Lots of questions for soffit install

[staind204]

I have finally tested my cameras locally and am ready to install them! I want to mount them on my vinyl soffit. I know a soffit is a bit high up but the rest of my house is brick so I don't want to drill into it. I bought junction boxes like below (for example, i have several boxes depending on the cam).

EmpireTech Water-Proof Junction Box Bracket PFA130-E White - - Amazon.com

I was surprised that there is no hole to feed the wires through the top of the mount, it looks like you have to put in the wire from the side of the box (see 3rd pic in my link). So I am supposed to mount the box then drill a small hole in the soffit to feed the wire down and into the side of the box? If so that doesn't seem very clean looking to have a small wire showing, so that's why I am asking.

My plan is to run my Cat6 from my basement to attic, it will terminate to Ubiquiti Flex Switches (powered by POE++) and then go out to the cameras. That will allow me to have shorter runs to the cameras.

1) Is there a recommended "How To" video for soffit installs? I have a Kline tools 30ft fishing tape, do you think that's sufficient, or will I need the "fiberglass fishing poles" (Length is fine, i'm talking more about do I have the right tool for the job?)
2) Would it be a good idea to cut some wood boards slightly shorter than the vinyl soffits and put them up in the soffit and mount the junction boxes/cameras to that? I saw a video once of someone cutting aluminum strips to put in the soffit but those don't seem that sturdy. These cameras are fairly heavy.
3) Anything else to be aware of or watch out for? (ex: I already installed my MicroSD cards, if i had mounted first that could have been a pain).

Thanks!

 

[wittaj]

You can punch a hole thru the back of the box.

Many of us use aluminum stock to mount the camera to and then shove the stock into the supports holding the soffit and shove the wiring up into the soffit and skip the box.

 

[JustAnotherCameraGuy]

My plan is to run my Cat6 from my basement to attic, it will terminate to Ubiquiti Flex Switches (powered by POE++) and then go out to the cameras. That will allow me to have shorter runs to the cameras.

Not sure where you live and what kind of temperature swings you get but putting electronics in the attic (especially something that could be considered critical for security) is generally a bad idea. If the equipment is subject to wild temperature swings and/or humidity don't expect it to have a long life. You might be better off running multiple lines.

 

[staind204]

Not sure where you live and what kind of temperature swings you get but putting electronics in the attic (especially something that could be considered critical for security) is generally a bad idea. If the equipment is subject to wild temperature swings and/or humidity don't expect it to have a long life. You might be better off running multiple lines.

It's a great point but this switch is designed to be used outside. I also have outdoor weather proof enclosures (may be overkill in my attic but I wanted to be safe)
Switch Flex Utility – Ubiquiti Inc.

 

[JustAnotherCameraGuy]

It's a great point but this switch is designed to be used outside. I also have outdoor weather proof enclosures (may be overkill in my attic but I wanted to be safe)
Switch Flex Utility – Ubiquiti Inc.

Putting a sealed device inside another weather proof enclosure in an attic is only going to hold more heat in. Are you aware how hot your attic gets in the summer? I am familiar with the ubiquiti products. Network systems engineer for over 20 years. I'm simply saying putting network equipment in the attic is bad practice. Not to mention, it's much easier to troubleshoot and maintain equipment from a central location. No doubt your solution will work, but the equipment will have a shorter lifespan. The operating temperature of the switch is listed with the max at 140F, then what does it shut down or just keep on chugging until the solid state components burn up?

 

[Vettester]

I saw a video once of someone cutting aluminum strips to put in the soffit but those don't seem that sturdy.

I haven't completed this yet, but I did use two pieces of aluminum flat stock to mount the junction box to. I still need to trim it up a bit and paint it to match the soffit.

 

[staind204]

Putting a sealed device inside another weather proof enclosure in an attic is only going to hold more heat in. Are you aware how hot your attic gets in the summer? I am familiar with the ubiquiti products. Network systems engineer for over 20 years. I'm simply saying putting network equipment in the attic is bad practice. Not to mention, it's much easier to troubleshoot and maintain equipment from a central location. No doubt your solution will work, but the equipment will have a shorter lifespan. The operating temperature of the switch is listed with the max at 140F, then what does it shut down or just keep on chugging until the solid state components burn up?

Thanks for providing the max temps. The hottest it's ever been in history in my city is 104 degrees. It's typically pretty cool and even on a hot summer day it's probably 90 outside. My attic is very well insulated as well. You still think I'll have issues?

I haven't completed this yet, but I did use two pieces of aluminum flat stock to mount the junction box to. I still need to trim it up a bit and paint it to match the soffit.

I had always pictured the strips going above/on top of the soffit but that looks pretty good too!

 

[sebastiantombs]

I don't bother with a PFA130 when soffit mounting. The facia is aluminum clad so I just bend it out of the way along a section long enough to get one piece of the soffit out, they may be stapled in place but if you pull the staples it'll slide right out. That gives lots of room to work getting the CAT cable in place. I do weatherproof the cable gland with Coax Seal and 3M 33+ after using a dab of dielectric grease on the RJ45 connector. I tuck the cable in a groove of the soffit material, maybe have to notch the inner rail that holds the house side of the soffit in place, route the cable into the soffit/attic, slide the piece of soffit back in and bend the facia back into place neatly. No wires showing, no holes through the soffit and easy wire routing. I do use a dab of vinyl calk to hold the aluminum flat stock solidly in place.

Painting the aluminum to match is a procedure though. First, wash the aluminum using a Scotch Brite and dish soap to remove the outer oxide layer. Dry it off, then give it a light oat of aluminum primer. Let it dry for 24 hours and apply another thin coat of aluminum primer. Only use aluminum primer as it is designed to bind to the aluminum in spite of the tendency of aluminum to oxide. Regular primers do not do that. Once the primer has dried fully, another 24 hours, paint it to match the soffit color. Again give it plenty of time to dry and bind to the primer. Two light coats should do the trick.

 

[JustAnotherCameraGuy]

Thanks for providing the max temps. The hottest it's ever been in history in my city is 104 degrees. It's typically pretty cool and even on a hot summer day it's probably 90 outside. My attic is very well insulated as well. You still think I'll have issues?



I had always pictured the strips going above/on top of the soffit but that looks pretty good too!

The problem you will be dealing with is the solar heat gain. Most likely your attic is not insulated directly under the roof surface area. Even radiant barriers only help so much. Physics and experience tells us that attics are hotter than ambient exterior temperatures. Physics also tells us that because you're using a switch as a power supply it will generate more heat than a non-PoE switch. On average your attic is probably 10-20F hotter than the exterior ambient temperature, which puts it at 130+F in the summer. I wouldn't be surprised if that little switch internally runs 80-100F in an air conditioned space depending on how much power is being pushed through it. As far as temperatures go, you would actually be better off putting the switch outside against a north or east facing wall up high in a weather proof locked enclosure than sticking it in the attic. This would at least allow you to attach a small fan to get some airflow through the enclosure.

In any case, I wish you good luck with what you decide. I just hate to see folks spend money on equipment to have it burnt up in a few years.

 

[staind204]

Thanks for pointing this out. I have not drilled any holes or ran any of my permanent wires to the attic. I do have a closet in my garage.. maybe that would be a better alternative to place the flex switches. I will do some more investigation as I've quickly learned to plan first (multiple times) before going into execution.

 

[JustAnotherCameraGuy]

Thanks for pointing this out. I have not drilled any holes or ran any of my permanent wires to the attic. I do have a closet in my garage.. maybe that would be a better alternative to place the flex switches. I will do some more investigation as I've quickly learned to plan first (multiple times) before going into execution.

Just keep in mind the internal temp of the switch will be higher than the ambient temp of where you place it. The higher the internal temp, the faster electronic components will wear out, often without much warning. I assume you will be doing bench testing before installing, so make sure to run the switch with the most outputs you can (4 PoE cameras) and try to get some temperature baselines before you choose your install location.

 

[looney2ns]

A conditioned space is always a plus.

 

[staind204]

Sadly I don't think a conditioned space is going to be realistically possible. If I do a "home run" to each camera from my basement, I'm looking at 200 ft a wire (not to mention an absurd number of wires, I'm already running dedicated wire for 10 ethernet jacks in various rooms of my house that will be "home runned"). It looks like I can fairly easily get to the garage closet for my flex switches. From what I read a garage may get 20-30 degrees hotter than outside while an attic may get 50 degrees hotter! Even on the hottest day on record of 104, the garage shouldn't get above 120 degrees (a super hot day like that would be rare anyway). Hopefully this will be somewhat of a compromise between running direct to the cameras from the basement and putting the flex switch up in the attic, In the garage I can easily get to it as well vs. having to move cars and climb into the attic..

 

[mat200]

Sadly I don't think a conditioned space is going to be realistically possible. If I do a "home run" to each camera from my basement, I'm looking at 200 ft a wire (not to mention an absurd number of wires, I'm already running dedicated wire for 10 ethernet jacks in various rooms of my house that will be "home runned"). It looks like I can fairly easily get to the garage closet for my flex switches. From what I read a garage may get 20-30 degrees hotter than outside while an attic may get 50 degrees hotter! Even on the hottest day on record of 104, the garage shouldn't get above 120 degrees (a super hot day like that would be rare anyway). Hopefully this will be somewhat of a compromise between running direct to the cameras from the basement and putting the flex switch up in the attic, In the garage I can easily get to it as well vs. having to move cars and climb into the attic..

Depending on the attic, you may have enough room to build a small conditioned closet in the attic ..