Multiple switch control

SIR VEYOR

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HI All,

It looks like I’ll be adding a doorbell cam, and Reolink seems to be the preferred option here.

Since I’ll be making an order, I’ve got a few lights and switches that I want to link together. A couple outdoor lights, lights around the garage, maybe the basement, etc. I just need the functionality of pairing 2-3 switches together. Rewiring isn’t an option. I’ve seen a few wireless switches that can be used (Ask this Old House), with a wireless Hub option In addition to the “programmable/pairable” switch.

Any recommendations on which units to get? Especially since the automated might grow beyond paired light switches. I’d rather plan now and grow incrementally. Since this forum doesn’t get much action, a new thread to see what newer products might be available seemed a good option vs dead thread revival.

thanks, SV
 

Sybertiger

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For wireless I started using Shelly devices for light switches and switched outlets because it allows me to use my existing switches and outlets so they look the same throughout the house.


I have two of the following and they reside in two different 3-gang boxes (switches for lights/fans) on opposite sides of the house.


I have one of the following that controls a typical outlet.


I have one of the following that controls a device plugged into an outlet. I had to use this type because that particular outlet is in the garage and uses a steel box instead of plastic and the steel blocks the WiFi signal from reaching the previously mentioned type of Shelly device.

 
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Sybertiger

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I've been using Samsung SmartThings home automation for many years with included support for Z-wave and Zigbee devices. I have 2 light switches and 2 outlets (GE/Enbrighten brand --- similar to Lutron) that are Z-wave which is my preference. However, it's my understanding the new SmartThings hubs have dropped Z-wave support. The Shelly devices are 2.5GHz WiFi and SmartThings allows integration of the Shelly app but the Shelly devices do not need any kind of smart hub. And yes, these devices are controllable by Alexa and Google voice commands.

While I do not have a doorbell cam per se I believe that Reolink is preferred because it's the only reasonable priced one that allows use of a hardwired ethernet connection. All others are either overpriced or WiFi only. With that in mind it's probably the only time on here that anyone will recommend a Reolink product. Since I work from home I prefer that NO ONE ring the doorbell or knock on the door so I have just a small cam at the door but I get push notifications when someone walks up to the door. In fact, you can barely see a note on the left side of the following pic covering the doorbell button :rofl: telling people "Please do not ring the doorbell or knock on the door, instead leave a note". It works wonders to get rid of all the solicitations.

1702569092882.png
 
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Ri22o

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I used SmartThings for a couple years for my home automation and wireless mesh. I ended up moving away from it when they dropped WebCore support. I settled on Hubitat for smart home automation/control and couldn't be happier.

I use mostly Zwave devices, with some Zigbee. There is the option in Hubitat to create mirror rules. I use this to create "3-way circuits" where I have a smart switch on the circuit for the light and then another switch elsewhere that is only wired with power. When you set them as mirrors they both control the same light, even though they are not both wired to it. There is a small delay due to polling, but it's not horrible.

If you are looking to possibly do more later, then look into Hubitat.
 

Sybertiger

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Not to hijack the OPs thread but I did briefly look at Hubitat as a possible directlon to move to when my ST hub dies. It seems that Samsung got out of the hub business or so I thought but now I see something called SmartThings Station being sold. Maybe Samsung can't make up their minds. The original reason I went with SmartThings is because there were so many choices at the time but I figured some of those home automation companies would be bought up then phased out, go belly up or not continue to grow their offerings. I figured Samsung was the 800 lb gorilla and would survive. It does turn out that many over the years have gone out of business and Samsung is still in it. I'm sure more shakeups will continue to happen.
 

Ri22o

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Not to hijack the OPs thread but I did briefly look at Hubitat as a possible directlon to move to when my ST hub dies. It seems that Samsung got out of the hub business or so I thought but now I see something called SmartThings Station being sold. Maybe Samsung can't make up their minds. The original reason I went with SmartThings is because there were so many choices at the time but I figured some of those home automation companies would be bought up then phased out, go belly up or not continue to grow their offerings. I figured Samsung was the 800 lb gorilla and would survive. It does turn out that many over the years have gone out of business and Samsung is still in it. I'm sure more shakeups will continue to happen.
The issue I ran into was compatibility between hubs. They would release new hubs that would not work with older hubs, so when one took a dump I had to buy a whole new set and then it was a hassle to merge anything over. I ended up never merging anything over and had one set of hubs for automations and one for wireless mesh.

Ultimately I went with Hubitat and Ubiquiti APs.
 

TonyR

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+1 to @Sybertiger 's recommendation regarding Shelly. Three of the main pro's I can think about them are:
  • Shelly 1, Shelly PLus 1, Shelly 1PM and Shelly 2PM (and possibly more ) can be had in a UL-listed version
  • No hub needed!
  • Work with HTTP and MQTT commands allowing interfacing with Blue Iris for simple I/O!
  • EDIT 12/15 0924 CT: Work remotely via free app and Shelly Cloud OR no cloud, just on your Wi-Fi/LAN.
 
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The Automation Guy

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Whatever you choose, make sure it does not need internet/cloud services to work. Many of the "consumer grade" automation devices require cloud servers to setup and work correctly. I never want my automation devices communicating on the internet.

Personally I have landed on using WiFi switches that are compatible with Tasmota. Most of the consumer grade WiFi switches do require a cloud server, but Tasmota is a third party firmware that strips away all the "crap" and adds a lot of usable features too. One of those added features allows you to program the switches to communicate with each other without requiring a "hub" or outside automation controller (although you can use those as well). For example, the ceiling lights in my great room are actually controlled by two different and independent switches. I have programmed the switches so they automatically turn on/off the "other" switch anytime one switch is used. To the end user, it appears that the entire ceiling is controlled by either switch which is exactly what I wanted. Similarly, my outside front porch light and the light over my garage door where are on different switches. I have programmed them now to that turning one on/off will turn on/off the other as well. This type of functionality is programmed into the switch's firmware, so even if my larger home automation system goes down for some reason, those switches continue to work as programmed.

You can buy switches with Tasmota already installed on it which is clearly the easier thing to do. Flashing/installing Tasmota yourself is certainly a "nerd" thing to do and while it is not difficult to do, I can see where a non-techie person might get frustrated with the process.

Here is the Tasmota site.

Here is an example of a switch you can buy with Tasmota already installed (direct from the manufacturer - not some third party person trying to resell devices that they installed Tasmota on). These are actually the switches I use in my home, but I purchased them prior to the manufacturer selling them with Tasmota already installed which meant I had to flash Tasmota on it myself. Martin Jerry has lots of different switch options. Dimmer, non-dimmer, three wire, single pole, etc. I've used a mixture of all the devices in my home.
Single Pole Non-Dimming Single Pole Dimming
PS - I thought I might add a little reasoning why I decided on WiFi switches. First, WiFi is the most widely accepted household wireless communication method. While there are other automation protocols like ZWave and Zigbee, those protocols tend to come and go regularly (spoiler alert). WiFi is not going anywhere, so I know the backbone of my communication system will always be available. Second, these switches are relatively inexpensive. The first switches I bought for my great room where $100-150 each (I needed three). While those switches were worth the cost to fix my great room situation, I wasn't about to convert the rest of my switches over to that technology. It's a good thing I didn't either because the manufacture of those switches has disappeared and no one is using that automation protocol anymore (going back to point #1). When one of the switched eventually died, I had to change to another system which is when I decided to go with Tasmota. It wasn't around (or at least not mature enough) the first time I was researching smart lighting options (which was probably 15 years ago). I've been very satisfied with my choice and I've had those switches installed at least 4 years now. Now it is true that I cannot guarantee that Tasmota won't eventually die out too. But at least there are a lot of devices currently compatible with Tasmota and even manufactures are offering devices with it already installed (making it more main stream than DIY flashing). Plus, at the price I am paying per switch it's not the end of the world. I've sent less to add smart lighting to about 1/2 of my house than I did for those 3 switches (and USB programming stick) initially.
 
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SIR VEYOR

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Great suggestions, thank you!

I’ll have to look at Shelly and Tasmota a bit more. Are there any forums for those?

It’s 80’s construction, one of the first iterations of R2000 homes; it’s likely metal switch boxes and other inconvenient signal blocking things. So the independent switches from ToH May win out, they probably have bigger transmitters in them.

The initial switches are close enough together that Shelly BT or regular WiFi “Should” work. Since they IoT stuff, can you block ports and such, or do they just not have the capability to do that? Essentially IoT dumb, and don’t worry about them?

If my wife is going to use her phone on them, I‘d rather not have to make her change networks on her phone; tech isn’t her hobby…

The power does go out, so never having to access the programming/setup again is essential. Most probably are capable of that. For initial testing (and wife approval), it’ll have to function like regular switches initially.
 

TonyR

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