How to ideally seal a cable hole in a 5" PVC camera mounting box?

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The information on the ipcamtalk forums have been invaluable to me when selecting my EmpireTech cameras and planning out my installation. I now have all the outdoor PVC conduit and Ethernet cabling installed. That leaves me with one burning question and problem to resolve...

What I've chosen to do is use five 5x5" PVC plastic boxes to mount my cameras (as shown in the attached image). Let me make reference to the attached image which I have borrowed from this posting:

DIY Junction Box Mount for HIK Dome
DIY Junction Box Mount for HIK Dome

Note: I'm interested in the hole in the lid and not the holes in the box itself. For my own purchased 5x5" boxes there are no holes in the box itself. I'll be drilling my own single hole in the lid for the RJ45 connector and cable to pass through.

Here's my simple but troubling question: what "device" can I use to seal up that hole in the box where the camera's cable has run through it?

I've done an hour or two of research but come up empty handed when it comes to a "water tight bushing", in terms of what I actually need.

Here's the requirements:

- It needs to fit that large hole + be able to offer a water tight connection around the Ethernet cable

- I'd like it to be replaceable in the future, if and when I will have to swap out the camera. Hence, no big globs of silicon or other caulking.

- The camera's housing is going to sit near to, or on top of, that hole so I cannot use one of those tall twist-fit PVC-box connectors for cabling.

- I am aware of HVAC putty compounds but in my experience they tend to dry out and lift from the hole or surface.

I thought I'd reach out to the community to see if anyone has any ideas. Thanks in advance for your input.
 

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TonyR

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The lid appears to be PVC but the box appears to be diecast metal. Anyway, these match your box and are at Lowes, Home Depot, Menard's, etc. When I use these I've also wrapped the male threads with 2 layers of white Teflon plumbing tape (yellow OK too) ==>> Cord grip Conduit Fittings

die-cast-cord-grip.jpg

Also, they make threaded blank hole covers as well ==>> Gray Metal Electrical Box Knockout Plug

metal-elect-box-hole-plugs.jpg
 
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Alaska Country

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On this end use the Cantex 4x4x2 plastic junction box (Lowes/Home Depot - note for the same box Lowes is about $1.50 less costly than HD - however prices may vary by location) for mounting Dahua cameras.

Used a NM/SE clamp connector with a split piece of 1/4 inch ID vinyl tubing to protect the CAT-5/6 cable for the cable entrance. Plus a dab of silicon grease on the RJ-45 connector when making the final connection to the camera.

Cantex-Plastic-Box.jpg

There a drain hole to allow any accumulated water to be removed from the box. Plus, by not sealing the box tight one does not run into the issue of heating and cooling and drawing in moisture laden air as temperatures change causing a generated vacuum within the sealed enclosure.

For boxes with threaded holes for plug use, have used the thicker yellow Teflon tape with two wraps. When the plugs and inserted and tightened the sharp edges nicely trim off any excess Teflon tape.

However, if there is no intention of ever removing a plug then just use clear silicon caulk to glue in place. i.e. usually use the smaller tube of bathtub clear silicon.
 

TonyR

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If the OP is using a diecast metal box as pictured I highly recommend sealing the box completely, not allowing it to have loose fittings and covers to allow atmosphere in to supposedly allow water to overcome the surface tension (viscosity) that water has that would prevent it from draining out a small hole. You could possibly wind up with a box full of mushy, white aluminum oxide.

A PVC box may be a different story, I don't know....because I thoroughly seal any and all outdoor boxes regardless of type and haven't had ANY issues. The last few years I use mostly PVC when possible.

I've had greater success by keeping the enclosure sealed as completely as possible, no "drain holes" and whenever possible have conduits or cables entering only at bottom (drip loop in cable) and then waterproofing the pigtail entrance into the camera AND the pigtail-to-CAT cable connection inside the junction box as described here.
 
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CanCuba

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If the OP is using a diecast metal box as pictured I highly recommend sealing the box completely, not allowing it to have loose fittings and covers to allow atmosphere in to supposedly allow water to overcome the surface tension (viscosity) that water has that would prevent it from draining out a small hole. You could possibly wind up with a box full of mushy, white aluminum oxide.

A PVC box may be a different story, I don't know....because I thoroughly seal any and all outdoor boxes regardless of type and haven't had ANY issues. The last few years I use mostly PVC when possible.

I've had greater success by keeping the enclosure sealed as completely as possible, no "drain holes" and whenever possible have conduits or cables entering only at bottom (drip loop in cable) and then waterproofing the pigtail entrance into the camera AND the pigtail-to-CAT cable connection inside the junction box as described here.
On a FB group for electric issues, I recently saw a thread where many electricians suggest making a drain hole in the box if one isn't present. If the box is tightly sealed, external water won't get in but some expressed a concern about condensation building up over time inside the box.

Others point out that nothing is perfect and the seal on a box may fail over time. In this scenario, a drain hole would also be useful.
 

TonyR

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Others point out that nothing is perfect and the seal on a box may fail over time. In this scenario, a drain hole would also be useful.
Yes, the insects and dirt daubers here where I live will love it. :cool:

Folks are certainly free to do what they want to. That said, if the box is fairly tight, not perfectly sealed but tight....a drain hole at the bottom will have to be probably larger than 1/4" to overcome the surface tension of the water if no positive pressure exists within the box that would overcome the atmosphere being applied to the hole from the OUTSIDE of the box.

Certainly, I'm all about people using what works, what makes them happy and what cranks their tractor. I really only know what works for me and what I've experienced first hand. Probably 90% of the conduits, boxes and cabinets I installed and serviced for over 31 years were outdoors and I got to see a lot of methods used and results in that time frame so my recommendations aren't based on something I read or something someone told to me. But as usual, YMMV.
 

TonyR

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On a FB group for electric issues, I recently saw a thread where many electricians suggest making a drain hole in the box if one isn't present. If the box is tightly sealed, external water won't get in but some expressed a concern about condensation building up over time inside the box.
More often than not, there are conduits that go underground or outdoors in the free air that enter the box and that's where the moisture comes from, not necessarily entering a lid or a fitting. They seal the outside of the box but not the conduit entrances. I've seen that countless times.
 

TonyR

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Correct me if I am wrong (or just ignore me), but I think he is asking about the hole on the top where the cam's pigtail enters:

View attachment 177705
No, I think you're correct, I saw that as well...but because there were unplugged holes and likely conduit or cable to enter into the metal box I kept on with my bad self....:highfive:
 

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Duct seal is a good option. Silicone caulk could work, but could be fun if you need to remove it in the future.

Put some dielectric grease in the ethernet socket and a silica gel packet in the junction box.
 

TonyR

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Duct seal is a good option.
I totally agree but the OP said "... am aware of HVAC putty compounds but in my experience they tend to dry out and lift from the hole or surface", so I didn't mention it.

I've found if if start with a plug of duct seal that I've rolled to make a cylinder, push 1/2 thru the hole then flatten both sides a bit (not SUPER flat), it seals pretty darn good. I'm a a big fan of duct seal, especially for keeping dirt daubers out.
 

tangent

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I totally agree but the OP said "... am aware of HVAC putty compounds but in my experience they tend to dry out and lift from the hole or surface", so I didn't mention it.
They also said no silicone. For what the posted a picture of silicone or duct deal seem like the most obvious / effective options. Beyond that, what do we have? Flexseal tape and silicone grease? Sugru with optional teflon tape? Peel and stick self sealing window flashing? All of those are probably worse options.

Might be easier to silicone the base of the camera to the cover and not worry about the hole. Then when the time comes to remove, you can use a putty knife or blade to separate and probably not have to worry too much about damaging the cable.
 

TonyR

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They also said no silicone. For what the posted a picture of silicone or duct deal seem like the most obvious / effective options. Beyond that, what do we have? Flexseal tape and silicone grease? Sugru with optional teflon tape? Peel and stick self sealing window flashing? All of those are probably worse options.

Might be easier to silicone the base of the camera to the cover and not worry about the hole. Then when the time comes to remove, you can use a putty knife or blade to separate and probably not have to worry too much about damaging the cable.
Very good points. Here's how I see this thread, as I see many.....

The OP is a noob and it's his first post. We can offer our best suggestions and IMO, those are the ones based on personal experiences and those that are as close as possible to satisfying the preferences of the member. In some cases, if not many, the member sees things differently after being made aware of options, methods and techniques not previously known to them and changes his/her thinking.

This back and forth dialog of wants, dislikes and preferences produces suitable and obtainable results for the OP.....MOST of the time. And from time to time even this old fart learns something. :cool:
 

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Correct me if I am wrong (or just ignore me), but I think he is asking about the hole on the top where the cam's pigtail enters:

View attachment 177705
If the OP is concerned about water seepage then just caulk around the camera base where it meets the plate and call it a day. If the camera has a waterproof rating then I don't get all the obsession worrying about using sealants. :idk:
 

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On a FB group for electric issues, I recently saw a thread where many electricians suggest making a drain hole in the box if one isn't present. If the box is tightly sealed, external water won't get in but some expressed a concern about condensation building up over time inside the box.

Others point out that nothing is perfect and the seal on a box may fail over time. In this scenario, a drain hole would also be useful.
Mounting boxes designed for cameras have a drain hole built in....these are the boxes that I use.
 

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TonyR

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If the OP is concerned about water seepage then just caulk around the camera base where it meets the plate and call it a day. If the camera has a waterproof rating then I don't get all the obsession worrying about using sealants. :idk:
In a nutshell, because many so-called "waterproof" claims of connectors, cameras and junction boxes are bullshit and sealants in themselves are not necessarily the ultimate solution. :cool:
 
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