My NVR is down to three cmeras

[garycrist]

I guess wire wrap is out too?

 

[tangent]

For the kind of soldering work I do that thing would be in the trash in less than five minutes.

They do work for through hole stuff reasonably well, especially when paired with a foot pedal controlled aquarium pump.

I have access to two Metcal soldering stations and just bought a new one last month, plus we have a variety of differnt tips to choose from which is really nice. We also have a microscope with LED lighting and a Hakko hot air torch which is a must when removing multi-pin SMT chips but you can easily mess up a PCB board or melt plastic connectors with it if you aren't careful. Sometimes I'll make heat shields with silver tape to protect surrounding components or use liquid solder mask, but I like the silver tape better.

I have a cheaper Oki station (got a very good deal) and a generic hakko knockoff, an underwhelming hot air station, and a toaster oven with homemade pid control. Handsoldering anything smaller than 0203 isn't very pleasant. I need a better microscope.

I guess wire wrap is out too?

I regrettably still have a box of wire wrap tools and prototypes (from 15 years ago ).

 

[Starglow]

This is what I liked on simple, 2-sided boards 70's through 80's.

https://www.amazon.com/EDSYN-The-Original-Deluxe-SOLDAPULLT/dp/B006GOKVKI?th=1

The PCB boards and components from that ERA were built tough and could take a lot more heat before damaging anything but the PCB boards of today are cheaply made and consist of mostly SMT parts so it doesn't take much to damage the board or rip off a solder pad. Those things can usually be repaired but a simple ten minute soldering job could end up taking much longer if a pad gets damaged. I have a pretty good track record but for most people who regularly do soldering it's gonna happen to them sooner or later..it's just the nature of the beast.

 

[tangent]

The PCB boards and components from that ERA were built tough and could take a lot more heat before damaging anything but the PCB boards of today are cheaply made and consist of mostly SMT parts so it doesn't take much to damage the board or rip off a solder pad. Those things can usually be repaired but a simple ten minute soldering job could end up taking much longer if a pad gets damaged. I have a pretty good track record but for most people who regularly do soldering it's gonna happen to them sooner or later..it's just the nature of the beast.

It's a world of difference soldering different quality PCBs isn't it. Sometimes I wonder if the boards are even FR4 (I know some aren't, but I'm talking about ones that are supposed to be). Those old boards were probably mostly 2oz, but it seems like the soldermask was better too.

I'd suggest @D!ngo practice on some old / broken electronics first so they have a better chance of success.

 

[Starglow]

They do work for through hole stuff reasonably well, especially when paired with a foot pedal controlled aquarium pump.

I have a cheaper Oki station (got a very good deal) and a generic hakko knockoff, an underwhelming hot air station, and a toaster oven with homemade pid control. Handsoldering anything smaller than 0203 isn't very pleasant. I need a better microscope.

I regrettably still have a box of wire wrap tools and prototypes.

Yeah....the Metcal doesn't really handle large through-hole parts very well because it's designed more for small SMT components. I can solder most SMT component sizes under the microscope, but some people don't have a steady hand and can't do it. Not sure if you've seen these but there are some pretty neat soldering stations out now that are low cost for occasional use. Wire wrap eh...? That technology goes way way back!

https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-Station-Multiple-Functions/dp/B07RY5XWVG/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.97527784-1102-40e6-925d-b95bb0c9f9e6%3Aamzn1.sym.97527784-1102-40e6-925d-b95bb0c9f9e6&crid=1I91S64Y1OD76&cv_ct_cx=soldering+station&keywords=soldering+station&pd_rd_i=B07RY5XWVG&pd_rd_r=3d923343-d3e2-4db8-8f67-1351834308a4&pd_rd_w=9xUEW&pd_rd_wg=TsrEl&pf_rd_p=97527784-1102-40e6-925d-b95bb0c9f9e6&pf_rd_r=ES9P073EEE7WMW8CRMTE&qid=1706588044&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=soldering+station%2Caps%2C166&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

 

[tangent]

That technology goes way way back!

Yeah, it's a bit disturbing that I had to use it in 2008.

 

[TonyR]

Probably half of the boards I worked on had the conformal coating (a thin polymeric film) applied to the PCB in order to protect the board and its components from the environment and corrosion. It had to be gently scraped off around the repair area then brushed or sprayed back on when the repair was done and the board/circuit tested.

All the stuff from 3M such as Opticom Traffic Signal Preemption Systems and Canoga Vehicle Detection systems had really thick conformal coating, like the board had been dipped it it and hung up to dry.

What I hated about it was you had to use a sharp 'scope or meter probe during troubleshooting and had to dig in just to get a reading at one point, making the troubleshooting and subsequent repair long and tedious as compared to non-coated boards/components.

 

[D!ngo]

What you want to use is a flux pen like this one from Amazon.. I use Kester brand for work but they're more expensive. For de-soldering you take the cap off the flux pen and apply the tip to whatever solder joint your removing and press up/down several times which will dispense the flux. Then you take the solder wick and place it over the now fluxed solder joint and then apply the hot soldering iron tip on top of the wick until the solder melts which will be absorbed into the wick. The flux evaporates quickly so you may need to repeat the process several times until the soler is completely removed and/or the part is released. To re-solder you install the new cap leads through the via holes and then apply flux right before you solder the joints. If you don't have any flux remover you can use a little isopropyl alchohol to clean any remaining flux off the board but it isn't 100% necessary. You might want to watch some Youtube videos on soldering techniques.

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Tabbing-Welding-Maintenance/dp/B0953NGKXR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=flux+pen&qid=1706581584&sr=8-5#customerReviews

For some reason, I just can not get the solder to go up the wick. I did as you said; put flux on the tip, placed the wick on top and put the iron on the wick. But the solder would not melt. I set my iron from 400F to 750F, but the flux would melt and smoke but the solder never melted. I've held my iron for as long as 20 seconds to no avail.

I don't know if the flux I'm using has anything to do with it. I bought this flux before seeing your suggestion on the flux pen;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KJRCYRH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I even applied more solder onto the tip but the new solder just balled up and never melted the solder that was on the tip. I have the solder remover with the bulb like the one on Gary's post but it never melted solder either. I'm baffled...

 

[Starglow]

For some reason, I just can not get the solder to go up the wick. I did as you said; put flux on the tip, placed the wick on top and put the iron on the wick. But the solder would not melt. I set my iron from 400F to 750F, but the flux would melt and smoke but the solder never melted. I've held my iron for as long as 20 seconds to no avail.

I don't know if the flux I'm using has anything to do with it. I bought this flux before seeing your suggestion on the flux pen;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KJRCYRH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I even applied more solder onto the tip but the new solder just balled up and never melted the solder that was on the tip. I have the solder remover with the bulb like the one on Gary's post but it never melted solder either. I'm baffled...

I have the Chip Quick flux as well and it's a bit thicker in body but should still work. The flux is applied to the solder joint on the board and not to the soldering iron tip. If the solder is balling up that usually means the soldering iron tip needs to be cleaned. A dirty soldering iron tip won't work very well. Use a brass sponge and tip tinner shown below. For through hole parts you'll want the iron to be really hot or the solder won't melt.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltronics-FBA_TMT-TC-2-Lead-Tinner-Container/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3JWFIXHB53B2G&keywords=solder+tip+cleaner&qid=1706845321&s=hi&sprefix=solder+tip+cleaner%2Ctools%2C163&sr=1-4

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLACCBSH-02-Soldering-Cleaner-Silicone/dp/B08FQBS97L/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.92181fe7-c843-4c1b-b489-84c087a93895%3Aamzn1.sym.92181fe7-c843-4c1b-b489-84c087a93895&crid=3JWFIXHB53B2G&cv_ct_cx=solder+tip+cleaner&keywords=solder+tip+cleaner&pd_rd_i=B08FQBS97L&pd_rd_r=fe1085c5-f78b-4aa0-b51e-6236faae657b&pd_rd_w=YM73p&pd_rd_wg=NvqiI&pf_rd_p=92181fe7-c843-4c1b-b489-84c087a93895&pf_rd_r=6QCN63ZRGXNQQV8681VV&qid=1706845385&s=hi&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=solder+tip+cleaner%2Ctools%2C163&sr=1-1-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

 

[tangent]

 

[Starglow]

Nice videos but I don't agree with some of the techniques they demonstrated. Not all soldering wick has built in flux and it's just the plain wick. I would never take a screwdriver to break free solder because that's a sure fire way to damage the board and just isn't the proper way to remove solder. The soldering irons they used are not very common and are too large for small SMT component soldering. I've learned the hard way that solder suckers can and will suck the copper pads right off the board so I only use them for very specific soldering tasks where I know they won't damage the board.

 

[TonyR]

I had good luck with the EDSYN SoldaPullit but was careful to not overheat the area and did it in stages, sometimes final cleanup with wick. But these were high quality Mil-Spec boards, I can see where cheap boards could require more care and/or a different technique.

 

[tangent]

Nice videos but I don't agree with some of the techniques they demonstrated. Not all soldering wick has built in flux and it's just the plain wick. I would never take a screwdriver to break free solder because that's a sure fire way to damage the board and just isn't the proper way to remove solder. The soldering irons they used are not very common and are too large for small SMT component soldering. I've learned the hard way that solder suckers can and will suck the copper pads right off the board so I only use them for very specific soldering tasks where I know they won't damage the board.

These are some of the better videos I've seen on the subject.

I agree, I'd avoid breaking the component free with a screwdriver. While harder to desolder, plated vias are more durable. I've mainly lifted pads desoldering single sided boards. I've generally been able to just use a soldering iron and heat the lead of the part while pulling / wiggling, but applying the iron for extra time can result in damage to the board. When that fails, my go to if (I don't have hot air) is a metal T-pin (for sewing) and some pliers, solder bonds poorly to these., Apply heat and poke the lead out with the t-pin held by pliers.

The OP isn't doing fine surface mount soldering, they're trying to replace through hole electrolytic caps on a 2 or 4 layer board with plated vias and don't seem to have much soldering experience.

For some reason, I just can not get the solder to go up the wick. I did as you said; put flux on the tip, placed the wick on top and put the iron on the wick. But the solder would not melt. I set my iron from 400F to 750F, but the flux would melt and smoke but the solder never melted. I've held my iron for as long as 20 seconds to no avail.

I don't know if the flux I'm using has anything to do with it. I bought this flux before seeing your suggestion on the flux pen; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KJRCYRH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I even applied more solder onto the tip but the new solder just balled up and never melted the solder that was on the tip. I have the solder remover with the bulb like the one on Gary's post but it never melted solder either. I'm baffled...

What kind of tip to you have on your iron? Is it a conical tip? Conical tips don't work that well compared to other styles of tip that are better at conducting heat where it needs to go. If you have one, I'd use a small chisel tip.
Don't apply flux to the tip of the iron! Apply flux to the joint your working on. Apply solder to the tip of the iron. If you're still having trouble, scrape a bit with an exacto knife and see if a conformal coating flakes off.

I usually use a Kester 186 flux pen for this type of work. The flux you bought should work (it's slightly better suited for surface mount work) and even though it says 'no clean' i'd clean it with some 90+% isopropyl when you're done.

Practice on something you don't care about. If you don't have something broken lying around, but something cheap at good will to practice on.

 

[Starglow]

For the through hole caps I'll just grab them with one hand and gently pull while heating the solder joints on the bottom side with the other hand and they'll usually slide right out. The Hakko air torch works really well for this. Then I'll clean up the vias and solder in the new caps.

 

[tangent]

Also @D!ngo, buy your capacitors from an electronics supplier like Digi-Key or Mouser, not places like Amazon or Ebay.

If you need help finding a suitable replacement for some of the capacitors, let us know.

 

[Starglow]

Also @D!ngo, buy your capacitors from an electronics supplier like Digi-Key or Mouser, not places like Amazon or Ebay.

If you need help finding a suitable replacement for some of the capacitors, let us know.

During the pandemic there were black market suppliers selling counterfeit electronic component parts...so yes you have to be careful.