- Oct 13, 2015
- 13
- 1
Improving Nigh Vision Quality
- Thread starter Yostie
- Start date
djangel
Pulling my weight
- Aug 30, 2014
- 335
- 148
The first couple of illuminators I purchased were from Wrightwood Surveillance based on this review. They are decent, but I wanted something better for the front of my house, so I started looking at other options. I later found out the ones I purchased from Wrightwood were Scene IRs and found them in this AliExpress store. Unfortunately their shipping cost is high, so I decided to purchase two to even out the buy. I originally paid around $120 for the two Tri-Illuminators from Wrightwood, so two better ones from Aliexpress came out to around $136 with DHL shipping. Here are some pics and a link to a different thread where I posted some photos.
https://www.ipcamtalk.com/showthrea...randed-dome-deal?p=53400&viewfull=1#post53400
*Edit* When I purchased the IRs from AliExpress, I was able to specify the angle and power connection I wanted based on the IR, so my main IR (front) is a G06D-120-A-IR, 120 angle, 40m 850nm with AC110-220V and the second one (black IR mounted inside gazebo) is a GA6-90-C-IR, 90 angle, 40m 850nm with DC12V (only option).
https://www.ipcamtalk.com/showthrea...randed-dome-deal?p=53400&viewfull=1#post53400
*Edit* When I purchased the IRs from AliExpress, I was able to specify the angle and power connection I wanted based on the IR, so my main IR (front) is a G06D-120-A-IR, 120 angle, 40m 850nm with AC110-220V and the second one (black IR mounted inside gazebo) is a GA6-90-C-IR, 90 angle, 40m 850nm with DC12V (only option).
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- Oct 13, 2015
- 13
- 1
SyconsciousAu, I'm keen to get some from scene IR, but the shipping is a bit steep. Now to see if there is anyone in Aus, who is interested in combining a order.
Yostie,
One of the big advantage of a PC based system is simple access to features to enhance jpg or video playback. With Intel HD graphics, you can create many display profiles, example is back your car into driveway at night and observe license #, then adjust monitor display settings (not camera, this assumes you've optimized illumination and camera settings already) so that you can read it the best you can, then you can save this profile (call it "Night Time LicensePlate" for easy loading later. It won't change original data, and you can easily go back to default settings.
One of the big advantage of a PC based system is simple access to features to enhance jpg or video playback. With Intel HD graphics, you can create many display profiles, example is back your car into driveway at night and observe license #, then adjust monitor display settings (not camera, this assumes you've optimized illumination and camera settings already) so that you can read it the best you can, then you can save this profile (call it "Night Time LicensePlate" for easy loading later. It won't change original data, and you can easily go back to default settings.
- Oct 13, 2015
- 13
- 1
Marty,
My PC is used solely for gaming, and would use up to much power to leave on all the time. I am using a Synology NAS to record my footage through Surveillance Center; however this is not ideal, as I have to use a older model camera profile, which means I am restricted to 1920x1080. My NAS stays on 24/7 so it is no extra cost to me, to have it running. I only have 1 camera t the moment, so my NAS seems capable of taking care of it. I would like to record direct to disk with my NAS, but no matter if I use SAMBA or NFS shares, the camera will format the drive, but it goes offline straight away.
My PC is used solely for gaming, and would use up to much power to leave on all the time. I am using a Synology NAS to record my footage through Surveillance Center; however this is not ideal, as I have to use a older model camera profile, which means I am restricted to 1920x1080. My NAS stays on 24/7 so it is no extra cost to me, to have it running. I only have 1 camera t the moment, so my NAS seems capable of taking care of it. I would like to record direct to disk with my NAS, but no matter if I use SAMBA or NFS shares, the camera will format the drive, but it goes offline straight away.
Interesting thread, lots of good info.
TLDNR: Decent quality separate illuminators are the way to go! Consider output power (strong enough but not too strong), beam angle, placement, and you'll be laughing.
I've experimented (and continue to) with various ways of getting the best night vision for a while, and agree with most of what's been said here.
Agreed too that the big one in your situation is to remove the branches.
At the risk of further repeating what's already been said...:
I've tried many cheap illumniators (via eBay etc) over the years, and they were all worth what I paid for them, not a great deal. They tend to have a central intense hotspot of light, and average wider-angle coverage. And they didn't last very long. About the only use I have for them now is as a source of IR light to bounce off a ceiling in order to get fairly uniform coverage of a small to medium size room. Not relevant in your situation...
Quite a few years ago now I decided to get some decent lights for some specific outdoor locations. I ended up ordering a number of illuminators direct from ParagonTech (the PI-1000 series http://www.ewhaglobal.com/product/ir-illuminators/pi-series/). I got a range of different beam angles from 15° to 120°, some 940nm, others 850nm. I was so impressed a couple of years later I got more.
This was in the days when the Aussie dollar was worth something, and shipping wasn't so exorbitant (they're pretty heavy). At the time it was also more difficult to find quality IR lights. Pretty much every consumer level IR light consisted of clusters of low power, low quality LEDs as above. There's more choice out there now.
Anyway, some observations. In the vast majority of installs, if possible, using separate IR lighting instead of the camera's built in option is way preferable. When done well (which isn't always easy), the night time views can be many times better than with built-in IR alone.
A separate light can be mounted to illuminate the areas most important to you, you're not stuck with it pointing only where the camera points or with the beam angle built into the camera. The moths, spiders and other pesky critters that make a mockery out of night time picture motion detection are attracted to the light and leave the camera blissfully alone. Because the angle of the light is not in line with the lens of the camera other objects that end up in front of the camera also don't reflect back as much light and trip motion detection (heavy rain being a big one, and just general flying insects).
As others have said, there are a number of important factors to consider when selecting a light and choosing where to mount it.
Ideally the beam angle will match the camera's so you get comprehensive coverage. But you might also choose (as I have in one location) to use more than one light to get maximum coverage. One of my cameras looks down a driveway. It's a pretty wide-angle camera (4mm HikV Bullet), but the illuminator is 15° - the built in IRs illuminate up close, the separate one reaches out down the driveway and into the street (so I still have a problem with rain setting of motion detection, but most of the insects seem to prefer the brighter light thankfully). In another situation I have a 120° light providing illumination for 3 cameras, all with their own IR turned off.
One common advantage of course is in the situation you have now with the tree. If the tree can't be cut back, the light can be positioned to avoid the tree entirely. I have the same issues with trees, and cars parked in front of cameras which would make the built-in IRs unusable.
If you mount a light right next to a camera, you may reduce the advantage of keeping the flying, web-building critters out of view. If you mount it a long way from the camera, depending on the scene you're lighting, you may create large shaded areas in your camera view.
Clearly you want the light to be powerful enough to cover the area you want to watch with minimal noise etc in the image. However, keep in mind that it's also very possible to have too much IR light. A powerful light might be great at reaching out and seeing medium and long distance objects, but when someone approaches the camera they may well just appear as a totally over-saturated bright white lump, completely unrecognisable. The extent to which this is a problem will vary from camera to camera, some compensate much better than others. My personal preference for a situation where I want to be able to identify faces (and number plates for that matter) is to have plenty of light and to set things such as WDR (which may help or hinder depending on the camera), Gain etc low or off. It means the general scene can be quite dark, but when someone/thing enters the area they are clearly visible, and in good, recognisable detail.
BTW, in many cameras I've found WDR causes ghosting of moving objects. Again, varies from one camera to another.
If you don't want to have too many bright red glowing lights visible at night, consider 940nm. Even in a powerful light it's barely visible as a dark purple glow when close to the light. But keep in mind that you'll need significantly more power/output with 940nm to cover the same area as a less powerful 850nm light. Of course having some obvious IR lights, and therefore cameras, is generally a good thing isn't it.
I wish I could have separate lighting for all of my cams. There are a couple in particular, under the eves of the house (Hik turrets at the moment), that have great views, and their built-in IR works very well, but the damn spiders and flying fool insects mess with motion detection too much. Lots of surface insect spray helps with the spiders, but not the flyers or course. There's a point though where adding heaps of separate devices (cams, lights, PIR (which I have to experiment with too)) starts to make the place look like a maximum security jail. :rolleyes-new:
TLDNR: Decent quality separate illuminators are the way to go! Consider output power (strong enough but not too strong), beam angle, placement, and you'll be laughing.
I've experimented (and continue to) with various ways of getting the best night vision for a while, and agree with most of what's been said here.
Agreed too that the big one in your situation is to remove the branches.
At the risk of further repeating what's already been said...:
I've tried many cheap illumniators (via eBay etc) over the years, and they were all worth what I paid for them, not a great deal. They tend to have a central intense hotspot of light, and average wider-angle coverage. And they didn't last very long. About the only use I have for them now is as a source of IR light to bounce off a ceiling in order to get fairly uniform coverage of a small to medium size room. Not relevant in your situation...
Quite a few years ago now I decided to get some decent lights for some specific outdoor locations. I ended up ordering a number of illuminators direct from ParagonTech (the PI-1000 series http://www.ewhaglobal.com/product/ir-illuminators/pi-series/). I got a range of different beam angles from 15° to 120°, some 940nm, others 850nm. I was so impressed a couple of years later I got more.
This was in the days when the Aussie dollar was worth something, and shipping wasn't so exorbitant (they're pretty heavy). At the time it was also more difficult to find quality IR lights. Pretty much every consumer level IR light consisted of clusters of low power, low quality LEDs as above. There's more choice out there now.
Anyway, some observations. In the vast majority of installs, if possible, using separate IR lighting instead of the camera's built in option is way preferable. When done well (which isn't always easy), the night time views can be many times better than with built-in IR alone.
A separate light can be mounted to illuminate the areas most important to you, you're not stuck with it pointing only where the camera points or with the beam angle built into the camera. The moths, spiders and other pesky critters that make a mockery out of night time picture motion detection are attracted to the light and leave the camera blissfully alone. Because the angle of the light is not in line with the lens of the camera other objects that end up in front of the camera also don't reflect back as much light and trip motion detection (heavy rain being a big one, and just general flying insects).
As others have said, there are a number of important factors to consider when selecting a light and choosing where to mount it.
Ideally the beam angle will match the camera's so you get comprehensive coverage. But you might also choose (as I have in one location) to use more than one light to get maximum coverage. One of my cameras looks down a driveway. It's a pretty wide-angle camera (4mm HikV Bullet), but the illuminator is 15° - the built in IRs illuminate up close, the separate one reaches out down the driveway and into the street (so I still have a problem with rain setting of motion detection, but most of the insects seem to prefer the brighter light thankfully). In another situation I have a 120° light providing illumination for 3 cameras, all with their own IR turned off.
One common advantage of course is in the situation you have now with the tree. If the tree can't be cut back, the light can be positioned to avoid the tree entirely. I have the same issues with trees, and cars parked in front of cameras which would make the built-in IRs unusable.
If you mount a light right next to a camera, you may reduce the advantage of keeping the flying, web-building critters out of view. If you mount it a long way from the camera, depending on the scene you're lighting, you may create large shaded areas in your camera view.
Clearly you want the light to be powerful enough to cover the area you want to watch with minimal noise etc in the image. However, keep in mind that it's also very possible to have too much IR light. A powerful light might be great at reaching out and seeing medium and long distance objects, but when someone approaches the camera they may well just appear as a totally over-saturated bright white lump, completely unrecognisable. The extent to which this is a problem will vary from camera to camera, some compensate much better than others. My personal preference for a situation where I want to be able to identify faces (and number plates for that matter) is to have plenty of light and to set things such as WDR (which may help or hinder depending on the camera), Gain etc low or off. It means the general scene can be quite dark, but when someone/thing enters the area they are clearly visible, and in good, recognisable detail.
BTW, in many cameras I've found WDR causes ghosting of moving objects. Again, varies from one camera to another.
If you don't want to have too many bright red glowing lights visible at night, consider 940nm. Even in a powerful light it's barely visible as a dark purple glow when close to the light. But keep in mind that you'll need significantly more power/output with 940nm to cover the same area as a less powerful 850nm light. Of course having some obvious IR lights, and therefore cameras, is generally a good thing isn't it.
I wish I could have separate lighting for all of my cams. There are a couple in particular, under the eves of the house (Hik turrets at the moment), that have great views, and their built-in IR works very well, but the damn spiders and flying fool insects mess with motion detection too much. Lots of surface insect spray helps with the spiders, but not the flyers or course. There's a point though where adding heaps of separate devices (cams, lights, PIR (which I have to experiment with too)) starts to make the place look like a maximum security jail. :rolleyes-new:
alastairstevenson
Staff member
Depending on the firmware version, there is a maximum volume size that the camera will work with, it was around 200GB on firmware 5.2.0
You should be able to impose a user space quota (SMB/CIFS), or may be able to provide a dedicated share of defined size, as can be done on the QNAP NAS with the flexible volume management.
And in the absence of the flexible volume management, there was a neat way someone handled this on a less-capable NAS by creating a large empty file of a defined size (can be done with dd for example), formatting the file as ext3, and mounting it to be offered as a share.
Bradmph
Pulling my weight
One thing I would like to mention about bug issues making a camera a home is the warmth a camera puts out. I think the spiders are more likely to use the camera for a heating element instead of light, but they also use the light source for incoming flying objects. They seem to be more intelligent about making a home where food can happen, like a dumb moth banging it's face into the lens when IR is on.
I noticed almost immediately after mounting a camera under an eve that does not use IR, that a spider showed up in less then a day. I only happen to find the little 8 legged thing when I turned on IR for a test and his web reflected into the lens, (busted). So, spiders luv the warmth and it is just a bonus for them when IR is in use also.
We also have these hornets (yellow jackets) that make mud homes in the eves and this I think will be my main problem. The bullet cams look like a premade hornet condo and will probably keep me busy with inspections. I wonder if a big rubber spider parked close by the camera could possibly effect insect home making. Sort of like one of them fake Owl statues to keep pigeons and stuff from congregating. This could get interesting, I may try this.
One other idea would be to put a pet flea collar around the camera base if bugs get possessive. If they kill fleas and tic, they must piss off another species of insect too.
Gawd, what I get myself into by installing security cameras. I remember the good ole days when a loaded 44 was your security system. (sigh)
I noticed almost immediately after mounting a camera under an eve that does not use IR, that a spider showed up in less then a day. I only happen to find the little 8 legged thing when I turned on IR for a test and his web reflected into the lens, (busted). So, spiders luv the warmth and it is just a bonus for them when IR is in use also.
We also have these hornets (yellow jackets) that make mud homes in the eves and this I think will be my main problem. The bullet cams look like a premade hornet condo and will probably keep me busy with inspections. I wonder if a big rubber spider parked close by the camera could possibly effect insect home making. Sort of like one of them fake Owl statues to keep pigeons and stuff from congregating. This could get interesting, I may try this.
One other idea would be to put a pet flea collar around the camera base if bugs get possessive. If they kill fleas and tic, they must piss off another species of insect too.
Gawd, what I get myself into by installing security cameras. I remember the good ole days when a loaded 44 was your security system. (sigh)