I'm thinking about installing a Loryta SD1A404XB-GNR for general awareness in my house. I want to install it under the eaves on a soffit. I'd like to install it without using a ladder. Has anyone tried doing this and could offer some tips? I have attic access, of course. I've installed pendant mounts from the attic by hoisting it up via a string and screwing it into a bracket in the attic.
Install on eaves from attic
- Thread starter bethzur
- Start date
They are vinyl soffit material. It's easy to drill through, but I won't have outside access without an enormous ladder. I was thinking of hoisting the camera up and somehow attaching it. Maybe with a bracket plate and a pipe flange into a piece of wood for stability.
What kind of height are we talking to access with a ladder?
I don't like ladders either, I draw the line at about 20-22 feet up to feel comfortable.
I don't like ladders either, I draw the line at about 20-22 feet up to feel comfortable.
I had a contractor put one in the front and he needed a 35' ladder. This in the back is on a deck. The eaves are at least 2' deep so there's plenty of space in the attic. There's a hot tub on the deck that complicates ladder placement.
DanDenver
Getting comfortable
I agree with not wanting to be on tall ladders. Can you access the desired location at least once via ladder? If so, you could install a quick disconnect style mount. Meaning you could, after the install of the quick disconnect base to the wall below the eve, use a long pole to set the camera into location. This approach would not work under an eve, only a wall so may not work well for you.
Here is a quick disconnect 'V' style mount. Just disable the locking mechanism, then you can lift the camera in and out using a long pole at will:
woodencamera.com
Here is a quick disconnect 'V' style mount. Just disable the locking mechanism, then you can lift the camera in and out using a long pole at will:
V-Lock Base Station and Wedge Kit (ARRI Accessory Mount 3/8-16)
Quick release set based on the standard V-Lock or V-Dock as it is sometimes referred. The Base Station portion can bolt into a 1/4-20 or 3/8-16 hole using the included screws. Set screw can also be installed to prevent twisting.
woodencamera.com
NickTheGreat
Pulling my weight
I don't have that exact camera, but I don't see how you could easily put the mounting screws in from the top. Unless you could somehow reach your whole hand/arm out a medium sized hole. And maybe your arm could fit out a j-box size hole? I don't think i'd like that big of a hole in my soffit, but maybe you could install an old-construction box afterwards from the top.
I had a situation where I was going to put a camera on my second story eave in the front of my house, but read enough to convince me that going lower was better. So I put it under first story eave. Only 12 ft off the ground instead of 30 ft.
I had a situation where I was going to put a camera on my second story eave in the front of my house, but read enough to convince me that going lower was better. So I put it under first story eave. Only 12 ft off the ground instead of 30 ft.
Gargoile
Getting comfortable
If you do not want to use a ladder you can make a template of the mounting holes of the base and then install threaded studs in the camera base. Then drill your template from inside the attic ( 4 holes for the mounting studs and one center hole for the camera cables). After that cable a sturdy pull line to the camera and pull it up into the holes you have drilled and then install the bolts onto the threaded studs in the base.
DanDenver
Getting comfortable
And here is a break away Cat5 connection. Don't know how you would connect it in the first place, but once done and you are lowering the camera via a long pole, it would just "let go" and disconnect:
www.rosenberger.com
Magnetic RJ45
Rosenberger’s Magnetic RJ45 adapter provides data and power from a single connection, ideal where connections and disconnections are frequent or for when Power over Ethernet (PoE+) is required.
www.rosenberger.com
That is what I was thinking. Seems like it could work. I will need a fairly large hole to get the cables from the camera thought, so maybe my pipe flange idea would be a easier since it's just one thing to plan for. Two 3/4" black iron flanges and a 3/4" pipe nipple. Then I'd just have to get the nipple through a single hole.
I hate drilling into stucco since every hole could be a future problem. I'll likely have to do this on the other side of my house, but that should be easier to do. Where this is going, the deck has a fence around it for privacy so it would have to be pretty high to see over the fence. I don't want to look at the deck for the most part.
My house has an odd foot-print with lots of setbacks that make camera positioning difficult. The driveway camera is on a lower set of eaves about 9' off the ground and that works very well. I have front door with some large eaves-type material above it, but I need to pry it open to see what's above it. It's not attic since it's much too low.
I use attic access and a ladder to install turret cams in the soffit very easily. I also use these toggle bolts and hold the cam up and use a drill bit small enough to go through the mounting hole and put a hole in the soffit. Then reach through another part of the soffit and thread the toggle on. Or you can use a template to drill all the holes big enough to fit the entire toggle through so it opens up on the inside and tighten it down.
Griswalduk
Known around here
If you have access from the attic and the soffit is wide enough you could fit an access panel. The camera could be mounted beside it or maybe even on the door. The link provided is for an 8" square panel and should fit through the square hole diagonally from above.
They can also be purchased in metal fire rated if that is a consideration and are commonly used in the UK for access to concealed plumbing and electrical equipment where periodic maintenance is required.
With that in mind your other proposal will not be easily maintained and even initial adjustment of the camera could be a bridge too far.
The other option i can think of is a steel pole painted to blend in with the house positioned beside a down spout maybe.
It's a challenge and i wish you luck.
They can also be purchased in metal fire rated if that is a consideration and are commonly used in the UK for access to concealed plumbing and electrical equipment where periodic maintenance is required.
With that in mind your other proposal will not be easily maintained and even initial adjustment of the camera could be a bridge too far.
The other option i can think of is a steel pole painted to blend in with the house positioned beside a down spout maybe.
It's a challenge and i wish you luck.
NickTheGreat
Pulling my weight
I like this idea. It'd be a little tricky to align the four holes, but maybe attached a dowel or a solid piece of pipe up through the cable hole would allow you to rotate it, and line up your studs.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
Rent a cherry picker, no ladder needed that way and if you get a boom style, like a utility bucket truck, it'll have enough reach to avoid the hot tub problem.
It would have to be very large to go over the deck and still be up 25'.
This doesn't need to be complicated just purchase the same soffit material for the home. Remove a section fore / aft of the target area and make what ever holes you need with the template. Once that's all done follow the route you noted and hoist the entire assembly and secure to the bracing you have in place.
Once done insert the new soffit that is more than likely damaged from removal.
Nobody is going to be able to tell the soffit you simply inserted vs stapled in place from 30 plus feet from the ground. Obviously you're going to secure the new soffit plate with the proper nails so it doesn't flap around in the wind.
Once done insert the new soffit that is more than likely damaged from removal.
Nobody is going to be able to tell the soffit you simply inserted vs stapled in place from 30 plus feet from the ground. Obviously you're going to secure the new soffit plate with the proper nails so it doesn't flap around in the wind.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
Twenty-five feet isn't all that high, especially with a cherry picker. What you're trying to do with mounting a heavy PTZ from inside is like re-inventing the wheel as a square object. The next suggestion is to get a professional to install it for you, at least the mounting portion.
Home depot rents a tow behind cherry picker ( as previously mentioned). Plenty for your purpose. $200.
Or…….
A camera that high will be disappointing so you may want to rethink the location. Mount one lower and solves a few problems. You will probably be more satisfied if you can find a more accessible location.
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Or…….
A camera that high will be disappointing so you may want to rethink the location. Mount one lower and solves a few problems. You will probably be more satisfied if you can find a more accessible location.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sebastiantombs
Known around here
The camera, I believe, is a PTZ so you'd want it higher than normal to take advantage of the zoom capabilities.