Need to replace entire system for LPR and overview

Thanks, all of my previous photography knowledge is in SLR and DSLR photography, never did video. So bitrate was not in my knowledge bank to know if I was high or low.

When you say FPS and iframes matching, I am trying to get a key of 1.00, correct? Because I initially matched the numbers, but then today noticed my key was 0.50 on the two bullets and I adjusted them. Just want to make sure that's right. Anyway, for this camera, the numbers do match, and I do have 1.00 for them.

I was on H265, changed it to H264. Bumped the bitrate up to 8192, codec was already off. New still looks pretty much the same.

Maybe I just am not actually exporting the main stream? This looks suspiciously like substream video. This must be a BI issue from my settings. I think I need to do some reading on BI.
 

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This is the settings for that camera. I thought that because dual streams was checked, I would get both and export the main stream. Am I way off on this?
 

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Yes, a key of 1.00 is what you want.

That sure does look like substream. It will record substream until motion is triggered and then it switches to mainstream. So is this from an alert/trigger - did the camera really trigger for this event or did it not trigger and that is why you are pulling the substream because it didn't trigger?

For kicks, change continuous+triggered to continuous for the moment so it records just mainstream and let's see what happens.

What does the camera image look like live view? Because that camera is way more capable than that image shows.
 
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It was a triggered event, because all cars are basically triggering right now. I have not fine tuned anything. In fact, I will likely leave it on continuous anyway, because I don't see myself having the time to work on it much in the next 4 or 5 days days. So I was really hoping to sit at the computer and get this dialed in this morning. This is how far I got!

Before I saw your reply I, did exactly that. That camera has been on continuous recording since. Here is a grab. It's a little better, but there is still so much glitchiness, especially behind the car. I guess this is ghosting I've read about.
 

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Oh, in live view, it kind of has waves of blurriness that shifts all over the place. Kind of like it's trying to focus, but it's not a depth of filed thing, it's more like patches shifting all over from clear to blurry. I just noticed it seems to have a direct relationship with the seconds on the clock overlay, shifting every second.
 
Something certainly isn't right in your settings.

For daytime drop the NR down like make 3D around 20 and 2D around 15.

Sounds like you are getting the pulsating effect. What is your FPS? You can knock that out by increasing the iframes and see if it impacts motion video.

Or force a shutter speed - try like 1/2000 or 1/4000 during the day and see if that knocks the pulsating out.
 
Looks like I forgot I had left the shutter at 1/4000 when I tried that before posting here today. Switched to auto, its the same.

3D NR just has an on/off toggle on this camera, no slider. I checked the firmware, it says it's up to date. I don't have any options for adjusting 2D.
 
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Actually it's very easy to check, just visit the camera from its IP address on the Browser, not via BI, if the video on the browser is good, then the BI setting issues.
The pic looks on substream.
 
Yeah, I forget to compare that. It looks exactly the same logged into the camera. The other, identical camera has a better picture, but once there is motion, everything becomes a blurry mess.

I read somewhere that people reported settings needing a couple saves and a refresh to verify. I just noticed that some of my changes reverted. Maybe I fiddled with it and my settings weren't saving part of the time. Certainly not every time, but enough that the adjustments I made didn't stick. I double saved and refreshed to veryify, and the picture looks much better. However, the sun is going down here and it's going to be hard to see if it is much better until tomorrow. It looks better, though.
 
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Okay, so it's much better. I switched to 1/4000, which switch it to black and white, but I can capture good stills now. Will have to see how it does tomorrow in the daylight. I think it will be fine now, but I have a lot more work to do on this system. Thanks, guys!
 

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Make sure you are doing all the changes in Internet Explorer. Not Edge, Not Chrome with the IE extension, plain ole Internet Explorer that is baked into Windows 10. You do not even need to download it.

There are many threads here demonstrating how sensitive some of these cameras can be to needing to be setup in Explorer.

Then many of us will hit save 3 times and hit refresh to ensure it saved.

And a 1/4000 shutter will give you black at night, so maybe switch it to manual shutter 0-8.33ms.
 
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can pulsation be from the PAL NTSC setting? or the 50Hz- 60Hz setting?
 
That's odd, I don't think I've come across a PAL/NTSC setting on this camera yet. Flickering, though I'm not sure that's what I would have called it, seems to have been solved by wittaj's settings recommendations.

wittaj, I am taking a bit of a gamble on your shutter settings and seeing how it will work in the morning. I trust your wisdowm, so it's not a big gamble. I also made a profile for the LPR camera to switch just after daylight back to color. Hoping that automated my need to check it every day.

I was accessing this camera on my Mac. So I will try IE instead. Though my settings seem to be holding for now.

Will let y'all know how it works tomorrow.
 
What kind of monitor are you viewing it with? maybe not a ntsc / pal setting on camera GUI, but perhaps a 50Hz/60Hz setting? might be listed with menu drop down that has Outdoor, Auto, etc.
 
Monitor is a Dell U2415. I don't have 50 or 60 selcted, it's on default of outdoor. But the flickering is gone now. All those adjustments resolved it. I think wittaj nailed it, H265 and bitrate.

Now that I have a sharper image (and shutter is working very well at the settings suggested, thank you), its really noisy. Again, the hDview cameras were not this noisy at all, but I don't suspect the camera. In photography, I would adjust my ISO at this point, but I don't know what the similar adjustment would be with digital video. This is very usable to me. If this was as good as it gets, I'd be okay with that. But I would like to improve it if possible.
 

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These two links below may help you out:

Common issues with camera image

Here is a quick guide to what might go wrong with the image of your cctv camera, and how to fix this. MOTION BLUR: This is probably the most common issue, new camera owners run into. Many times on this forum I've seen posts like: "I bought a set of cameras recently. The image looks great on...
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Did the latest firmware give you the ability to change the NR? If so, start adjusting it until you find the balance of noise versus blur.

Also, these tend to run a little sharp, so you can probably take that down a little as well, which will help with the noise.

But you can definitely get better with that camera.

But keep in mind you did digitally zoom in to that photo and none of these cameras do digital zoom well, only the ones in TV and movies give clearer images the more you zoom digitally LOL.

With surveillance cameras, digital zoom is using an algorithm to fill in the missing pieces as you digitally zoom in, which will increase noise and blotchy effects, sometimes more in certain field of views.
 
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