IR LED Module burnt out DS-2CD2142FWD-I

Ragnian

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I have (3) DS-2CD2142FWD-I all of them have burnt out IR LEDS. You can see the heat damage where the IR LEDs are burnt out. I got them up and operational in April 2017, does not seem like they lasted that long.

Is it possible to change the IR LED modules...I have searched for parts with no success.

Thanks!
 

wittaj

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Most IR LEDs are good anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000 hours, which sounds like a lot until you figure out how many hours a day they are on every day and in wide ranges of temperature extremes. Some will go out in 4 years and others may last over 10 years. An old box kit I bought once had several cams IR going strong after 12 years and others went out well before that.

Power surges and other things can impact it as well. The fact that you mention heat damage leads me to believe they didn't just go out due to age but rather a surge of some kind or a defective lot of a IRs or cameras.

You can find replacement LED modules, but you may find they do not fit the camera or don't have the same range. You can also purchase an IR illuminator to provide IR after the camera IR goes out, but that is one more thing to install and one unit might only cover one camera. Or do as folks in one of these threads did:


 
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Ragnian

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The heat damage is interesting, I thought the same thing or that I got a defective run of cameras. But the system is in a server rack with UPS power supplies that power the POE switch which in turn powers the cameras.

I did buy a couple of illuminators to keep me up and running for now, but I don't really want that to be the solution for the reasons you already mentioned.

I will read through the links you provided, but I suspect I am up against new cameras, I like the HIK Vision Cameras since I know the interface well (smart events works well with my Synology)...but if they are going to fail ever 10 years then perhaps going with a really nice HIK Vision camera is not the answer.
 

Teken

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The heat damage is interesting, I thought the same thing or that I got a defective run of cameras. But the system is in a server rack with UPS power supplies that power the POE switch which in turn powers the cameras.

I did buy a couple of illuminators to keep me up and running for now, but I don't really want that to be the solution for the reasons you already mentioned.

I will read through the links you provided, but I suspect I am up against new cameras, I like the HIK Vision Cameras since I know the interface well (smart events works well with my Synology)...but if they are going to fail ever 10 years then perhaps going with a really nice HIK Vision camera is not the answer.
I have to agree four years isn’t very long for any modern IP camera. But, at ten years my view is it’s time to begin a slow (planned) migration to newer technology.

Just basic AI to filter human vs vehicle reduces false alerts and endless viewing of emails / timelines. Better IR that requires less elements and lower power consumption. Finally, the most important better low light colour video that reduces motion blur / ghosting.

Anyone pushing a decade of electronics these days given our throw away society is damn lucky!
 

RevB

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The parts required are 3mm 850nm for DS-2CD2142FWD-I. About a 2 hour job per unit. Tools -

Solder sucker like this.....YIHUA 929D-V Electric Desoldering Soldering Iron Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump , Amazon
Copper De-solder wick
Flush cut nippers to straighten bent leads after desolder and to trim leads of LEDs after install
Soldering station with adjustable temp and small half chisel face tip
YOCTOSUN LED Head Magnifier, Rechargeable Hands Free Headband Magnifying Glass with 2 Led, Professional Jeweler's Loupe Light Bracket and Headband .....Amazon (not required but sure is helpful for older eyes)

I got my LEDs from Amazon, 100 to a pack, enough for three cameras.
CHANZON 100 pcs 3mm Infrared Ray IR 850nm Emitter LED Diode Lights (Clear Transparent Round Lens DC 1.4V-1.6V 20mA) Lighting Bulb Lamps Electronics Co

These were $10 a pack. If you wanted to wait awhile you can get these much cheaper from Alibaba or Bang Good.

The primary difference in the replacement units above and what was removed from the board was the placement of the flat spot indicating polarity. The removed units had the flat spot on the side of the negative, short leg of the LED (standard) while the replacements had the flat spot on the face of the LED with the negative, short leg to the right (nonstandard). The PCB has an orientation symbol silk screened on....to place the replacement in the right orientation turn the board so the image has the flat spot on the bottom as you look at it then place the replacement short lead to your right and insert. Easy peazy. In any event you should check the LEDs you use to make sure they didn't place the flat spot in some screwy orientation. Negative lead should always be shorter, tho.

1698597587725.jpeg


 

Ragnian

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Wow, thanks for that, not sure if I am going to go down that route but I like the detail. I have a buddy that loves to do this sort of thing for fun....perhaps he will do it just to have the working cameras. He already has the tools you described.
 
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