Mounting to brick wall newbie question

[MooseGeneral]

Hi all
I'm graduating from a wifi Tapo camera looking out my window pane, to an exterior PoE camera, specifically the EmpireTech IPC-Color4K-T180. I wanted something that can give me a good overview up and down the street in front of my townhouse without multiple cameras. I've tested this one by just holding it outside my window and I'm happy with the coverage and the image quality in both day and night.

My intent is to use a flat cable under the window sash, rather than drilling through a brick wall. If the flat cable fails I guess I can always do the wall drilling later on, but I'd like to avoid it.

My main outstanding question is actually mounting to the wall. Photos and details below:
Here is the wall. The cable will go in the window on the right, so the camera should be mounted somewhere between the two windows, ideally within arms reach of an open window if needed.
Is this just as simple as a hammer drill and some tapcon's directly into the brick surface? Or do I need to get more sophisticated than that? I am a little concerned about the uneven texture of the brick.


Back of the EmpireTech wall mount bracket

 

[looney2ns]

A lot easier to drill in the mortar joint.
Keep the flat cable as short as possible, they aren't a truly certified ethernet cable, or you'll have problems.

 

[TonyR]

+1^^^.
I'd go with 1/4" wedge anchors, like this "Red Head", use in mortar joint or in brick.

 

[MooseGeneral]

A lot easier to drill in the mortar joint.
Keep the flat cable as short as possible, they aren't a truly certified ethernet cable, or you'll have problems.

I've read this advice before but I don't understand what to do with the spacing of the bracket - I could attach two of the screws to a mortar joint, but not all four, since they are only a couple of inches apart. Does that mean I should do two into the mortar and two into the brick surface?

 

[d5775927]

I've read this advice before but I don't understand what to do with the spacing of the bracket - I could attach two of the screws to a mortar joint, but not all four, since they are only a couple of inches apart. Does that mean I should do two into the mortar and two into the brick surface?

Cut a piece of wood, mount the wood first, then attach the mount to the wood.
This is my idea, but i'm not too good with this stuff as well.

 

[TonyR]

I've read this advice before but I don't understand what to do with the spacing of the bracket - I could attach two of the screws to a mortar joint, but not all four, since they are only a couple of inches apart. Does that mean I should do two into the mortar and two into the brick surface?

I'd use the 1/4" wedge anchors for the top two bolts in the mortar, and even use smaller, sleeve type anchors on the bottom two that are in the brick.
I figure the two on the bottom won't have as much "pull" force applied as will the top two due to the lever design of the bracket.

 

[looney2ns]

If done properly, all you need is two into the mortar.

I certainly would NOT add a piece of wood to the mix for it to simply rot in short order.

 

[Flintstone61]

Tapcons, when purchased with the "right size" masonary bit in the box, tend to run a just smidge tight, making it easy to snap the head off the tap con if things are too snug.
If you go with tapcons, do a little bit of Bit wiggle reaming once you achieve your depth. this creates a looser fit ( your not anchoring a hand rail to a sidewalk) and less likely to break off.
(going in or removing later)
Looney has point about the wood. Of course you could try something like this.

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20744480304&gbraid=0AAAAAD_hg_JUAEDr7HCb_dqf_GjmtIblH&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmqPDBhCAARIsADorxIYo7vqceyDzP87C8LfFcfgOXPskpPQe1KEZ8KSdoTUXTU3ktk9Hhl0aAsMNEALw_wcB