Hi I am considering mounting a LPR capable camera from Andy to a tree about 25 ft from my house. I have it already so the decision to mount in the corner under the eaves or the tree comes up and the tree is much better in line with the road which is about 100 ft. from the house . I have read alot about surge or lightning supressors. I am asking if there is a certain device used here, how many do I need and where to put them.Do I need to bury the cable in conduit, or can I use the burial ready Cat 6 on Amazon and elsewhere? How risky is it to run cable without using the devices? Because none of the ones attached to the building have them. Possibly being in the ground is the big concern? I have seen some YT videos but would like an opinion from here. I was thinking a camo lens covering for photography to blend in if I do the tree mount. I assume if it is mounted on the house it is not as vunerable , but then there are 8 others! I do use a CyberPower UPS if that matters.If I missed a page in Wiki or a thread please send me a link. Thanks
Mounting a LPR camera to a tree
- Thread starter Fishman57
- Start date
Parley
Known around here
After today I will have 3 cameras mounted in a tree, with one of them being an LPR camera. I ran burial ready Cat 6, but I ran it underground in 3/4" PVC conduit. Good thing I did because it was easier to add two more cable runs as it turned out. Do not use sharp turn 45 or 90 degree angles. Use pipe that has a nice radius to it, so that it is easy to pull and incase you want to add more in the future. When the cable exited the conduit at ground level and went up the tree, I wrapped it in 1/2" wide camouflage tape. I also wrapped the cameras in camouflage tape. Here is my latest rendition.
What cameras?
Good points about the bend radius. Long sweeps, not standard radius electrical elbows, are hard to come by, especially below 1-1/2" and are particularly expensive in ALL sizes these days.
If necessary, two inexpensive 45's can be connected together to provide the 90 degree turn and an acceptable radius. And don't forget to pull in a pull string with the direct burial or flooded burial CAT-5e/6 for the future!
Sybertiger
Known around here
I recently installed a cam on a tree. You can see it here. I ran direct burial through brown drip edge tubing underground and up the tree. No lightning suppression such as an optical coupler but I thought about it. I guess we shall see if lightning takes it out. I have a couple of other cams mounted on 4x4's outdoors so similar situation.
Thanks for your responses. I`m going to probably use 3/4 plastic pipe . I saw some in a lumber yard and the bends are not sharp.Probably $2 for bends and $10 for 10`. I`ll run multiple cables or at least some string.The camo tape is nice.I think I`ll need more like a gray tree bark camo color. Haven`t looked for it yet. So I guess you guys are not worrying about the lightning so much. I`ll probably give it a try. I`ll post here when I`m done.
You can take sprigs of leaves from the bush/tree you are mounting this to and hold it over whatever you want to camouflage and spray paint it. It's not hard at all with a tiny bit of practice.
Here's a youtube:
I'm not sure if that's a good one, but you'll get the point.
And the thing with camouflage is that it doesn't take much to hide something. You just need colors close to the foliage and something to break up the outline of the equipment.
I have had cameras in trees for several years on my property, no issues with storms. The only issue I have had are the so called water proof connectors (I have tried several types). eventually water does get in, and may corrode the cat5/6 ends causing a short. I have now been siliconing them as well for a water tight connection. My LPR is mounted on a tree along my 300ft driveway (pointed towards the house so I can capture the back license plate with less light interference)
3 steps to waterproofing someone showed me:
- good dielectric. I use NO-OX-ID A Special
- good electrical tape:
- then go over the connection with silicon tape
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Now that you mentioned this a friend did his Jeep the same way . It came out really well. Thanks !
I do use dielectric and tape, and all of my cameras are under the eaves so somewhat proctected. I never used silicone tape but I`ll get some .Thanks
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NO-OX isn't an ordinary dielectric.
Here's something from their marketing:
NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the best long term rust prevention coating ever developed. After World War I, NO-OX-ID was used as a military grease by the navy to put the majority of the naval fleet into "mothballs". The propulsion machinery was protected with NO-OX-ID military grease compounds they called cosmoline. All of the original 50 destroyers, sent to Great Britain prior to the United States entry into World War II, were protected with NO-OX-ID. When taken out of mothballs 20 years later, they were found to be in perfect condition.
Here's something from their marketing:
NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the best long term rust prevention coating ever developed. After World War I, NO-OX-ID was used as a military grease by the navy to put the majority of the naval fleet into "mothballs". The propulsion machinery was protected with NO-OX-ID military grease compounds they called cosmoline. All of the original 50 destroyers, sent to Great Britain prior to the United States entry into World War II, were protected with NO-OX-ID. When taken out of mothballs 20 years later, they were found to be in perfect condition.
Don't you put the 3M 33+ electrical tape on last and OVER the self-fusing silicone tape?
That's what I do...the self-fusing (self-vulcanizing) rubber or silicone tape is the key to a great waterproof seal but the application of an overlapping layer of 3M #33+ or #88 accelerates the curing process.
FWIW, this is my process ==>> here.
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I only did 1 or 2 completely. And I do think I followed your process. It's been a little while and I was going from memory...Which isn't the best when I only handled 1 or 2 a year ago...I have to look at the 568B cheat sheet I made when making ethernet patch cables, still.
Which way is better? That self sealing silicone instantly bonds when it touches itself. I would guess it'll cure in a hot attic pretty quick either way.
When I do finalize my installation maybe I should try some with the silicon on the inside and some with the electrical tape on the inside. My guess is that it'll take so long to see problems either way that it'll be a wash especially since I'm using NO-OX-ID.
I pull the 33+ tight and overlapped half the width of it, it keeps the silicone tape from attracting dust and dirt...IMO.
That's a good point. That silicone is a magnet for dust and dirt...Maybe you should clean your attic?...I pull the 33+ tight and overlapped half the width of it, it keeps the silicone tape from attracting dust and dirt...IMO.
Kidding aside, that 33+ is good stuff but I imagine it will break down quicker than the silicone. By quicker, it will probably be 20 to 30 years I would guess, unless there's some UV light getting to it somehow.
Maybe I should send this question to Todd, the guy who runs the Project Farm youtube channel. Though this is too much of a niche type thing for him to look at.
The reason I use the 33+ last is that it applies pressure to accelerate the fusing/curing of what's under it, either self -fusing rubber tape or self-fusing silicone tape. After a few weeks it could likely fall off and wouldn't cause a negative effect to the overall integrity of the process, as it did its job and now what's under it should do it's job.
Besides I don't plan on being on this spinning orb for another 20 or 30 years....I'll consider myself blessed (even more than I am now) if I make it 10 more.