Lorex NVR won't reset or turn on

timjet

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3 weeks ago a tree next to my house got hit by lightning. My Lorex NVR model N842A8-Z would only display 4 of the 8 camera's connected to it. So today I attempted to reconnect the 4 camera's that didn't display and in do so I smelled a hot electrical smell. I disconnected power to the NVR and reconnected but when connecting a monitor to the HDMI connection on the DVR I can't get the DVR to get beyond the blue Lorex Screen. This is not the welcome screen. I did a manual reset by pressing the reset button inside the NVR but that did no good. So I'm thinking the NVR is toast. My question is are the 4 camera's that didn't display on the monitor before I attempted to "fix" it likely to be toast as well. I can replace the NVR for under $300 but if the camera's are also toast I don't want to do that. So is there any way to test the camera's?
 

TonyR

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Sorry 'bout that. I know how you feel when it comes to lightning, it's a common occurrence around here and in the southeast U.S. in general.
You might be able to connect the cam to a 12VDC wall wart, perform a hard reset, connect to your LAN and connect to its webGUI on a PC by opening a browser to its IP address.

If you get that far maybe streaming RTSP to VLC would prove that it might have survived.

What is the exact camera model?
 

timjet

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Thanks Tony, but you're talking way over my head. The 8 camera's came with the NVR and are Lorex branded. The camera model #: E892AB-Z.
 

TonyR

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Thanks Tony, but you're talking way over my head. The 8 camera's came with the NVR and are Lorex branded. The camera model #: E892AB-Z.
Of course the manual on their site for that cam is "NOT FOUND." :confused:

The cams are OEM'd by Dahua and if they're ONVIF-compliant it could likely stream to a Dahua NVR; it would be video only and maybe some audio but some of the special features would likely work only with a compatible Lorex NVR as listed here.

If you feel like what I said in my first reply was "over your head" I suggest you get a compatible NVR from Lorex if you want to use the 4 remaining cams and was pleased with their performance and features OR buy another complete and comparable boxed "turn key" system.
 
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timjet

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Thanks again Tony. As you said I must decide if taking a chance and replacing the recorder and hoping the camera's work or replacing the entire system.
 

wittaj

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Most of us here would not recommend an all-in-one box kit anyway, so go with a Dahua OEM NVR like this one and if the cameras are shot, you can then at least upgrade to better cameras:



See this thread for the commonly recommended cameras (along with Amazon links) based on distance to IDENTIFY that represent the overall best value in terms of price and performance day and night.

The Importance of Focal Length over MP in camera selection
 
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TonyR

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Most of us here would not recommend an all-in-one box kit anyway,
Agreed......but when someone says that connecting a cam to a 12VDC wall wart, performing a hard reset, and connecting it to their LAN is "talking way over my head", I do recommend such...especially if they were happy with it before it had issues.

If the OP is willing to spend some time learning, asking questions and taking instructions AND someone on IPCT is ready, willing and able to assist him when needed, I think a new Dahua POE NVR and some cameras that suit his needs is a terrific idea.:cool:
 

timjet

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Yes I think I can connect a cam to a 12VDC wall wart, performing a hard reset, and connecting it to their LAN but connect to its webGUI on a PC by opening a browser to its IP address I will need some help with.
 

Oldtechguy66

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All Lorex IP cams are Dahua OEM, at least all I've run into (and that's a few) in the last 10 yrs. I also have (had) a Lorex NVR similar to yours, Timjet. Mine took a hit, lost 12 of 16 POE ports (no POE V+). All my cameras survived. They are tougher than the NVRs, as far as surge protection. I also had 8 cameras on a Q-See system several years ago that actually caught video of lightning flashing overhead - a wee bit too close. I had UTP (not shielded) LAN cable, which was a mistake. The induced common mode surge had to go somewhere, so it found the NVR. It blew out the HDMI port (in use), but nothing else. It scambled the firmware, but I was able to factory reset it, reload firmware, and get it going again, albeit only via VGA port (no HDMI). Given how close the lighting was, I was really surprised the cameras survived at all... but one on top the house, mounted at gable peak, survived and I still have it in use today (just to see how long it will last).
All you need do is have a 12v DC power supply (1 amp min, coaxial power plug, center positive!) or a POE switch. Plug the camera into your PC LAN (after configuring the appropriate IP settings), then do as you say, log in via web GUI.
I keep spare routers around, so I just plug a camera to test into the router, configure ports/IP as needed, and log in via WiFi over tablet, phone, laptop, or whatever convenient. No need to connect the router to the internet for testing, although some OS's (winbloze & android) will complain loudly your WiFi signal has no internet access, and may log you out or make you explicitely ok a WiFi connection without internet (surely you wouldn't want a connection without internet! Say it's not so!)
Anyway, I keep an old router on the shop bench handy for testing network gadgets such as cameras. You can use the router webGUI to check the camera connection, but I prefer several mobile device network utilities on the tablet or phone. It'll spot the camera IP, show you which ports are open, ping the camera, and perform a host of other functions. Then you can use your fav browser to log into the camera webGUI to configure & test, or use a streaming media player such as VLC to see if camera video is working. ONVIER is one app (Android at least) that works great to discover IP cameras on a network, and connect to them. But lots of different ways to achieve the same results.
My guess would be your cameras survived, but the NVR took the hit. Seems to be the way it usually works for me anyway. Since you're at least getting the Lorex blue screen, the NVR is trying to boot but cannot. Guessing you've either lost part of the power supply legs, or one is being pulled down due to shorted component(s). Don't know why, but they don't seem to use much in the way of surge protection on NVRs (little if any on POE LAN side), maybe a MOV on the mains power side, none or little on the low voltage sides of supply. Cameras on the other hand do seem to have at least minimal surge protection.
Note - LAN surge protectors are available, though not cheap - but they are cheaper than new cameras and NVRs. They are available in various voltage ratings. I use diffferent types depending on if I'm protecting 18, 24, 48-56v POE devices. I'm not in lightning alley FLORIDA; but here in the W NC mtns, we see plenty of nature's X-ray bolts from the sky and the damage it can cause. Good luck!
 

timjet

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Thanks Techguy, your post was informative. I called Lorex and they gave me a deal on a new NVR that's compatible with my existing camera's. I was beginning to believe the POE ports on the NVR may have been the issue. After the strike the 5 thru 8 ports connected camera's weren't working. After tinkering with it I must have done something (though I know enough not to short things out) because I smelled a hot electrical smell and then nothing worked except the dreaded blue Lorex screen. Anyway I'm hoping all the camera's are OK. All wiring to the camera's are inside the house except one is buried in conduit for about 70' to my garage camera. That camera was on one of the 5-8 ports. If any camera's are shot that's the one I would think most likely to be bad.
 

TonyR

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All wiring to the camera's are inside the house except one is buried in conduit for about 70' to my garage camera.
Florida....lightning.....70 feet of Ethernet cable in ground outdoors = damage to NVR

I think I'd consider a different way to connect that garage cam this time....KEY QUESTION: Is there power in the garage?

If so, I'd consider a pair of PLA's (Power Line Adapters), a wireless bridge if there is reasonably clear LOS (Line Of Sight) from house to garage or fiber optic cable....that metallic CAT cable in the ground is like a lightning antenna; just a nearby strike can induce enough ESD (static) on that cable to damage connected components. PLA's can get damaged as well but the damage usually ends with them.

Sure it's an additional expense but the alternative could be replacing damaged components every so often. And if that NVR is connected to your LAN I would not rule out ESD not stopping there; I've seen it damage almost every device hardwired into that LAN. And we're not FL but AL has some really bad lightning storms at time.
 
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Oldtechguy66

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LoL, yes, Lorex always seems to have a "deal" if pressed, and they think you may go elsewhere. I supposedly have a Lorex business acct rep, but he's never responded to any inquiry about products or pricing. I think he's actually vaporware. I just watch the Lorex site, check it a few times, and somehow like magic the item(s) I watch suddenly drop in price if I go to other sites and check prices. Funny how that works.
Not sure your garage camera is necessarily the culprit. Cable buried in conduit has more protection than cable exposed above ground. The biggest factor IMHO is UTP (unshielded twisted pair) cable. It offers no protection to common mode transients, such as you'd see with proximity lightning strikes. I had 100s of feet of UTP cat5E strung through the house when I had the Q-See NVR, including multiple runs thru the attic. The cables acted like an antenna, so when a lightning bolt flashed overhead VERY close, the induced voltage on the camera cables was huge. I heard the arc inside the NVR, which was a very lout POP. I knew what that meant... magic smoke was let out. Electronics won't work without the magic smoke. Once it's out, parts no longer work LoL :rofl:
One big caveat about cable in buried conduit: It is very difficult to keep ALL water OUT of the conduit. Eventually some will likely get in from somewhere. Once it does, your LAN cable sits immersed. Might be fine for a while, but eventually a crack in the jacket will allow moisture in the cable. It goes downhill from there. So, as odd as it may sound, it's best to use outdoor rated cable, and sometimes flooded jacket type even though it may be in conduit. I've had no problems (so far) with running Ubiquiti "Tough Cable" in buried conduit, or elsewhere. I now use it for internal runs in the house, attic, or anywhere outside. It is shielded cable, and greatly mitigates induced surges from lightning. It is not flooded type, so theoretically not for direct burial, but I have seen it used that way without problems.
If you have a bad camera, it is most likely the one which had the longest and HIGHEST run of cable...but there are a million variables, so you never know. Hopefully it was "just" the NVR bad. Most likely the POE ports took the hit, shorting the POE B+ power supply (+48v). Low voltage logic power (5, 3.3) probably ok since the unit was trying to power up, at least producing the Lorex Logo screen.
If you don't already have one, get a good AC power surge cube or strip (1000 joules or better). Use one on the NVR AND ALL other networked equipment. We have such bad lightning problems in our area, I had to install commercial panel surge protectors the main and sub breaker panels, plus I use quality surge strips on all electronics. POE surge protector devices are available as well, but implementing them on every camera would be costly. Shielded cable (STP) is the best investment I've made yet as to protection of the devices from EMP.

Sorry TonyR, have to disagree somewhat on buried cable being more susceptible to lightning. From an induced voltage standpoint, not so (assuming average to good ground conductivity). The higher the cable above ground, the more the induced voltage. It used to be well known that even handling UNCONNECTED bare conductors at heights well above ground (say 25 ft & up) incurred a significant risk of shock (even death) - from just static potential. The higher up, the higher the voltage. A 100 ft length of LAN cable stung 30 ft above ground will incur far higher charge than one at ground level. Buried cables will see even less.... BUT there is a caveat. IF lightning strikes the ground in proximity of the cable, massive ground currents can induce damaging voltage on the cable. If the cable has a weak spot in the jacket, and there is moisture present, you're now talking not only induced (inductive coupled) voltages, but direct leakage (conduction). The worst case scenario other than a direct strike to equipment is a ground strike near the utility service entrance ground rods. I have seen it happen more than once. Current flows from the ground back into the house mains, searching for the path of least resistance - which is often electronic equipment. I've seen appliances, HVAC equipment, AV equipment, as well as security equipment damaged or destroyed by ground strikes. There is very little that can be done to mitigate these type hits, AFAIK. In my experience, most of the time, damage from lightning comes from large transients induced on the utility mains, which finds the weakest link in the home - almost always electronic devices. When it comes to lightning, there is one thing that helps more than anything else... DISTANCE! 1/R^2 rule applies. The big problem with buried cables and lignting tends to be where lightning finds entry point above ground, then reconnects with earth where the cable is buried. I've had to more than once dig up and replace MELTED 10 ga UF feeder cable to wells pumps. Lightning hit the cable above ground, then exited underground... usually a significant distance from the point of entry below ground. Lightning makes its own rules, does what it wants, when it wants, and how it wants. The problem with transients, whether on AC mains or on any type LV cable is the voltage spike may not be enough to damage the device immediately - so all appear well. But, it can "pinhole" semiconductors, making them far more likely to fail during the next transient, even a smaller one. So, a device which appears to have survived a major transient event may fail soon afterward for no apparent reason. I've seen it many times.
 

Oldtechguy66

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Timjet - One other thing - strongly advise you to test EACH camera with a 12v dc supply or POE switch BEFORE connecting to your new NVR. IF a camera is shorted, it may possibly damage the new NVR (POE port(s)). Unfortunately they are not fused, so any damage to the NVR ports will be permanent. It is also possible for the camera POE input to fail (dead camera), but feeding it 12v DC via the coaxial pigtail may allow the camera to work. Have had that happen twice on some older Lorex cameras. Also, check the camera RJ45 pins for signs of daamge - corrosion, arcing, or mechanical failure. If the RJ45 connector pins are in bad shape, you'll end up with a burned connector and useless camera. Just my 2 cents, YMMV
Good luck!
 

Flintstone61

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You could fry components the new NVR if you hook up any of the cameras that stopped working after the lightning strike. I would test them somehow first.
 

TonyR

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Sorry TonyR, have to disagree somewhat on buried cable being more susceptible to lightning. From an induced voltage standpoint, not so (assuming average to good ground conductivity). The higher the cable above ground, the more the induced voltage.
That's your right to disagree but nowhere in my posts did I say "buried cable being more susceptible to lightning".

I know for a fact that I have responded to repair equipment that was damaged by ESD when a nearby lightning strike induced voltage onto conductors that were directly buried in the ground, in addition to some occurrences where the cable was strung overhead. In my experience, not from something I read about or was told, I have seen with my own eyes more damage from overhead cable runs than underground but that doesn't mean it has not or will not happen to those underground.

I've seen lightning here in Alabama dig a trench in the soil from the base of a mature pine and follow its roots about 10 feet out to a water line then follow the water line maybe 20 feet toward a 250 gal. propane tank where it stopped about 10 feet from it. Where it followed the water line it plowed the ground and sod in a crooked pattern about 4 or 5 inches wide and several inches deep just like someone had used a crude hand plow. From that first hand observation I would think it's not a stretch to see how anything metallic buried in the soil could be affected.

Now I am not talking about NC where I have no experience but I will state unequivocally that lightning here in AL can induce and has induced damaging ESD onto conductors buried in the soil. :cool:
 

Flintstone61

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I remember the 2nd time my Mom's house had a close hit, and Cable modem got fried( again) and carried the juice to the computer and killed/ or incapacitated the dell Inspiron tower.
Naperville IL gets some hellacious lightning as I recall. I think we had her buy a bunch of surge protectors. Didn't hear about anymore service disruptions after that.
 

timjet

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OP here, I replaced the NVR with one that is compatible with my camera's. I did not connect the camera with the underground cable that went to my detached garage to the new NVR but all the other camera's work. I do have power in the detached garage and a wifi access point as well. I may replaced the garage camera with a Lorex Wifi camera in the future.
 

TonyR

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OP here, I replaced the NVR with one that is compatible with my camera's. I did not connect the camera with the underground cable that went to my detached garage to the new NVR but all the other camera's work. I do have power in the detached garage and a wifi access point as well. I may replaced the garage camera with a Lorex Wifi camera in the future.
Glad the NVR is working.

Have you ruled out using a pair of PLA's from house to garage instead of going to a wireless camera?
 
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timjet

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Glad the NVR is working.

Have you ruled out using a pair of PLA's from house to garage instead of going to a wireless camera?
My garage has its own 50 amp circuit powered from the main circuit breaker panel in the house and my router is inside the house so on a different circuit.
 
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