May need advice: digging trench for retaining wall. I'm out of ideas other than manual labor

[Holbs]

I'd say to use a 20 or 30 ton hydraulic jack to pull them, not a ratchet jack on a relatively flimsy piece of iron. I've seen utility guys pull a telephone pole, which is typically buried 6 to 10 feet, with no problem in places where they can't get their trucks into. Just use a big base for the jack so it doesn't bury itself.

I tried my car trolley hydraulic jack (3ton? 5ton?). But I guess after a certain angle, it does not work cause the hydraulic fluid dip under the fluid feed or something. Granted, I went in at an angle and did not dig out a flat spot for the entire jack.
I do not have a 20/30 ton hydraulic jack Never thought I would need one.

 

[sebastiantombs]

No, you need a bottle jack, not a trolley jack, to do that. It's a PITA getting the chain/cable attached to the jack but worth the effort. The utility guys had a slip on hook just for that.

 

[Holbs]

No, you need a bottle jack, not a trolley jack, to do that. It's a PITA getting the chain/cable attached to the jack but worth the effort. The utility guys had a slip on hook just for that.

I've seen vids of guys using 6x6 lumber over the top of something to pull out and using trolley or bottle jack to lift something up. I may give that a shot.
I guess my issue is using dinky jacks.
Once I get the footings somewhat broken loose, it's easy from there. It's getting them to initially break.

 

[sebastiantombs]

Maybe use a 6x6 as a lever for the jack you already have. That will take a load off the jack and increase your pulling power. I've pulled a lot of 4x4 posts, buried as deep as four feet, using a 2x6-12, on edge, as a lever and me as the jack. fast and easy, to me anyway.

 

[Holbs]

Maybe use a 6x6 as a lever for the jack you already have. That will take a load off the jack and increase your pulling power. I've pulled a lot of 4x4 posts, buried as deep as four feet, using a 2x6-12, on edge, as a lever and me as the jack. fast and easy, to me anyway.

Add to the fact..I think the cement has "adhered" to that city runoff canal cement. I think the better result would be to side to side motion rather than straight up. I can dig the sides out aok. Underneath not so much. I'll give side-to-side a shot first with equipment I have. If not go, will purchase cheap Harbor Freight $39 20 ton bottle jack for 2nd option. 3rd option, hiring someone

 

[Holbs]

I'd be using the front loader on my tractor to pull that post up, same deal with the chain, just tied to the tractor's front loader. leave some heavy implement on the back of my 1948 8N so it doesn't nose dive, give the engine some RPMs, then yank it out with the loader. I might try and wrap the chain around the rocks.

you could do the same with that digger shown earlier, just watch your overall angles (don't do it from far back, get the tractor close as you can so its pulling up on an effective short arm)

what tonnage can a front loader lift up? I have alot of landscaping things do to. So far, all manual labor with shovels, wheelbarrow, digging bar. I am not afraid of doing the manual labor part. It's these dang footings that need to go bye bye for the retaining wall drainage rock and anti-frost-heave issue.

 

[Flintstone61]

Front loader? you mean a Dingo or a Bobcat with a bucket?

 

[Flintstone61]

the hydaulics are strong enough, but the ballast on the rear of the machine limits your lift to probably 1000 lbs of dirt/rock etc. in a dingo, and maybe 2500-3000 in a bobcat. Although I've seen a bobcat with forklift attachments on job sites.

 

[Holbs]

Temps are suppose to drop to the regular 80's and 90's this week. And hopefully, the air quality index drops down. fence posts, and redwood fence lumber). I will initially try hard labor or hire some kids / day laborers perhaps (never hired day laborers before). If that doesnt pan out, I guess will hire a Tow Truck
One thing of note for those looking to do retaining wall blocks + a fence. I called around to some fencing companies today to ask some questions and to see if I can hire some contractors. Well, well, well. Learn something new everyday. It comes HIGHLY suggested to put the fence line 3 feet away from the top of the retaining wall due to the wind shear force upon the posts. If too close to retaining wall, it could buckle or topple the entire wall. I didn't think of this! But sounds logical. The 3 fence companies I spoke of said they would not certify nor warranty the work because of this science.
It's not an option to bring the fence line 3 feet in.
Doing some googling, one of the only ways to do this correctly (in some cases, by city code)... have to use Sleeve-It SDS1 cones. Bad thing is nearly $100 per piece and I need 10 of them. Ebay has 5 in a box for $300. Will see if I can get this 5 and worry about the other 5 in due time. But does allow you to put any fence post butt up against the retaining wall as long as installed correctly. I do wonder if I can 3D print something like this...hmm....

 

[sebastiantombs]

Look at the gravel fill under that cone, too, and that would need to be well tamped to avoid settling. Maybe steel "dead men", underground and anchored well, re-enforcing the retaining wall would do the trick, but you'd still need one for each fence post.

 

[Holbs]

Look at the gravel fill under that cone, too, and that would need to be well tamped to avoid settling. Maybe steel "dead men", underground and anchored well, re-enforcing the retaining wall would do the trick, but you'd still need one for each fence post.

Never understood deadmen anchors. I figured out why they are used except for the installation. Seems you have to dig up your entire yard to installed deadmen (same for GeoGrid). I'm not digging down 24" for my entire yard

 

[sebastiantombs]

You would need to dig horizontally from each post location, say 8-10 feet. At the far end you'd need to do a footing for the far end anchor of the dead man. They would take the strain from wind loading pretty well.

 

[Holbs]

You would need to dig horizontally from each post location, say 8-10 feet. At the far end you'd need to do a footing for the far end anchor of the dead man. They would take the strain from wind loading pretty well.

the issue is...I only have a 10' backyard

 

[sebastiantombs]

Sorry, I'm used to a few hundred feet, all the way around

 

[Holbs]

Sorry, I'm used to a few hundred feet, all the way around

One of the reasons why I picked this house to purchase was the small yardage to maintain. Very small backyard, especially with a 12'x6' shed. I can stick a 8'x20' oval pool in there and that will be about all of my backyard

 

[sebastiantombs]

Yeah, sometimes, like when the leaves come down, it's a real PITA here.

 

[Holbs]

One of the reasons why I picked this house to purchase was the small yardage to maintain. Very small backyard, especially with a 12'x6' shed. I can stick a 8'x20' oval pool in there and that will be about all of my backyard

easy weeds to clear out but the drop off is about 2-3' to the right of the shed. You can see my backyard neighbors fence line and his trashy area. Hence, can not get machinery into this area at ground level.

 

[Holbs]

easy weeds to clear out but the drop off is about 2-3' to the right of the shed. You can see my backyard neighbors fence line and his trashy area. Hence, can not get machinery into this area at ground level.

man... my backyard looks like crap The things I share on this site!

 

[Old Timer]

man... my backyard looks like crap The things I share on this site!

At least you can mow it in a few minutes, It takes me hours to mow my "back yard" (pasture).

 

[Holbs]

At least you can mow it in a few minutes, It takes me hours to mow my "back yard" (pasture).

I did not know I would get into wood working or DIY stuff when I initially bought this house & land. Else, I would of opted for 2-5 acres and build my super awesome wood working shop instead of using my 2 car garage.