wiscojason
n3wb
No problem...be safe.. thank you
looking for new home and business system
- Thread starter wiscojason
- Start date
ah....a land owner! IPCT folks love people like you with big Ford 3500's dualy's 
Is it possible to run 4 x Cat6 cable out to the road entrance with that sign? I could see a camera pointing left...and camera pointing right down the highways road to alert you of oncoming vehicles/persons from 100' distant, a PIR, and a 24v LED light on those posts. Enough time for you to react appropriately.
If not the road...what of running some cable to that center island with the tree infront of the house? Heck... I would do both road sign & posts...and center island.
my quickie 3d paint markup:
Is it possible to run 4 x Cat6 cable out to the road entrance with that sign? I could see a camera pointing left...and camera pointing right down the highways road to alert you of oncoming vehicles/persons from 100' distant, a PIR, and a 24v LED light on those posts. Enough time for you to react appropriately.
If not the road...what of running some cable to that center island with the tree infront of the house? Heck... I would do both road sign & posts...and center island.
my quickie 3d paint markup:
you have lots of space. PTZ's (with the explosion icons) can be used with other cameras that are spotter cameras so they can zoom in and track when needed, covering a wide area.
Most cameras would be set about 6' from the ground. You want FACIAL ID to give to the police and 6' off the ground is the best way for that. License plate too so you have proof specific vehicle was on your property.
Think like a robber. Will he/she come from behind your shop? By walking/driving from road? Front side of house? If yes to all...well, you need camera coverage. And you have lots to cover.
Of course there is a discussion of motion security lights with high lumens to be had. Darkness is not a camera's friend.
Most cameras would be set about 6' from the ground. You want FACIAL ID to give to the police and 6' off the ground is the best way for that. License plate too so you have proof specific vehicle was on your property.
Think like a robber. Will he/she come from behind your shop? By walking/driving from road? Front side of house? If yes to all...well, you need camera coverage. And you have lots to cover.
Of course there is a discussion of motion security lights with high lumens to be had. Darkness is not a camera's friend.
wiscojason
n3wb
lol..f45oah....a land owner! IPCT folks love people like you with big Ford 3500's dualy's
Is it possible to run 4 x Cat6 cable out to the road entrance with that sign? I could see a camera pointing left...and camera pointing right down the highways road to alert you of oncoming vehicles/persons from 100' distant, a PIR, and a 24v LED light on those posts. Enough time for you to react appropriately.
If not the road...what of running some cable to that center island with the tree infront of the house? Heck... I would do both road sign & posts...and center island.
my quickie 3d paint markup:
View attachment 126788
wiscojason
n3wb
the traffic is very constant on the highway...i like your thinking... think it will give tons of false alerts... i can run anything anywhere here. just didnt know how long of a cat 6 i could run
from X / equipment is to back shop of 350'... you are right at the edge of max distance for Cat6 copper (basically 324' is max for compliance). If in a rush, use Cat6 and cross fingers. If gots the time, run fiber cable instead.
For majority of cameras, 5442 varifocal: IPC-T5442T-ZE IPC-T5442TM-AS latest new firmware General_IPC-HX5XXX-Volt_MultiLang_NP_Stream3_V2.800.15OG004.0.R.201203
For PTZ's: Review - Dahua SD49225XA-HNR 2MP 25x Starlight + IR PTZ AI Camera with Deep IVS & SMD Plus there is a 4MP version which I know nothing about. Either way...you do want Auto-Tracking for sure.
For using a Amazon Firestick on a smart TV to bring up UI3 (UI3 is the nice way to see a group of cameras on tv or remote computer): UI3 on Fire TV stick shutting off?
Here is my experience with my tire slasher (you can see how folks came to help out which I highly appreciated): So I roughly have installed a 5442 6mm birdhouse camera on lamp post 50' from my front door....with tire slashing incursion discussion
For majority of cameras, 5442 varifocal: IPC-T5442T-ZE IPC-T5442TM-AS latest new firmware General_IPC-HX5XXX-Volt_MultiLang_NP_Stream3_V2.800.15OG004.0.R.201203
For PTZ's: Review - Dahua SD49225XA-HNR 2MP 25x Starlight + IR PTZ AI Camera with Deep IVS & SMD Plus there is a 4MP version which I know nothing about. Either way...you do want Auto-Tracking for sure.
For using a Amazon Firestick on a smart TV to bring up UI3 (UI3 is the nice way to see a group of cameras on tv or remote computer): UI3 on Fire TV stick shutting off?
Here is my experience with my tire slasher (you can see how folks came to help out which I highly appreciated): So I roughly have installed a 5442 6mm birdhouse camera on lamp post 50' from my front door....with tire slashing incursion discussion
No...if setup cameras & Blue Iris properly, you will maybe get 1 out of 200 false alerts. AI has come a LOOOONG way.
Forum search topics you need to read up on:
how to trench cable (either Cat6 or Fiber or Point To Point dish like Ubiquiti)
how to use spotter camera with PTZ
license plate camera setup and which model camera is best
IVS tripwires and intrusion boxes.
DORI (distance relative to camera lens to identify a face)
outdoor lighting. 24v or 110vac
Home Automation: i favor Home Assitant as it's free and tons of support. There is also HomeSeer and others you can choose from.
a.) MQTT broker
b.) Z-wave or Wifi equipment (I went Z-wave as much as possible)
c.) smart TV interfacing
d.) alarm system interfacing
e.) As I mentioned, the Dahua AI cameras I have infront of my house along with a SD4 series PTZ: if a HUMAN triggers an alert 150' down my driveway, the camera notifies Blue Iris which activates the PTZ to move to a preset and start to auto-track that HUMAN with it's 25x optical lens. Blue Iris also notifies my Home Assistant (via MQTT which you will learn about) to turn on my smart tv, switch to tv source 2 which I have a Rasberry Pi2 hooked to that is 24/7 running the UI3 program. Home Assitant also activates a in-house buzzer. All this happens within 2-3 seconds. Gives me time to investigate & react.
f.) I use a DSC Powerseries 1864 (I think that is the #) which also interfaces with Home Assitant. In addition to the cameras, my just-in-case-backup is using 4 outdoor Bosch pet-friendly PIR's. If those PIR's are trip, the DSC notifies Home Assistant and the smart tv comes on with UI3.
As you can see...with Blue Iris and Home Assistant, soooooooo many doors open. It was VERY important to me to have time to react to a situation on the fly, not 4-6 hours later.
all that research is just for starters
wiscojason
n3wb
This is great.No...if setup cameras & Blue Iris properly, you will maybe get 1 out of 200 false alerts. AI has come a LOOOONG way.
Forum search topics you need to read up on:
how to trench cable (either Cat6 or Fiber or Point To Point dish like Ubiquiti)
how to use spotter camera with PTZ
license plate camera setup and which model camera is best
IVS tripwires and intrusion boxes.
DORI (distance relative to camera lens to identify a face)
outdoor lighting. 24v or 110vac
Home Automation: i favor Home Assitant as it's free and tons of support. There is also HomeSeer and others you can choose from.
a.) MQTT broker
b.) Z-wave or Wifi equipment (I went Z-wave as much as possible)
c.) smart TV interfacing
d.) alarm system interfacing
e.) As I mentioned, the Dahua AI cameras I have infront of my house along with a SD4 series PTZ: if a HUMAN triggers an alert 150' down my driveway, the camera notifies Blue Iris which activates the PTZ to move to a preset and start to auto-track that HUMAN with it's 25x optical lens. Blue Iris also notifies my Home Assistant (via MQTT which you will learn about) to turn on my smart tv, switch to tv source 2 which I have a Rasberry Pi2 hooked to that is 24/7 running the UI3 program. Home Assitant also activates a in-house buzzer. All this happens within 2-3 seconds. Gives me time to investigate & react.
f.) I use a DSC Powerseries 1864 (I think that is the #) which also interfaces with Home Assitant. In addition to the cameras, my just-in-case-backup is using 4 outdoor Bosch pet-friendly PIR's. If those PIR's are trip, the DSC notifies Home Assistant and the smart tv comes on with UI3.
As you can see...with Blue Iris and Home Assistant, soooooooo many doors open. It was VERY important to me to have time to react to a situation on the fly, not 4-6 hours later.
all that research is just for starters
So now that you see you need a multiple purposed cameras the original question remains. Do you have a budget in mind. These cameras I speak of are between $150 to $200 each for static cameras. The PTZ cameras are three or four times that cost depending on the model you pursue. So if you're looking for a $200 setup I have no advice for you and someone else will have to jump in. If you're okay with two or $3,000 total you're on the right track
tangent
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Elaborating on security concerns even vaguely would result in more specific advice. Do you have employees? Are you having a problem with a neighbor?
While it sounds like you believe you've got a fairly urgent need to improve your security. I wouldn't try to do it all at once. Make a bigger plan, budget, etc. and do it in phases. You will make mistakes along the way, learn from them and get better. It's a good idea to make a test rig with a varifocal (adjustable zoom) camera so you can evaluate different camera locations. You have a lot of different options.
Given the nature of your property you'll have to make some choices regarding your various buildings. You'll also want to think about your expectations, goals, and budget.
Alarm System. Presumably you have some experience as a user of alarm systems at some point, but maybe not. Generally you've got a home and away mode. When armed away motion detectors inside the house are active and aren't when armed home. Most door and window sensors are pretty simple, just a magnetic switch that opens and closes. If the system is armed and a sensor is triggered your entry delay starts (time to disarm), if not disarmed then the siren(s) go off and if you have monitoring the monitoring station is notified and police dispatched (they often call you first).
You mentioned protecting 16 windows as a priority, but should know that if a window is broken a typical window senor won't go off. If someone breaks a window, unlocks the window, and then opens it it would. There are also acoustic glass break sensors that detect the sound of breaking glass and can cover multiple windows in the same room. They work pretty well. A fairly good residential alarm system consists of sensors on all doors, a few motion detectors, a smoke detector, and if you're lucky a glass break sensor or two. Your typical fly-by-night special is 1-2 doors, 1 motion detector, and If you're lucky 1 smoke detector. Wireless alarms are popular due to cost and ease of installation. Most wired systems are hybrids with some wireless sensors. If you've got a crawlspace or unfinished basement it may not be that hard to have some hardwired zones. Especially on doors well-installed wired contacts are more discrete than wireless sensors. A DSC PSC-1864 may be a good option depending on your goals.
A more complicated aspect of your alarm system would be whether you want sensors / a separate partition in the garage or other outbuildings (with keypads and sensors in those buildings). Also whether or not livestock / rodents in those buildings might trigger the alarm.
Along those lines you've got some choices regarding the topology of your setup regarding other buildings. Presumably most of the cameras will be on the house and garage. Most of the buildings appear to have power, do they all? Are they on the same electric meter as the house?
I'd consider tying to cover the road / highway with a camera or two that's zoomed in enough and positioned so it can see license plates of passing cars. That's a more challenging thing to do and not a good place to start but worth considering long term. You can use LPR software to read license plates and file every car that drives by into a nice little database.
Experiment with the IPVM camera calculator to get an idea of the field of view and level of detail you might be able to get with different cameras / locations. IPVM Designer / Calculator Some camera would be used to provide an overview of what's happening and others detail focused on choke points and vulnerable areas. You probably want some cameras inside some of the buildings.
While it sounds like you believe you've got a fairly urgent need to improve your security. I wouldn't try to do it all at once. Make a bigger plan, budget, etc. and do it in phases. You will make mistakes along the way, learn from them and get better. It's a good idea to make a test rig with a varifocal (adjustable zoom) camera so you can evaluate different camera locations. You have a lot of different options.
Given the nature of your property you'll have to make some choices regarding your various buildings. You'll also want to think about your expectations, goals, and budget.
Alarm System. Presumably you have some experience as a user of alarm systems at some point, but maybe not. Generally you've got a home and away mode. When armed away motion detectors inside the house are active and aren't when armed home. Most door and window sensors are pretty simple, just a magnetic switch that opens and closes. If the system is armed and a sensor is triggered your entry delay starts (time to disarm), if not disarmed then the siren(s) go off and if you have monitoring the monitoring station is notified and police dispatched (they often call you first).
You mentioned protecting 16 windows as a priority, but should know that if a window is broken a typical window senor won't go off. If someone breaks a window, unlocks the window, and then opens it it would. There are also acoustic glass break sensors that detect the sound of breaking glass and can cover multiple windows in the same room. They work pretty well. A fairly good residential alarm system consists of sensors on all doors, a few motion detectors, a smoke detector, and if you're lucky a glass break sensor or two. Your typical fly-by-night special is 1-2 doors, 1 motion detector, and If you're lucky 1 smoke detector. Wireless alarms are popular due to cost and ease of installation. Most wired systems are hybrids with some wireless sensors. If you've got a crawlspace or unfinished basement it may not be that hard to have some hardwired zones. Especially on doors well-installed wired contacts are more discrete than wireless sensors. A DSC PSC-1864 may be a good option depending on your goals.
A more complicated aspect of your alarm system would be whether you want sensors / a separate partition in the garage or other outbuildings (with keypads and sensors in those buildings). Also whether or not livestock / rodents in those buildings might trigger the alarm.
Along those lines you've got some choices regarding the topology of your setup regarding other buildings. Presumably most of the cameras will be on the house and garage. Most of the buildings appear to have power, do they all? Are they on the same electric meter as the house?
- You can bury ethernet or fiber optic cable between the buildings
- You can use special wifi devices to create a reliable link between buildings, this is likely your fastest and cheapest option. It can work well, but you do need to be mindful of the bandwidth you need.
- If the buildings are all behind the same electric meter you could attempt to use powerline networking to link them but this is a less reliable option.
- You could locate some equipment in other buildings like a power over ethernet (PoE) switch, NVR, or VMS. This could include a UPS for backup power and some sort of locking enclosure. You could still monitor from the house or even have a redundant recording.
- Is monitoring the interior of various building a priority?
I'd consider tying to cover the road / highway with a camera or two that's zoomed in enough and positioned so it can see license plates of passing cars. That's a more challenging thing to do and not a good place to start but worth considering long term. You can use LPR software to read license plates and file every car that drives by into a nice little database.
Experiment with the IPVM camera calculator to get an idea of the field of view and level of detail you might be able to get with different cameras / locations. IPVM Designer / Calculator Some camera would be used to provide an overview of what's happening and others detail focused on choke points and vulnerable areas. You probably want some cameras inside some of the buildings.
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