure they are not just spraying silver paint) It was amazing the difference. Our attic felt like our garage temp. Our attic fan hardly every came on and it was set to 90 degrees. Being close to Houston that was great during the summer. Our present house I had the stabled barrier installed. The gap between the rafters allows the heat to rise to the top and out our solar attic fans, which also hardly come on. Only issue is any existing wiring stapled to rafters. They left most of it and stabled the barrier around it. Not a problem unless I need to get to the wiring...

Our two attic solar fans are 20 watts each, (Or maybe it was 20 watts total for the two, can't remember :)) I do remember doing the math after the install and found with the high cost of the fans, I don't think I would ever recover the cost of savings in my lifetime, haha. Think they were close to $400 each I paid. But with all the "Green" push now adays, I am sure a young couple would think it is a great when they buy our house. Funny but the fans only use the solar when the sun is out, on cloudy days they use our power grid. But again they are not On much and they are very quiet...I got sold/took during our roof replacement :)

You can have a company come out and do a thermal gun test showing your hot spots. Doors/Windows/Ceilings/etc. When done for us they went into the attic and sealed or added insulation. Seeing those heat spots before and after gave me peace of mind. FYI they will do it for free and quote their work if you wanted to do it yourself.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
7,445
Reaction score
26,132
Location
Spring, Texas
Back in the late 1980's I had a house in NOLA that was built in the 1920's. Absolutely no insulation. It had a whole house fan installed in the attic but the motor had been pulled out. When I bought it I got a new motor and fabricated window screens. The fan blades were 5 feet in diameter. Thing was huge. At that time, the only attic access was through the fan louvers in the ceiling. The unit could swing away for access. I installed a pulldown stair in the hallway.

When that fan came on the blast of hot air at the front porch, which is where the vents were (see the photo), would drive off a solicitor no problem. It really did cool off the whole house as long as each room had a window open.

But there were drawbacks, like dust and crap coming in from outside. Also bugs, leaves and lizards getting stuck to the outside of the window screens when the fan was running. Sometimes litter from the street also. If it got cold in the winter, the cold air came down from the louvers. Also the heat just went out them.

But the worst was one time I had a bunch of papers I was working on sitting on the kitchen table, which was right under the fan louvers. I was in the living room and my daughter decided to flip on the fan. Those papers got sucked up through the louvers and sliced up quite a bit and were strewn all over the attic.

scn526.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
7,445
Reaction score
26,132
Location
Spring, Texas
^^^ Beautiful home!
It was. My wife and I did a lot of renovation to that place before I was transferred to Houston in 1988. Total rewire, installed central AC/heat, replaced rotten structural timbers, put up the fence and total backyard makeover with paved patio and planter boxes. Redid the kitchen and paint all inside. The basement was more or less unfinished except for the very front where a tavern had been years ago. The bar was still in place. Made a laundry room in the basement and had my workshop there.
 

IReallyLikePizza2

Known around here
Joined
May 14, 2019
Messages
1,852
Reaction score
4,443
Location
Houston
Good thread! I'll have to follow and read all the replies

I have a House in Houston with poor air sealing and not much insulation. I will say that adding solar panels (Actual solar panels that make power, not solar screens) cut the temp in the attic a lot. I guess another layer of something on the roof reflecting heat is why

The other thing that made a MASSIVE difference is getting mini split AC's. They use so little power its crazy, and they cool so well. I have mine set to 70 most days in my office and its usually around 68 in there, so lower than the setpoint. It also means I have redundant AC's
 

garycrist

Known around here
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
2,336
Reaction score
6,893
Location
Texas
When I was foaming houses, I was amazed on how quiet everything was, even
without windows! Even without A/C it was tolerable.

The windows and A/C came next. Sheet-rockers were in heaven. I came in one
day the A/C was running it's heart out with the vapor line almost frozen to the compressor!

The inside temp was 50 F. , also, the lowest the thermostat went. That was Aug 2002!

One thing I always did, when I did a residential was, to foam the bath tub and shower stall.
The tubs will hold hot water longer, seal everything up and stops that thundering sound
heard all over the house from the tub.;)

If I did it all over, this time I would sheet rock one side of every common wall.
Whole house needs some fresh air intake of some kind! There is a lot of heat loss
and the fresh air if not moved to room temperature, is down right uncomfortable.
A heat exchanger in the attic would help and be out of the way. The A/c will last
longer as it is in an airconditioned space.
.
Things have changed since I did all this stuff back in 2002.
 

looney2ns

IPCT Contributor
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Messages
15,655
Reaction score
22,928
Location
Evansville, In. USA
Good thread! I'll have to follow and read all the replies

I have a House in Houston with poor air sealing and not much insulation. I will say that adding solar panels (Actual solar panels that make power, not solar screens) cut the temp in the attic a lot. I guess another layer of something on the roof reflecting heat is why

The other thing that made a MASSIVE difference is getting mini split AC's. They use so little power its crazy, and they cool so well. I have mine set to 70 most days in my office and its usually around 68 in there, so lower than the setpoint. It also means I have redundant AC's
What brand Mini Splits did you have put in?
Some sealing and insulation can go a loooongggg way.
 

IReallyLikePizza2

Known around here
Joined
May 14, 2019
Messages
1,852
Reaction score
4,443
Location
Houston
What brand Mini Splits did you have put in?
Some sealing and insulation can go a loooongggg way.
I have a Dual Zone Daikin unit with 2 x 9000BTU indoor units and 1 x 18000 BTU outdoor unit. Outdoor unit build quality is excellent but the indoor unit quality is lacking, its the 17 series and I got it "Professionally" installed. Performance is fantastic though

Then I have a self installed 33 SEER Fujitsu unit which is much better quality, and was actually free because it was damaged in shipping. Would go for the Fujitsu over the Daikin, but its a higher end model so not apples to apples

I have a 4 Ton AC, but now don't really use it, as the 3 x 9000 BTU units can cool the important parts of the home very well, and with all 3 on, it cools the rest good enough
 
Top